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The functionality is vastly superior to the victory one imo for the rear. Weights are within 5lbs with a single swing anyways. Not getting a front for a while. Plus I'm keeping air ride longer term with an airbag man setup eventually. Don't see a reason to convert to springs for me.
Which 255/80/17s are you running and how do you like them?
Oh yea the rear is much more functional and weight difference is negligible. I don’t run low offset wheels and the victory didn’t stick out as much. Also the tire carrier can be added at any time which is nice.
Yeah the front I haven't found a ton of options I really like. ExpOne is one I don't like. For me I'd likely be between the victory front, coastal or trailready4x4. But that's down the road. Need to re-do my whole suspension next year. 150k and the stock one is getting a bit tired.
Falken wildpeaks, so far so good. Little bit of road noise intrusion. I’m still at stock height and all I did was massage the rear part of the fender liner. The front part was cut out for the bumper.
Curious on a review of those. Was eyeing them, but really kinda leaning towards Koni 82 or raid's and not having to worry about replacing anything for another 100k. My control arms are all rusted as well, so it's not just a swap for me. Going to need to remove everything and repaint/coat it all while I'm there.
As far as I know you don't get proper full atrac until it's locked. It's way more capable locked and I wouldn't even play around in dirt with it unlocked after a few hairy experiences with others driving.
The Torsen will always go to the lowest common denominator of power or traction, even if the MTS intervenes I don't think it'll be enough.
Maybe the front is getting light when the rear tires hit the obstacle? When in doubt skinny peddle for the win. But this is why they make aftermarket cases to isolate axles. Front to climb rear to push.
I just hold light throttle and let ATRAC do it's thing.
Physics agrees with that statement. In the most recent case, my buddies in a 2nd gen Tacoma and an FJ were in front of me on a fairly big pair of steps. The Tacoma guy just sends it all the time because he's a lunatic, and the FJ was rear+center locked and crawled over with a little bump. The front tires of the GX had the least drama, but then I got hung up the longest on the rear axle. It does occur to me that the GX has an extra1500 pounds over those 2 which doesn't help. Maybe I just need more lightbars.
Tires and tire pressure can make worlds of difference, but I am pretty surprised what atrac can do with 35 psi Revo 3s
This was with my Pirelli ATs aired down to ~20psi and they are usually pretty sticky on rocks. I wonder if I should stiffen my rear shocks a couple clicks offroad. Maybe I need to trade some buttery smoothness to keep the rear axle + tire carrier hanging off the end from sinking down onto the bumpstops or something.
If you're doing that kind of off roading, you should be around 12 - 15 psi. Trust me, you tires can do it without popping a bead.
It's definitely the weight over the tires. You likely increased your vehicle weight close to GVWR between all the additions. The additional tire size isn't helping. I'd recommend going with a slight level for the front and an engine tune for the intermediate time. You can get better trans scheduling and a little extra umph down low this way. I've looked into Yotawerx and they have a pretty nice package for most people. A lot more focus on DD and trans scheduling that helps driveability over power/tq. For tires that small I wouldn't bother re-gearing until you're fully up in the 33.5"+ territory. I have rack, sliders, 32" and adding a rear bumper and it still drives good on highway. Around town there's some lashing points, but overall pretty stock still. The rear bumper might do something, but I doubt it since I have air ride in the rear to help with the weight.
