GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (16 Viewers)

[Roody]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

My MTRs were D rates and fine. I think it's going to vary from tire to tire. That being said Bridegstones Revo 3s and Firestone Dest XTs are 2 of the lightest E Load Range tires. Don't know how they are on rocks but if you are trying to get something more of a compromise and still want E Load Range. I have wheeled mine quite a bit on dirt, caliche, and creme Brule mud

 

[BigSwede]

I'm currently running Es, only because that was what was available in my somewhat obscure size at the time of purchase. But I am a fan of lighter C or D tires for the reasons you mention. In my 20+ years of wheeling I have trashed a few tires, including one a month ago. My 4 failed tires are evenly split between C and E ratings, so not really conclusive either way, though I would say I have had C tires for more of my wheeling than Es.

 

[Hiluxforever]

I'm currently running Es, only because that was what was available in my somewhat obscure size at the time of purchase. But I am a fan of lighter C or D tires for the reasons you mention. In my 20+ years of wheeling I have trashed a few tires, including one a month ago. My 4 failed tires are evenly split between C and E ratings, so not really conclusive either way, though I would say I have had C tires for more of my wheeling than Es.

After the MTRs the Revos are amazing..sp smooth and quiet and as long as I avoid trails during rain and within about 24-48 hours after it's fine. I have a short 13% grade I found to play on until I move someplace with more trails and the Revos are fine. 50 lbs a piece for 33s(285/70-17)

That is the mud thats too much for Revos

 

[re_guderian]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

I have C-rated Falken Wildpeaks. They wrap nicely around rocks here, but truth be told, I worry a bit about slicing them. No flats so far, and been and some gnarly rocks. I run them around 17-18 psi.

 

[JDUB fab]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

I feel like the extra thickness of an E tire is found in the tread area not the sidewall. Is that correct? I hear a lot of chatter online about how E rated tires are no better for offroad use, and that’s it’s a common misconception. I could be wrong, and I say this sitting on E rated BFGs, sooo.

 

[re_guderian]

I feel like the extra thickness of an E tire is found in the tread area not the sidewall. Is that correct? I hear a lot of chatter online about how E rated tires are no better for offroad use, and that’s it’s a common misconception. I could be wrong, and I say this sitting on E rated BFGs, sooo.

My understanding was the opposite, the sidewalls were stiffer to handle the extra weight. I had E rated pizza cutters 255/85/16 on my 80 series, and the sidewalls would hardly flex, even when the tire was nearly flat.

 

[JDUB fab]

My understanding was the opposite, the sidewalls were stiffer to handle the extra weight. I had E rated pizza cutters 255/85/16 on my 80 series, and the sidewalls would hardly flex, even when the tire was nearly flat.

Hmmm, yeah, that’s probably true, maybe I was thinking that because when they say 10ply, it’s actually 10 ply rated. Not 10 layers.
Perhaps tinker will do a video on this and set us all strait.

Surprised the 255s didn’t deform a lot, with all that extra sidewall I heard they deform more. Maybe that’s only compared to a wider tire of the same rating.

 

[Banandalorian]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

I've been running standard load Pirelli Scorpions since 2021 and have had no issues with sidewall punctures/tears in the mid-Atlantic. I'm not bouncing through rock gardens, but it's generally rocky here.
I think historically you had to get LT tires for off-roading because that was the only way to get stronger sidewalls but the newer AT/RT/MT tires have some engineering for sidewall puncture/tear resistance regardless of weight rating.

 

[McDuff123]

Hmmm, yeah, that’s probably true, maybe I was thinking that because when they say 10ply, it’s actually 10 ply rated. Not 10 layers.
Perhaps tinker will do a video on this and set us all strait.

Surprised the 255s didn’t deform a lot, with all that extra sidewall I heard they deform more. Maybe that’s only compared to a wider tire of the same rating.

Yep, @re_guderian is correct.
A ply-rating is exactly that…a rating. In modern, steel-belted tires the ply rating doesn’t signify an actual number of plies in the sidewall but rather it indicates an equivalent strength to old-time bias ply tires.
6-ply (also identified as load tange “C”) have a lower weight carrying ability than 10-ply (loadrange “E”).
But if the vehicle isn’t heavy enough, E tires might not give the aired-down performance you want.
Also, size for size, the higher the ply rating, the heavier the tire in general.
Nothing to do with tread depth, everything to do with sidewall strength, weight carrying, and the ability to “deform” at lower pressures.

 

[BigSwede]

My understanding was the opposite, the sidewalls were stiffer to handle the extra weight. I had E rated pizza cutters 255/85/16 on my 80 series, and the sidewalls would hardly flex, even when the tire was nearly flat.

Yeah, the E sidewalls definitely seem stiffer to me, in my experience.

 

[SteadfastRocky]

Stiffer does not mean more mataerial either. Toyo is a good example of a tire company that uses a 2 ply side wall on some of their tires and a 3 ply on others regardless of weight ratings.

In a perfect world, I would rather have a D load range tire with a 3 ply side wall.

