GX460 3rd Row Platform Options (1 Viewer)

[Badao]

Hi all, I did the 3rd row seat delete and added sound deadening mat plus a layer of foam insulation mat. Now it is time for a platform!!!

I already routed the ARB compressor harness to the back and plan on mounting it right next to the Jack cover panel so I would need to built a shelf like the goose gear.

I have zero DIY skill and wood working skill but after reading through a lot of threads on here gave me some inspirations. I would need to get some tools and supplies for DIY which I am guessing it will cost about $500. Victory 4x4 has the GX floor system on sale for $534.65 including shipping; do any of you guys running on this systems? I like the goose gear plate system but it costs $845 which I am not sure if it will be worthy. Since I have no experience on working on woods should I even try to DIY a plate or just buying a commercial product and save some headaches.

 

[Hiluxforever]

I mean I built one in a common garage area on the first floor of my apartment building using a 12v Li ion drill and a trashed porter cable Jig saw.

Pro tips, hide your cuts by only showing finished edges.

Uses lots of wood glue. I make sure to throughly spread it on every wood to wood surface to increase strength. I prefer Titebond #3.

I did apprentice as a carpenter for 2 years and have over 20 years in construction, fabrication or engineering.

I ordered longer beveled zinc coated fasteners for those four holes across the back. If you don't use them, throw the old bolts in to keep them sealed. They are open to the outside on the bottomed of my truck.

I have run this setup for 9 months and had some minor forays in the air and everything is still in good condition. I added an extension before I slid everything back to add the second row back in.

I used plywood and 1x4 to reinforce it like waynescot.

 

[r2m]

To help hide saw cuts you can get some aluminum "U" channel extrusions and just cap the ends of all your cuts that are exposed.
Power tools you should have to make it much easier would be a drill (prefer a variable speed, reversible with 3/8" minimum chuck) and circular hand saw.
I can't find his posts right now, but PM jakemccurdy on his build, here is something you may need to know also: SRS Airbag Delete Dongle Manufacturer - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/srs-airbag-delete-dongle-manufacturer.1317784/
Jake did his rear build with minimal tools and in his garage. Came out very nice!

 

[Hiluxforever]

Mine is mainly to hold the tire captive in the event of an accident as well as give me a place to stash tools and recovery gear so it's always accessible. Even if I am loaded to the gills.

I just took a bunch of pictures and will link the thread I update.

 

[Hiluxforever]

My Build Thread

It was a process for me, if you look at the pictures from pg 6 forward. I linked to page 8 with the most recent pictures.

 

[Badao]

My Build Thread

It was a process for me, if you look at the pictures from pg 6 forward. I linked to page 8 with the most recent pictures.

Thanks for shearing! I did removed all the clips from the plastic panel and used all the bolts to cover the holes for now. And plan on using them as a mounting point for the baseplate if I decide to do it myself!

 

[Badao]

To help hide saw cuts you can get some aluminum "U" channel extrusions and just cap the ends of all your cuts that are exposed.
Power tools you should have to make it much easier would be a drill (prefer a variable speed, reversible with 3/8" minimum chuck) and circular hand saw.
I can't find his posts right now, but PM jakemccurdy on his build, here is something you may need to know also: SRS Airbag Delete Dongle Manufacturer - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/srs-airbag-delete-dongle-manufacturer.1317784/
Jake did his rear build with minimal tools and in his garage. Came out very nice!

I actually watched Jake’s YouTube video about how he design and build his platform from the garage. He also shares his design files and a list of stuff he used that’s really nice of him! Which kinda makes me think that I could probably just duplicate one for myself but knowing I have not work on wood before the margin of error is unpredicted lol.

 

[r2m]

...knowing I have not work on wood before the margin of error is unpredicted lol.

If you screw up a cut? Wood is cheap enough, go out and buy another sheet.
Just remember, "Measure twice AND cut once."
You may also need to get a right angle square to ensure all your cuts are perpendicular to each other

Amazon.com : right angle square

And a long piece of aluminum or something long and straight that you can run a pencil down for drawing straight lines or some C clamps to clamp down a guide rail for cuts.

 

[Hiluxforever]

If you get a 48" straight edge you can clamp it on a piece of plywood to act as a short axis cutting guide. I used a half sheet. I started with just a piece of plywood to have something to lay things on.

 

[Cold Iron]

I'm jealous, can't start working on mine until it warms up here. Snowed today and supposed to the rest of the week until Saturday with the exception of tomorrow. Laying down the sound vibration absorbing matts I'm sure you understand that they need to be warm to roll out.

