Grrr sound..... After 2.5 ome lift

[Durst]

Put a 2.5 med lift kit and 30mm front spacers in my 97 lx a few weeks back.
Now have a Grrr sound when deceleration. Around 1100rpm and 1900.
It was sound free for the first 2 weeks of driving (only driving evenings and weekends, have a work truck).
Had it into my trusted mechanic, looked at drive line angles, and went over every thing when in the air.
Nothing is rubbing, every thing is tight and looking good.

Iam stumped at what it could be. Could I be overlooking something simple?!

 

[baldilocks]

If your 80 has no extra weight like bumpers, armor and such it is very likely that the actual lift gain is more than 2.5 plus the 1 3/16 spacer. In this case your driveline angles are off but the front one is likely what you are hearing.
Did you do castor correction? Have you verified the health of your U-joints? Sometimes simply greasing them well will help until next pay day when you can replace the joints. However, if the angles are off that much the new joints won't last as long as they should.

 

[Durst]

I have an ARB in the front and castor correction bushing, sits nice and level. I have not greeted my front shaft since buying it last summer. I'll grease it after work tomorrow. Would be is a simple fix.

 

[Mudluscious]

Keep me posted....i have the same issue...i will try the grease as well.

 

[08720]

spindles might be dry?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

A bad u-joint will cause the Grrrr. Greasing them may fix but probably not. Drop your drivelines and rotate each joint on both axis. If the joint is not perfectly smooth on one of the axis, that is the one that needs to be changed. I experienced this on our 94. Joints were well greased and tight but one was not smooth.

 

[KevinNY]

You probably have original U joints that have been running at one angle for the last 19 years. Now you changed that angle, replace them. I'm convinced this is the problem with the majority of "I just lifted my truck and now get vibes" posts.

 

[baldilocks]

If your joint angles are not within 1 or maybe 2 degrees of each other, vibration is very probable and will be more noticeable with worn joints.
Your front 850's plus 30mm spacer is basically the same thing as using just an 850J spring, which is what I originally installed. My front shaft had a vibration even though the joints checked out good. I had to buy a DC front shaft. Problem solved.
Post a photo of your front U-joint angle.

 

[Durst]

The new wear angle on the old joints I can see causing the issue.
I will put up a pic when I get home.

 

[Durst]

Sorry for the lack of reply. I have not had my 450 for the last 2 weeks. The GF hijacked it to move and she enjoys driving it.


Got it back for the evening. The drive line angle is not bad, other then the U joints are weeping. Will lube it up tomorrow. In the next few weeks I'll replace the u joints and start tracking down a DC shaft or the parts to get one made in town..

 

[Dissent]

Mine was front, then rear drivelines. Opted for DC shafts front and rear. Driving on rear only shaft currently. Mine has TJM 50mm and 30mm spacers. Netted 4" of lift.

 

[Durst]

Got the lx back from the gf for a few more days. The grease helped some but the u joints are going to get replaced next week.

 

[Explorer4Hire]

I had the same issue on my old 85 YOTA. Got the shaft balanced and it was perfect after that. Pretty sure I replaced the U joints too. Can't remember.

 

[ALX4X4]

Mine was the same because the uni was being asked to operate in a 'new' range. Replaced the uni;s and problem solved. Well, until a lighter motor went in and I ended up with this, so now gone DC

 

[Durst]

Had the u joints done the other week. The GF has been driving but got it back for a day and sadly it did not fix my issue.
so now to ask around the local clubs for a used or good deal on a DCshaft

 

[Dissent]

Check those driveshaft angles. Even with my DC shaft, I'm 5 degrees off. I've gained a lot of knowledge of pinion angles and driveshafts over the past two weeks. I guarantee that your pinion angle is not parallel with your transfer case flange angle. I had to buy (or make) Lower Control Arms that were longer to rotate the pinion back down to accommodate the OEM shaft again. I'm ditching the DC shaft in the rear. If I was keeping the DC shaft, I'd have to get longer Upper Control Arms to rotate the pinion up about 4-5 degrees. Do a few searches on driveline angles and buy an electronic angle gauge. I bought a $30 cube model with magnets from Amazon. Makes everything abundantly clear in a few minutes once you understand why the angles matter.

 

[Durst]

Good to know. Keep me posted.