GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (13 Viewers)

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The problem is the algorithms on regular cruise are predictive and can't factor in hills and so forth properly. It basically sets a range that if you go under desired speed by X amount then you will add torque to achieve set speed, but on the other hand overspeed can't do anything on a downhill without active braking. Some other manufacturers allow a lot more underspeed which results in even more overspeed. The feedback loop isn't the best and it depends if they are looking at output shaft speed or wheel speed. Wheel speed is more accurate but older generations are not torque secure sensors meaning they can't use it per CARB regulations. And most newer vehicles with radar cruise or adaptive will brake for you if you do overspeed which results in changing the brakes more often. It's a complicated system lol. I drive a lot of various vehicles for my job and can attest that the Lexus is one of the better systems for a basic non-adaptive cruise control. It does what it is supposed to, but some people prefer more gradual control rather than reactive. My prior vehicle had a slow to react system and imo it was worse than a more reactive one. Both end up overspeed, just one doesn't downshift when you request it. Likely you could improve a lot of this with trans schedule changes since your cruise control is just a torque request PID and the reason it will or won't downshift is if you request enough torque. Just need to update the thresholds to get a smoother performance. They are set high for each gear for better fuel economy so you don't shift as frequently meaning you need to dig deeper into the pedal to get a downshift.
It's pretty annoying as Instrumentation Engineer. Like I just want to nudge the PID loop a little. 🤓
 
Ours is a low-profile collapsible and not really any higher than the GX. A 5K loaded normal camper would definitely be a bigger effort to tow! I can get 13-14 mpg towing ours on 2-lane backroads when I'm averaging 55 mpg or so and taking it easy. On the interstate it's more like 11.5 mpg.

Ahh got it! Ours is about as big as I would go, and mostly because of how tall it is and how flat the front is due to it being a hybrid so the front has to be flat for the bed to fold out. Otherwise I love the GX platform for what it is most of the time. There really isn't anything like it in the market, must like the Taco was for many years. Smallest body on frame, SRA, V8 on the market. It just ticks all the boxes for me, except for power here and there and the fuel economy.
 
It's pretty annoying as Instrumentation Engineer. Like I just want to nudge the PID loop a little. 🤓
You and I both. Next time you go on rolling hills engage cruise and embrace for a roller coaster. Makes you sick to your stomach :). It needs a filter on the PID for sure. They usually filter the speed signals, but still need a way to filter the request with room for error. Again, all SW driven unfortunately.
 
You and I both. Next time you go on rolling hills engage cruise and embrace for a roller coaster. Makes you sick to your stomach :). It needs a filter on the PID for sure. They usually filter the speed signals, but still need a way to filter the request with room for error. Again, all SW driven unfortunately.
Oh totally. In hilly areas, if I want better mpg I kick the cruise off. I am used to the opposite being the case
 
The problem is the algorithms on regular cruise are predictive and can't factor in hills and so forth properly. It basically sets a range that if you go under desired speed by X amount then you will add torque to achieve set speed, but on the other hand overspeed can't do anything on a downhill without active braking. Some other manufacturers allow a lot more underspeed which results in even more overspeed. The feedback loop isn't the best and it depends if they are looking at output shaft speed or wheel speed. Wheel speed is more accurate but older generations are not torque secure sensors meaning they can't use it per CARB regulations. And most newer vehicles with radar cruise or adaptive will brake for you if you do overspeed which results in changing the brakes more often. It's a complicated system lol. I drive a lot of various vehicles for my job and can attest that the Lexus is one of the better systems for a basic non-adaptive cruise control. It does what it is supposed to, but some people prefer more gradual control rather than reactive. My prior vehicle had a slow to react system and imo it was worse than a more reactive one. Both end up overspeed, just one doesn't downshift when you request it. Likely you could improve a lot of this with trans schedule changes since your cruise control is just a torque request PID and the reason it will or won't downshift is if you request enough torque. Just need to update the thresholds to get a smoother performance. They are set high for each gear for better fuel economy so you don't shift as frequently meaning you need to dig deeper into the pedal to get a downshift.
I think it largly depends on location, power, and speed too. Its a really palatable system for my 70mph flat land driving. But considering going to costco requires at least one mountain pass no matter which one I go to I just tend to pedal drive it the whole way.
 
I think it largly depends on location, power, and speed too. Its a really palatable system for my 70mph flat land driving. But considering going to costco requires at least one mountain pass no matter which one I go to I just tend to pedal drive it the whole way.
It's hit and miss in Iowa. Like you mentioned, if it's flat or consistent grades it's fine, but with rolling prairie it's ridiculous.
 
Chasing a loud clunking noise at the left front when going over any kind of bump/pothole. Spent some time poking around and found the passenger side link for the KDSS had loosened up so tightened that back down but the noise is still there. On my first 4th gen T4R it was bad upper ball joints on the UCAs, but they were beat to hell and Ironman parts on my GX only have maybe 6k miles on them. Though now I'm remembering there's a recall on them...
 
The KDSS bushings are cheap and easy to replace. Start there! That KDSS bar is massive and those bushing take a beating trying to control the mass of the GX!! haha

Our 17 GX w/ 60k mall crawling miles had some nasty clunking in the rear over bumps, and new bushings fixed that.
 
