Group Buy - 100 Series Headers (2 Viewers)

[pzengilowski]

Headers still available at group buy price

I just ordered a set of headers from Nick and he offered the group buy price. Says he still has more on hand so anybody that didn't get in on this originally can still do so. Mine are shipping tomorrow.

 

[OregonLC]

I just ordered a set of headers from Nick and he offered the group buy price. Says he still has more on hand so anybody that didn't get in on this originally can still do so. Mine are shipping tomorrow.

great news! feel free to ping back if you need any help our guidance on the install.

 

[Boz_10]

I just ordered a set of headers from Nick and he offered the group buy price. Says he still has more on hand so anybody that didn't get in on this originally can still do so. Mine are shipping tomorrow.

...how much did it cost you?

 

[pzengilowski]

Thanks for offering to help, I think the biggest issue is going to be convincing my mechanic that they can be replaced through the wheel wells in 4 - 6 hours instead of the books 10 hours per side.

The cost was $540 + UPS ground shipping which I felt was great of Nick to offer.

 

[OregonLC]

Thanks for offering to help, I think the biggest issue is going to be convincing my mechanic that they can be replaced through the wheel wells in 4 - 6 hours instead of the books 10 hours per side.

The cost was $540 + UPS ground shipping which I felt was great of Nick to offer.

Have your mechanic log in! We'll help him out! I did mine in leisurely day-and-a-half, so a pro should certainly be able to pull it off in a day. The biggest time sucker will be if you have a frozen nut/stud. Undo an engine mount and rotate the motor up about an inch and it works. The other PITA which isn't a big deal if you plan for it is to relo the O2 sensor wiring. On the PS you have to undo the two forward clips on the O2 sensor wiring to give the cable enough slack (and then zip-tie them back down). The DS is similar, but the harness is fed from the rear so not as much of a big deal.

 

[pzengilowski]

Have your mechanic log in! We'll help him out! I did mine in leisurely day-and-a-half, so a pro should certainly be able to pull it off in a day. The biggest time sucker will be if you have a frozen nut/stud. Undo an engine mount and rotate the motor up about an inch and it works. The other PITA which isn't a big deal if you plan for it is to relo the O2 sensor wiring. On the PS you have to undo the two forward clips on the O2 sensor wiring to give the cable enough slack (and then zip-tie them back down). The DS is similar, but the harness is fed from the rear so not as much of a big deal.

Thanks, I'm pulling all the tips I can from this post and will put them together for them. The good news is they "get it" that they can do this through the wheel wells and have had good experience with Doug Thorley products in the past, so I'm optimistic. Biggest worry will be how badly the nuts are corroded since it's an '01 LX470 and has lived in Mass and Vermont it's whole life. Planning on liberal applications of PB Blaster over the next week while waiting for the headers to arrive.

 

[1loudLX]

almost all the nuts pulled out the studs on mine, leaving room for fresh nuts and studs

 

[spressomon]

almost all the nuts pulled out the studs on mine, leaving room for fresh nuts and studs

Ditto. I recommend having all the studs and nuts on hand just in case...especially if they look even slightly corroded. You can always return the ones you don't need.

 

[Brock]

So from what I have read it does not appear the consensus is any real improvement over stock. Most write ups talk about maybe a slight improvement but nothing very noticeable. Is this still the case with everyone...are the oem headers that good? Maybe I will just go magnaflow and some new pipe from cats back and call it good.

 

[OregonLC]

So from what I have read it does not appear the consensus is any real improvement over stock. Most write ups talk about maybe a slight improvement but nothing very noticeable. Is this still the case with everyone...are the oem headers that good? Maybe I will just go magnaflow and some new pipe from cats back and call it good.

The OEM headers are horrible from a flow standpoint. The Tundra data shows significant improvement in power. This should also translate into efficiency (MPG). I added tires at about the same time so I don't have any data to back this up.

With the LC, you're going from 10.XX 0-60 time to 10.X (because of the weight) so it doesn't feel like you've transformed it into a rocket.

Top is DT, bottom is OEM

Another showing OEM is not much of a tuned system.

 

[OregonLC]

Oh, and one more tip: I removed the dipstick. Very easy to do and makes for easy access to removing the OEM headers. The stick MUST be reinstalled BEFORE the DT's go on or you're either up for a re-do of the DS or a very painful experience.

This shows the bolt holding the dipstick in place.

With the DT's in, sans stick.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

So from what I have read it does not appear the consensus is any real improvement over stock. Most write ups talk about maybe a slight improvement but nothing very noticeable. Is this still the case with everyone...are the oem headers that good? Maybe I will just go magnaflow and some new pipe from cats back and call it good.