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

As it stands I would rather run the 34 10.5 17 from BFG in an E load range than a 258 75 17 D or C assuming both have 2 ply side walls . We wheel on a lot of shale and I have yet to smoke an E load ranged tire I have however smoked a D range on similar ground. Wheel weight is under sold too. I could see pulling 5-8 lbs a wheel out if you go forged.

Other "weight savings", aluminum bumpers (with a steel winch cradle), no roof rack if possible, 3rd row delete, aluminum skids, less durable yes, but then treat them as a disposable. Run a stock size spare with the intent to only limp the truck out. Pair down the amount of tools you carry, (I went from 40 lbs in my Tacoma to less than 20 with our kits, and the kits could be lighter if money was no object).

I *think* the the GX is probably the most tolerant of the mid size Toyota of taking added weight below its GVWR, at least that's been my experience.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Stiffer does not mean more mataerial either. Toyo is a good example of a tire company that uses a 2 ply side wall on some of their tires and a 3 ply on others regardless of weight ratings.

In a perfect world, I would rather have a D load range tire with a 3 ply side wall.


As it stands I would rather run the 34 10.5 17 from BFG in an E load range than a 258 75 17 D or C assuming both have 2 ply side walls . We wheel on a lot of shale and I have yet to smoke an E load ranged tire I have however smoked a D range on similar ground. Wheel weight is under sold too. I could see pulling 5-8 lbs a wheel out if you go forged.

Other "weight savings", aluminum bumpers (with a steel winch cradle), no roof rack if possible, 3rd row delete, aluminum skids, less durable yes, but then treat them as a disposable. Run a stock size spare with the intent to only limp the truck out. Pair down the amount of tools you carry, (I went from 40 lbs in my Tacoma to less than 20 with our kits, and the kits could be lighter if money was no object).

I *think* the the GX is probably the most tolerant of the mid size Toyota of taking added weight below its GVWR, at least that's been my experience.

There is also a Toyo available in the 34x10.5 (33.5") that's a hundred plus dollars less than the BFG. I don't know if they are shipping yet.

 

[Rednexus]

Is everyone who wheels their 460 on rocky terrain running E-rated tires? Wondering if we can get away with D-rated or if it's not worth the worry.

Source of this question: Looking long-term at places to save weight. Any spot to minimize mass is helpful in wear/tear, fuel consumption, and general driving dynamics. A few pounds per corner with lighter wheels/tires also pays a huge dividend in acceleration, cornering, braking, and strain on driveline components.

I'll get some flak (and have gotten flak) before for this, but I run P-rated Wildpeaks on my rig. 265/70R17s are 46#s a tire, 285/70R17s are 51# a tire. I've had them on for 2.5 years and 35K miles including lots of wheeling in muddy, rocky, snowy, and sandy conditions. We have lots of very sharp chert (arrowhead material) and volcanic rocks here in the Ozarks, plus they've also been to the San Juans (more sharp volcanic rocks) and Moab (easy slickrock). I'll run them as low as 15 psi but typically 18 psi for mixed wheeling. With this setup the rig handles great, stops great, has plenty of acceleration, and gets reasonable fuel economy.

I have had exactly zero issues with them, outside of getting some sand in the bead when doing donuts on a gravel bar at 18 psi. Zero flats, zero sidewall punctures, zero other issues. They also get used extensively for towing. If I do have an issue, I have a 255/75R17 spare, Milwaukee impact, and lift/stabilization pad for the OEM jack and will change a tire on the trail. But I haven't had any issues.

If my rig was a single-purpose overlanding rig I'd have C-rated tires on it - but in my experience, lightweight P-rated tires do just fine. I'll be replacing them next year with a set of P-rated 285/70R17 tires to also keep weight down. I would probably never personally run E rated tires on anything other than a dedicated trail rig.

 

[Banandalorian]

As it stands I would rather run the 34 10.5 17 from BFG in an E load range than a 258 75 17 D or C assuming both have 2 ply side walls . We wheel on a lot of shale and I have yet to smoke an E load ranged tire I have however smoked a D range on similar ground. Wheel weight is under sold too. I could see pulling 5-8 lbs a wheel out if you go forged.

Anecdotally in the last 3 years since I started ruining a perfectly good Lexus with my off road friends, the only people in our regular group who have cut sidewalls have both been on E rated Duratracs.
In my mind, the E rated tire will have the strongest sidewall compared to the same tire in other load categories. But if your choice is a lower weight AT/RT/MT tire that has off road cut/puncture resistance as a design feature vs a E rated tire that doesn't, you are better off with the lower weight tire.

 

[K Dub]

I'll get some flak (and have gotten flak) before for this, but I run P-rated Wildpeaks on my rig. 265/70R17s are 46#s a tire, 285/70R17s are 51# a tire. I've had them on for 2.5 years and 35K miles including lots of wheeling in muddy, rocky, snowy, and sandy conditions. We have lots of very sharp chert (arrowhead material) and volcanic rocks here in the Ozarks, plus they've also been to the San Juans (more sharp volcanic rocks) and Moab (easy slickrock). I'll run them as low as 15 psi but typically 18 psi for mixed wheeling. With this setup the rig handles great, stops great, has plenty of acceleration, and gets reasonable fuel economy.

