GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (26 Viewers)

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I wish we could get the Japanese Panasonic batteries here in the US. When my original battery dies I would like to attempt to rebuild it. I have been slowly replacing all my wet lead acid batteries with the AGM, Duralast platinum's, but in the past year or so the Platinum line is going away from the AGM. The AGM are nice because they don't leak out and rust your rig.
Yea, thats why I put Odysseys in both the GX and the 4Runner
 
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Just a heads up, because of how much current they draw, whenever I use my winch, I ALWAYS am running my engine, even if for a quick pull.
Same with my onboard air compressor. It's "only" drawing 40-45A but it definitely runs quicker/faster with the engine on.

Another reason I want to get a big NoCo jump pack is to avoid having to fit a aux battery somewhere when I do add a winch. Much easier to run the engine when winching (presumably very infrequent) and have the jump pack ready in case it further drains the battery as a OE alternator definitely isn't going to keep up with a 200A winch draw.
 
Same with my onboard air compressor. It's "only" drawing 40-45A but it definitely runs quicker/faster with the engine on.

Another reason I want to get a big NoCo jump pack is to avoid having to fit a aux battery somewhere when I do add a winch. Much easier to run the engine when winching (presumably very infrequent) and have the jump pack ready in case it further drains the battery as a OE alternator definitely isn't going to keep up with a 200A winch draw.
Yep, forgot to mention the onboard air, always have the engine running for that too! Especially when airing up my 35" tires from 10 psi to 40 psi.
Also suggest an upgraded alternator:
Start at Post #352: Builds - R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r-m-2013-gx-460-overland-build.1104719/page-18#post-14649081
 
Same with my onboard air compressor. It's "only" drawing 40-45A but it definitely runs quicker/faster with the engine on.

Another reason I want to get a big NoCo jump pack is to avoid having to fit a aux battery somewhere when I do add a winch. Much easier to run the engine when winching (presumably very infrequent) and have the jump pack ready in case it further drains the battery as a OE alternator definitely isn't going to keep up with a 200A winch draw.
I was able to start from a totally flat battery with a NoCo 40, but definitely recommend at least a 45 and check charge every 60-90 days.
 
I was able to start from a totally flat battery with a NoCo 40, but definitely recommend at least a 45 and check charge every 60-90 days.
I'll probably save up and splurge on a 150 so it has multiple starts in it. And charge it at each oil change.
 
I'll probably save up and splurge on a 150 so it has multiple starts in it. And charge it at each oil change.
When I did that from dead start it didn't actually register as being discharged, it still showed as fully charged. I think the constraint isn't capacity as much as current delivery, as it did turn over a bit slower than I would prefer.
 
Installed my winch and swapped out the trash OEM foglights for some Diode Dynamic pods with the Ronin Metal brackets yesterday. Winch is one of the new OVS SCAR winches which means I may be one of the first people with one. Install was easy since I already have a front bumper with a winch tray but there was a period where we were sitting in my buddy's garage thinking "that was too easy...normally something dumb goes terribly wrong".
 
Installed my winch and swapped out the trash OEM foglights for some Diode Dynamic pods with the Ronin Metal brackets yesterday. Winch is one of the new OVS SCAR winches which means I may be one of the first people with one. Install was easy since I already have a front bumper with a winch tray but there was a period where we were sitting in my buddy's garage thinking "that was too easy...normally something dumb goes terribly wrong".

Pics banan!
 
I had my last meeting with a client yesterday as we wrapped up a months long project. We were chatting about my electric car and "range anxiety" and I said, "if I ever have to go more than 300mi in a day I'll just take my V8 Lexus" and his ears perked up. Turns out, he's got a 2013 GX with some nice mods and off-road tchotchkes. We traded baby pictures on our phones and geeked out for a couple minutes. Kindred spirits, I guess. I just wish I'd broken that ice back in July when we first started working together.

Maybe I'll just lead with that from now on. "Hi. I'm K_Dub, a Lexus GX460 owner. Nice to meet you. How can we be of service?"
 
These worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D736H6N

They're readily programmable with a common TPMS programmer. I got my own so when I rotate tires I can reset tpms IDs in the ECU so tire 1 is always the front left etc. without having to go to a tire store. It's easy to do.

One of the screens on my scan gauge III is dedicated to tire pressures (and temps, just because it's interesting). It's handy to be able to see all the pressures to check if it's time to re-inflate them. When the TPMS tells me about a low tire, I'll know which one it is. I realize that I don't absolutely need this, I've been doing it the manual way for 40 years. But it's convenient.
 
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The newer TPMS systems have per-tire and actual PSI readouts, which has saved me from two slow leaks thus far. Both enabled me to save the tire and get it patched, rather than realizing much later.
 
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Although I don't have the factory TPMS/tire on my '13, I have the OBDII that I can change to monitor all 5 tires pressure and temperature.
I just have to have that display on to see it, not an easy dash display like factory.
 
Although I don't have the factory TPMS/tire on my '13, I have the OBDII that I can change to monitor all 5 tires pressure and temperature.
I just have to have that display on to see it, not an easy dash display like factory.
Wait, Temp also? My 23 only shows pressure.
 
You should still be able to see temperature on 20-23 with an OBD connection that 10-19 uses to display pressure & temp
 
These worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D736H6N

They're readily programmable with a common TPMS programmer. I got my own so when I rotate tires I can reset tpms IDs in the ECU so tire 1 is always the front left etc. without having to go to a tire store. It's easy to do.

One of the screens on my scan gauge III is dedicated to tire pressures (and temps, just because it's interesting). It's handy to be able to see all the pressures to check if it's time to re-inflate them. When the TPMS tells me about a low tire, I'll know which one it is. I realize that I don't absolutely need this, I've been doing it the manual way for 40 years. But it's convenient.
Thanks, appreciate the info
 

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