I looked at the Victory platform but not a fan of metal as a base platform. Or the holes in it with sliding plates behind it and all the bolts on top. Or the lip in front, it sits up higher than I want every square inch in these things is valuable. And you are sort of tied into their mounting system and equipment. The Goose platform is nice, but not $850 nice for a 1/2" thick piece of 4x4 plywood. Not going to happen with me. And my needs are a bit different than many so basically might as well make it myself, I will have a platform on top of a platform with the top one removable.

Sounds like your fridge is one need you have already identified. So would evaluate your needs and see if either of the premade systems will satisfy your requirements. Because you already put down sound deadening you will most likely have to cut some of it out to get those systems to mount correctly. Just a thought if you go premade.

I see leads for a multimeter. And you wired the power source to your fridge already. You can do woodworking. Attention to detail and as already mentioned measure twice and cut once. I normally use a witness stick for cuts but will still flip it over and mark it on the other side so that I "measure twice". You got this if you want to do it yourself. And will have tools for other projects down the road if you select the right tools. Can't imagine owning a home without having woodworking tools, just saying.

You can get by with 4x4 sheets of plywood so you don't have to worry about 8'. And can have most places rip them in half if that is what you need to do and finish cut them at home and 8' is your only option. At one time a carpenter was measured by the sawhorses he built for himself. With premade horses readily available that isn't the case so much anymore. And you are going to want horses or a work table\bench for cutting and drilling. If you go metal horses make sure you put a sacrificial wood piece on top of them to protect your saw blade. I have 4 horses around here that I built more than 30 years ago but prefer the newer portable tables now. Worx Pegasus, Pony portable work table, or B&D workmate (higher end one). They each have their strengths and weaknesses. You can start with one for a 4x4 sheet then over time add another as needed. Or just go with a pair of horses.

Straight edge guide, I have an old metal clamp on keep threating myself that I'm going to upgrade it but never have. Similar to this Bora 50" circular saw guide. If you're cutting 48" you want your guide to be longer than your workpiece of 48". Doesn't have to be fancy and I've made my own before like this but using MDF.



You are going to want a circular saw and drill at a minimum. Sander is nice as well but a sanding block or piece of scrap lumber works on sheet goods too. Just more physical work and takes longer. If you do more than straight lines a jigsaw. My jigsaw is still a corded Bosh. Have plenty of corded tools but like everyone else have gone to cordless for the most part. Not that there is anything wrong with corded tools we used them for many years, and hand tools too LOL. And extension cords.

Take your time in selecting cordless if you go that way, once you are vested in batteries that is the brand you are going to go with. It is the cost of the batteries that is expensive. Ryobi is the cheapest and for many homeowners are enough. But I had bad luck with their batteries in yard tools when they first came out. I ended up going with Rigid (Home Depot) and they have a lifetime warranty. At my age lifetime doesn't mean so much. But for a younger person...

Good luck and you will do fine, I have no doubt about it. Try to plan out ahead of time what your needs are and what you want for the star of end result. SHW Offroad makes another platform for the GX, they don't sell a base plate only however. He does have one of the better videos out there on building your own drawers: Mistakes to Avoid Building Your Own Overland Drawers. Well worth the watch IMO if you haven't seen it yet and are thinking of making drawers.

 

[Badao]

I'm jealous, can't start working on mine until it warms up here. Snowed today and supposed to the rest of the week until Saturday with the exception of tomorrow. Laying down the sound vibration absorbing matts I'm sure you understand that they need to be warm to roll out.

I looked at the Victory platform but not a fan of metal as a base platform. Or the holes in it with sliding plates behind it and all the bolts on top. Or the lip in front, it sits up higher than I want every square inch in these things is valuable. And you are sort of tied into their mounting system and equipment. The Goose platform is nice, but not $850 nice for a 1/2" thick piece of 4x4 plywood. Not going to happen with me. And my needs are a bit different than many so basically might as well make it myself, I will have a platform on top of a platform with the top one removable.

Sounds like your fridge is one need you have already identified. So would evaluate your needs and see if either of the premade systems will satisfy your requirements. Because you already put down sound deadening you will most likely have to cut some of it out to get those systems to mount correctly. Just a thought if you go premade.

I see leads for a multimeter. And you wired the power source to your fridge already. You can do woodworking. Attention to detail and as already mentioned measure twice and cut once. I normally use a witness stick for cuts but will still flip it over and mark it on the other side so that I "measure twice". You got this if you want to do it yourself. And will have tools for other projects down the road if you select the right tools. Can't imagine owning a home without having woodworking tools, just saying.