I have had exactly zero issues with them, outside of getting some sand in the bead when doing donuts on a gravel bar at 18 psi. Zero flats, zero sidewall punctures, zero other issues. They also get used extensively for towing. If I do have an issue, I have a 255/75R17 spare, Milwaukee impact, and lift/stabilization pad for the OEM jack and will change a tire on the trail. But I haven't had any issues.

If my rig was a single-purpose overlanding rig I'd have C-rated tires on it - but in my experience, lightweight P-rated tires do just fine. I'll be replacing them next year with a set of P-rated 285/70R17 tires to also keep weight down. I would probably never personally run E rated tires on anything other than a dedicated trail rig.

I was running E rated tires and OME's heavy J springs on my 80 series and I feel like that had a lot to do with my initial love of the GX when I first got it. You mean I can still go off-road without rattling my fillings loose? Where do I sign?

I've had two punctures on my Wildpeaks and both occured in the city. Most recently it was the day after some moderate/heavy wheeling where I had aired down, then the next day my wife had a flat. She was convinced that it was from our trip until I found the shiny new screw sticking out of the treads and asked her if she'd seen any hardware like that while we were in the mountains. Turns out it looked a lot like the hardware littering the street near our daughter's school.

Punctures happen, even with the heaviest tires around. I've debeaded a tire as well (also doing donuts). That's what the spare is for. I carry a patch kit as well, just in case I have two flats. But I don't loose any sleep worrying about my tires and honestly I think these Falkens have been my favorite all purpose tire that I've ever bought, particularly when I consider the noise and road manners for daily use. Obviously my 80 had much better off road abilities, but the trade offs are worth it.

 

[BigSwede]

My next set will be C-rated I think. In my experience they are quite durable, and definitely have less rolling resistance compared to E tires. And I will buy the insurance "certificates" from Discount Tire (just got a $403 tire replaced for $84).

 

[Rednexus]

I was running E rated tires and OME's heavy J springs on my 80 series and I feel like that had a lot to do with my initial love of the GX when I first got it. You mean I can still go off-road without rattling my fillings loose? Where do I sign?

I've had two punctures on my Wildpeaks and both occured in the city. Most recently it was the day after some moderate/heavy wheeling where I had aired down, then the next day my wife had a flat. She was convinced that it was from our trip until I found the shiny new screw sticking out of the treads and asked her if she'd seen any hardware like that while we were in the mountains. Turns out it looked a lot like the hardware littering the street near our daughter's school.

Punctures happen, even with the heaviest tires around. I've debeaded a tire as well (also doing donuts). That's what the spare is for. I carry a patch kit as well, just in case I have two flats. But I don't loose any sleep worrying about my tires and honestly I think these Falkens have been my favorite all purpose tire that I've ever bought, particularly when I consider the noise and road manners for daily use. Obviously my 80 had much better off road abilities, but the trade offs are worth it.

Yes, you absolutely can! I also have onboard air and carry a patch kit. Also agree that the Falkens have been an exceptional tire; I've convinced friends to run them on their rigs (and they also love them) and will be getting another set when these wear out. The Falkens have done exceptionally well in everything I've thrown at them. I'm not sure how well other P-rateds would fare off road would be interested in hearing experiences on other lightweight ries.

 

[K Dub]

Yes, you absolutely can! I also have onboard air and carry a patch kit. Also agree that the Falkens have been an exceptional tire; I've convinced friends to run them on their rigs (and they also love them) and will be getting another set when these wear out. The Falkens have done exceptionally well in everything I've thrown at them. I'm not sure how well other P-rateds would fare off road would be interested in hearing experiences on other lightweight ries.

I had BFG KO2s on a series of rigs preceding this one and was always content with them. I took the leap to Falkens because I just wanted to try something new. Between the quieter ride and the far superior snow capabilities, I'm not going back. I may try something else yet again when the time comes, but not because I'm looking for improvement. Mostly because I feel like a bit of a fool for buying those BFGs out of habit when a better tire was available. Now I appreciate a bit of variety. You'll never know unless you try.

 

[Rednexus]

I had BFG KO2s on a series of rigs preceding this one and was always content with them. I took the leap to Falkens because I just wanted to try something new. Between the quieter ride and the far superior snow capabilities, I'm not going back. I may try something else yet again when the time comes, but not because I'm looking for improvement. Mostly because I feel like a bit of a fool for buying those BFGs out of habit when a better tire was available. Now I appreciate a bit of variety. You'll never know unless you try.

I've considered to Toyo Open Country AT3s and the new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss tires, as the 285/70R17s for both of those are similar or even lighter weight than the Wildpeaks. At the same time, why mess with success with the Wildpeaks have been so stellar. My rig gets most of its miles towing anyway, and the Wildpeaks definitely shine in that environment.