The KDSS bushings are cheap and easy to replace. Start there! That KDSS bar is massive and those bushing take a beating trying to control the mass of the GX!! haha

Our 17 GX w/ 60k mall crawling miles had some nasty clunking in the rear over bumps, and new bushings fixed that.
Which bushings, specifically? This is my first KDSS-equipped vehicle so pardon my ignorance.
 
Which bushings, specifically? This is my first KDSS-equipped vehicle so pardon my ignorance.

The ones attached to the swaybar at the control arm, probably.

 
The ones attached to the swaybar at the control arm, probably.

This^ helped my clunking a lot. Cheap and easy to replace, just be forewarned you will need to jack the lower back to place, you are not bending that sway bar lol.
 
The ones attached to the swaybar at the control arm, probably.

Thanks. Somehow the mysterious clunking went away, so I'll keep this in my back pocket should it return. Still, I'd be shocked if that was the culprit as the truck only has 34k miles on it.
 
Still, I'd be shocked if that was the culprit as the truck only has 34k miles on it.

Don't you think that information would be helpful for others to help you? What else aren't you telling us? Is she pregnant too?
 
Thanks. Somehow the mysterious clunking went away, so I'll keep this in my back pocket should it return. Still, I'd be shocked if that was the culprit as the truck only has 34k miles on it.
It may have taken a little bit of driving for the bushings to kind of settle into their spot after you re-tightened the sway bar link, or maybe things shifted a bit with temperature change. You may want to loosen (not remove) then retighten both mounts on the front sway. I get an occasional clunk from my track bar but it doesn't happen when its cold. I think I caused this when I installed my panhard relocation kit and only touched the axle side, so there is some tension issue with the frame side bushing. I need to crawl under there and basically loosen, then re-tighten both mounting bolts on the bar and see if that fixes it.
 
Don't you think that information would be helpful for others to help you? What else aren't you telling us? Is she pregnant too?
Ha! Not that I know of...

It may have taken a little bit of driving for the bushings to kind of settle into their spot after you re-tightened the sway bar link, or maybe things shifted a bit with temperature change. You may want to loosen (not remove) then retighten both mounts on the front sway. I get an occasional clunk from my track bar but it doesn't happen when its cold. I think I caused this when I installed my panhard relocation kit and only touched the axle side, so there is some tension issue with the frame side bushing. I need to crawl under there and basically loosen, then re-tighten both mounting bolts on the bar and see if that fixes it.
Sounds reasonable. Sometimes these things just have minds of their own.
 
Re: the Ironman UCAs, the recall was for the ball joint boot that apparently rips easy and causes pre-mature failure. Mine have 30K on them and 2 years and have not ripped and are fine. However I have a box with 2 new recall replacement UCAs sitting here - will likely be eBaying the old ones after throwing a set of new UBJs in it. It should be pretty easy to check if your UBJ boots are torn or not.
 
Well, time for new suspension I guess. Dobinson's November sale started, so I picked up a set of IMS for the holidays. Not expected to arrive until possibly next year.

That being said, had the best experience so far with Brennan at ApacheOffroad. We'll see what happens when it arrives, but that's how you do customer service.
 
Headed out to bow hunt. New bumper finally came. Highly recommend the bumper, but man the install was a massive pain in the ass. door closes solid, everything fits well, and no rattles which is one of my biggest pet peeves.
IMG_0274.jpeg
 
Headed out to bow hunt. New bumper finally came. Highly recommend the bumper, but man the install was a massive pain in the ass. door closes solid, everything fits well, and no rattles which is one of my biggest pet peeves.
View attachment 3472782
When you get a chance can you get some other pic's with different angles? With the black-on-black, it's hard to make out the details of the bumper.
I thing it's the lighting of your photo.
 
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Take a moment today to appreciate the build quality of your GX460. My daily is a Honda Civic Si and the materials they used throughout the car are stunningly bad. I previously had an early '00s Lexus with the melting dashboard issue, and look at the dash of any GX470 these days and you'll likely see issues, but my Honda is only 5 years old with 40k on the odometer. Look at this mess:

ADCreHfwdZb6tzEK1SNOwae33kXq3c1M6DV90ASqj1ljSv3H4pAOCzAsnein0rdaGM8lTlLikkcSguISqntyK1fX08AUEOQbi2I-d0_nMZJiNZ8RN01CB119mou20ecyYN2Gx_3SQ2O3G_q7XjNrmh8gTrnn=w1082-h1436-s-no-gm


That's not a wear item. It's the badge on the trunk lid. It's still covered with the clear plastic, so I don't even understand where the missing chrome could have gone. It just evaporated! I have plenty other areas that show the complete disregard and distain for their customers, but this one caught my eye over the weekend and nicely sums up the state of Honda right now: Trading on nostalgia and resting on their laurels based on a reputation for quality that they haven't deserved for over twenty years.

I'm going to dump this POS soon and upgrade to a much nicer car. Currently, I'm eyeing a 2003 Toyota Matrix with 175k on the clock. It's significant improvement over anything Honda is shilling these days and will likely last longer.
 

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