You can get by with 4x4 sheets of plywood so you don't have to worry about 8'. And can have most places rip them in half if that is what you need to do and finish cut them at home and 8' is your only option. At one time a carpenter was measured by the sawhorses he built for himself. With premade horses readily available that isn't the case so much anymore. And you are going to want horses or a work table\bench for cutting and drilling. If you go metal horses make sure you put a sacrificial wood piece on top of them to protect your saw blade. I have 4 horses around here that I built more than 30 years ago but prefer the newer portable tables now. Worx Pegasus, Pony portable work table, or B&D workmate (higher end one). They each have their strengths and weaknesses. You can start with one for a 4x4 sheet then over time add another as needed. Or just go with a pair of horses.

Straight edge guide, I have an old metal clamp on keep threating myself that I'm going to upgrade it but never have. Similar to this Bora 50" circular saw guide. If you're cutting 48" you want your guide to be longer than your workpiece of 48". Doesn't have to be fancy and I've made my own before like this but using MDF.



You are going to want a circular saw and drill at a minimum. Sander is nice as well but a sanding block or piece of scrap lumber works on sheet goods too. Just more physical work and takes longer. If you do more than straight lines a jigsaw. My jigsaw is still a corded Bosh. Have plenty of corded tools but like everyone else have gone to cordless for the most part. Not that there is anything wrong with corded tools we used them for many years, and hand tools too LOL. And extension cords.

Take your time in selecting cordless if you go that way, once you are vested in batteries that is the brand you are going to go with. It is the cost of the batteries that is expensive. Ryobi is the cheapest and for many homeowners are enough. But I had bad luck with their batteries in yard tools when they first came out. I ended up going with Rigid (Home Depot) and they have a lifetime warranty. At my age lifetime doesn't mean so much. But for a younger person...

Good luck and you will do fine, I have no doubt about it. Try to plan out ahead of time what your needs are and what you want for the star of end result. SHW Offroad makes another platform for the GX, they don't sell a base plate only however. He does have one of the better videos out there on building your own drawers: Mistakes to Avoid Building Your Own Overland Drawers. Well worth the watch IMO if you haven't seen it yet and are thinking of making drawers.

We just got dumped with about 2ft of snow over here and looks like it will be cold for a few more days. Just got new suspensions with 2'' lift in today and more parts will be coming so a lot of work need to be done on the GX but can't wait for some warmer weather so I can take her out.

I really appreciate your write up and knowledge you have sheared which encouraged me at the same time. I agreed that Victory platform has less features and kinda limited the options for future built. And after watching Jake's video it is pretty convinced that DIY would be a better way to go.

Think we may be on the same boats. Initially, I was plan on just getting a drawer system and called it a day but after some feasibility study I think a platform on top of a platform with the top one removable works best for my needs. I am a weekend warrior and maybe overland trip once or twice a year. A permeant drawer system weights about 150-200lbs easily. Let me know how it goes for you. It will be awhile before I built mine but gonna start looking at tools, parts, and etc. Again thanks for your time. The info and tips your provided are very helpful.

 

[Badao]

Finally got some time and weather was nice enough to work outside to start this project. This is how it turn out right now. Any advice on how to bolt the front of the plywood down to the frame? I was using rivet nut insert but it didn’t work out. The M10 nut insert I got from Amazon didn’t fit the factory M10 bolts. I believe the pitch wasn’t 1.25 for the insert so when I tighten the bolt the rivet nut fail and is spinning in place with the bolt had hard time to get the bolt out.

 

[jdam]

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of that base board? Planning on doing the same this weekend and would be a good place to start.

 

[Badao]

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of that base board? Planning on doing the same this weekend and would be a good place to start.

If u want to tight fit it’s 42.25” wide and 41 long. But the one I had in the pic is 41-13/16” wide since Home Depot messed up.

 

[Cold Iron]

Finally got some time and weather was nice enough to work outside to start this project. This is how it turn out right now. Any advice on how to bolt the front of the plywood down to the frame? I was using rivet nut insert but it didn’t work out. The M10 nut insert I got from Amazon didn’t fit the factory M10 bolts. I believe the pitch wasn’t 1.25 for the insert so when I tighten the bolt the rivet nut fail and is spinning in place with the bolt had hard time to get the bolt out.View attachment 3634257

Warming up here as well which means have many projects outside etc. that I am afraid my platform will become a summer project. Towed today for the first time and have a bunch of fluids and a trany cooler to install but still look at how I am going to do my platform.

Despite being a retired Navy Machinist Mate Chief never have used rivet nuts always welded. Was thinking this would finally be a good time to break into the "new" rivnut field with a harbor freight kit and I am not a fan of HF. But knowing your thread pitch on the nut and bolt is crucial no matter how you are doing it even if you are using a thread chaser file. But that is a last resort.

I still plan on the HF kit for the front hold down. And will verify the bolt and nuts thread pitch before doing any drilling.