My experience with headers is that you don't notice a big improvement after putting them on. It's AFTER taking them off and going back to stock when you really notice a difference. Of course, my experience only applies to domestic V-8's.

 

[pzengilowski]

Installation tips

I sorted through the posts and compiled this list of tips/suggestions for installing the headers. I plan to give this to the shope doing the installs and hope that you folks can help make sure it's right. Hopefully, it'll also be helpful for anybody that does this in the future.

Thanks.[FONT=&quot]
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[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One tool that will make the whole job alot easier a 14mm 3/4 length impact swivel socket, it is a regular swivel socket but the actual socket is sized in between a regular (shallow) and deep.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Order new manifold gaskets, cat converter gaskets, 16 manifold studs and nuts[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Order new pre-cat 02 sensors?[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Remove the heat shield before removing the oem manifold[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Remove the dipstick before removing the oem manifold[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Undo the two forward clips on the passenger side O2 sensor wiring to give the cable enough slack to pull the factory harness rear toward the relo'd O2 sensor then zip tie to hard tubing running along block.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
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[FONT=&quot]Undo the two brackets bolted to the block which hold the driver side O2 harness. The harness comes from up by the starter, so just snake it back under the heat shield and you have plenty of room. Install driver side O2 sensor after the header is in place then zip tie it to another bundle[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Remove both the two 14mm lower engine mount bolts plus the top 17mm bolt and rotate the enginehttps://forum.ih8mud.com/ up about an inch [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Replace the dipstick before installing the DT headers[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Consider removing the steering shaft. Two 12mm bolts on the top and one on the bottom. You need to pull the front skid plate to get to the bottom shaft clamp, but it's an easy removal. Once loose, slide it up toward the firewall to get it off the rack, then back forward to slide it off the column. One end of the coupling slides, the other is fixed. It slides up toward the firewall. The shaft side is fixed. You do, of course, need to remove the bolts completely from the firewall side of the coupling and the rack end of the shaft as there is a notch the bolt slides through. To get a good slide, I also loosened the shaft-side bolt on the coupling. To get it off the rack you do need to articulate the u-joint just a little.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Clean all splines and lube them with some medium weight grease. Install the coupling on the shaft while out of the vehicle. Where the shaft meets the coupling next to the firewall, it will only go into a single clock position. If you look on the coupling, there is a slot on the back side (opposite the split) and I think it may be keyed. So to index it, you leave the upper coupling bolt undone (which allows sliding) and you clock it at the rack.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Put the bolt in but only finger tight. Install the shaft, slipping the coupling onto the firewall splines first, making sure there is smooth up-down travel (don't forget the thrust washer! This will prevent the shaft from coming into the cabin and saying 'hi' in an accident!). Don't put in the upper bolt yet. Crawl underneath, push the shaft from below as far toward the firewall as she will go while articulating the u-joint slightly above the rack splines and then guide them down on to the rack. Install the lower bolt and then the upper, tightening all three.[/FONT]

 

[FullyLitLED]

Need. Headers. Now

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Will these work on all years? Specifically a 2006

 

[FullyLitLED]

Will these work on all years? Specifically a 2006

yes, 98-07 aka all years

 

[lexi4darin]

Anyone have Nicks' number? I don't know who this is. And I already have the start of a manifold leak (gasket or otherwise).

I want to buy parts now, especially while they're cheap, and do the build this summer. Ugh, I've got an AHC issue going on too. Love this truck but hate when things go wrong.

 

[pzengilowski]

Anyone have Nicks' number? I don't know who this is. And I already have the start of a manifold leak (gasket or otherwise).

I want to buy parts now, especially while they're cheap, and do the build this summer. Ugh, I've got an AHC issue going on too. Love this truck but hate when things go wrong.

Nick Thompson

Doug Thorley Headers

Sales Manager - International/Domestic

1220 W. Railroad St.

Corona, CA 92882

Toll Free: (800) 347-8664

Direct: (951) 739-5903

Cell: (951) 733-8658

Fax: (951) 273-3616

 

[lexi4darin]

Excellent.


How is everyone liking the performance of these headers? Anyone have an idea as to the quality based on thickness, weld joints, etc? There was some company that did a group buy on ClubLexus for the GS430, and all the headers cracked in 6 months so it was pretty sad.

 

[OregonLC]

Excellent.


How is everyone liking the performance of these headers? Anyone have an idea as to the quality based on thickness, weld joints, etc? There was some company that did a group buy on ClubLexus for the GS430, and all the headers cracked in 6 months so it was pretty sad.

Look at the pics in post 674. They're excellent quality. Thick material, great welds. These will not break.


Post 674 Link