GX rear door cutting board/kitchen

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Seems like many rear table approaches (DIY and commercial products) tend to just bolt into the plastic door cover, rather than the metal of the door itself (whether that be via piano hinge at the bottom, or brackets on the sides like the Kaon). Has anyone had any long term issues with this approach (e.g. plastic warping/deforming, screws coming loose)? I was all ready to take the piano hinge or bracket on plastic approach, but Mountain Passes Offroad has a new piano hinge approach that's completely floating through the plastic via rivnuts and and standoffs that has me second guessing myself ().


Ours is mounted to the plastic only. I was originally concerned about it as well, but so far it's been solid. I did add a couple of washers to the front side where the handle mounts so that if the clips fail to hold up the plastic trim, it won't drop to the ground unexpectedly.

There's no question that mounting to the metal would be more secure, but what are you trying to put on the table? I'd think as long as you're cognizant of the limitations and don't overdo it, you'll be fine...

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Ours is mounted to the plastic only. I was originally concerned about it as well, but so far it's been solid. I did add a couple of washers to the front side where the handle mounts so that if the clips fail to hold up the plastic trim, it won't drop to the ground unexpectedly.

There's no question that mounting to the metal would be more secure, but what are you trying to put on the table? I'd think as long as you're cognizant of the limitations and don't overdo it, you'll be fine...
Could you guys tell me what latches you're using to keep these closed? Thanks
 
Could you guys tell me what latches you're using to keep these closed? Thanks

I don't recall the name off hand. They were from amazon. If you download our free tailgate table build manual, there's a link in there to them.
 
@amongmany Super nice write up on the DIY tailgate table. Thank you very much! Added to my backlog of projects to do on the GX470.
 
Thanks for that ping @slymoan !!

It reminded me I never posted the table I completed 2 years ago 🤪!!

We're all too familiar with this starting point!
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I used a piece of Ikea Legan 17921 ;)
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cut and shaped to recess flush.
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Take off the bits to trim and reinstall neatly.
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I built a steel frame to surround the plastic recess.
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Mounted piano hinge to frame:
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Electrical connector for support, w/ shrink wrap
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Custom knob:

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I didn't math enough though.... the mounting screws were supposed to be offset so when closed they shouldn't interfere with each other... But they do.

I treated with several coats of cutting board oil

The latch mounts through plastic with washers and a nyclock nut, so that's the weak pointy of my design.
 
460 not 470, but here's my welfare contraption:

DIY using a plastic cutting board, gate hinges, paracord, and magnets to keep it closed. It's mounted into the plastic not the metal, but I removed the panel and backed each bolt up with a large fender washer and a nylok nut. and the paracord is knotted behind a large fender washer as well. I also put some cord locks on the bottom side of the table, on the paracord above the keeper knot, so I can slightly adjust the angle of the table as needed.

Light duty - but supports coffee and snacks and such fine. Would work just the same on the 470 I am sure.

It is sized the way it is which is smaller than I would like, because it was built to fit on my Jeep before I got the GX.

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Question for anyone using Kayon - does the lip side being up affect the function for you, or do you like the way it keeps stuff from sliding - have a repurposed/DIY idea using these am thinking of trying it lip side down and adding a pull out cutting board underneath.
I have something like this
Pros - full door width table, sanitizable.
Cons - weight of steel, need to make sure support is good. Also protrudes a bit, but should be enough clearance with my platform. All the holes may make truly cleaning it difficult.
 

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