If push comes to shove you could use an anchor bolt but not where you have already installed a rivnut. And will not have the same hold down strength as a rivnut and bolt.

You most likely will have to cut to length and before you do double nut it so that you can chase the threads when you remove the nuts

 

[Badao]

Warming up here as well which means have many projects outside etc. that I am afraid my platform will become a summer project. Towed today for the first time and have a bunch of fluids and a trany cooler to install but still look at how I am going to do my platform.

Despite being a retired Navy Machinist Mate Chief never have used rivet nuts always welded. Was thinking this would finally be a good time to break into the "new" rivnut field with a harbor freight kit and I am not a fan of HF. But knowing your thread pitch on the nut and bolt is crucial no matter how you are doing it even if you are using a thread chaser file. But that is a last resort.

I still plan on the HF kit for the front hold down. And will verify the bolt and nuts thread pitch before doing any drilling.

If push comes to shove you could use an anchor bolt but not where you have already installed a rivnut. And will not have the same hold down strength as a rivnut and bolt.

You most likely will have to cut to length and before you do double nut it so that you can chase the threads when you remove the nuts

I thought about using the anchor bolt first but will become problematic if I need to remove the platform one day. Than I was thinking maybe an angle plate with self driving screws may work but no luck finding a 30 degree angle, so the rivet nut tool sounds promising. However all the rivet nut only specify sizes not pitch, I should have find a bolt that matches the nut insert first. I could drill the insert out and redo the rivet but I am just afraid part of the insert falls into the rib and I can’t get it out which my cause rattles down the road.

Good luck on installing the transmission cooler. I towed once during the winter and got about 10mpg lol.

Thank your for your service!

 

[Cold Iron]

I thought about using the anchor bolt first but will become problematic if I need to remove the platform one day. Than I was thinking maybe an angle plate with self driving screws may work but no luck finding a 30 degree angle, so the rivet nut tool sounds promising. However all the rivet nut only specify sizes not pitch, I should have find a bolt that matches the nut insert first. I could drill the insert out and redo the rivet but I am just afraid part of the insert falls into the rib and I can’t get it out which my cause rattles down the road.

Good luck on installing the transmission cooler. I towed once during the winter and got about 10mpg lol.

Thank your for your service!

Hey I got 10.5 mpg today starting with a full tank of gas. And actually made it home with a tick on the gas gauge I wouldn't have made it home with the second gen Taco, done it many times. Things are relative but at least now I have balls when needed. rather the GX does and it is a game changer.

Of course you want to always match pitch of the nut to the bolt and if you have an extra nut take it to an old fashioned hardware store and verify it. You can even do it at Home Depot if you have to. Just spent ~$100 at Amazon tonight for misc. hardware. Before I placed an order for each I verified the return policy. The ability to verify at a local store is priceless. The ability for next day delivery is also priceless...

Good luck!

 

[jdam]

Thanks @Badao for the excellent measurements. Just confirmed off of mine, went to HD, and here we are. I need to wallow out the mounting holes slightly for some adjustment, but it's otherwise in and very solid. I used 1/2 ply instead of 3/4 but doubled up in some sections. Just have to get some automotive carpeting to finish it off, and do some filler pieces for the side. I'm happy to have the space back.

 

[Badao]

Thanks @Badao for the excellent measurements. Just confirmed off of mine, went to HD, and here we are. I need to wallow out the mounting holes slightly for some adjustment, but it's otherwise in and very solid. I used 1/2 ply instead of 3/4 but doubled up in some sections. Just have to get some automotive carpeting to finish it off, and do some filler pieces for the side. I'm happy to have the space back.

View attachment 3635002

View attachment 3635004

Look nice! I should have remove the factory sound deadening as well it looks much more cleaner and provide more flat surface. I would use 1/2 but to recessed the bolt the top of the bolt need to be grained and I don’t want to do that so went with 3/4. If I had to do it again I would just bolted the bottom piece and drive some screws from the top of the plate. Are you plan on secure the front of the plate down to the frame?

 

[jdam]

Look nice! I should have remove the factory sound deadening as well it looks much more cleaner and provide more flat surface. I would use 1/2 but to recessed the bolt the top of the bolt need to be grained and I don’t want to do that so went with 3/4. If I had to do it again I would just bolted the bottom piece and drive some screws from the top of the plate. Are you plan on secure the front of the plate down to the frame?

Yeah, I plan to eventually secure the front but haven't quite figured out yet. I think what I plan to do is to replace the lower piece of 1x3 with a laser cut tube from Osh Cut and do the same with the front, utilizing the OEM seat mounting holes. That'll require some creative bending but I won't need to rivnut that area in the front. We'll see. Rivnuts are easy and I already have some so plans may change. For now, it's secure enough for me.