Group Buy - 100 Series Headers (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter uzj100
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I'm now very optimistic! My mission today was to replace the PS inboard CV band, but my curiosity (and lack of patience!) got to me and I started some 'pre work' on the headers. I haven't even ordered the gaskets yet.
Pulled the fender liner off, the heat shield off, and to my surprise, the first three nuts loosened with a 14mm box-open!
Now I need to go get the rest of the parts and some wobble sockets for the hard to reach ones. I'm pumped!
Pulled the fender liner off, the heat shield off, and to my surprise, the first three nuts loosened with a 14mm box-open!
Now I need to go get the rest of the parts and some wobble sockets for the hard to reach ones. I'm pumped!
Okay got the headers on for $525 from Offroad Warehouse off Balboa Ave in San Diego. I told them that it could take longer than the hrs calculated and didn't want to pay anymore, so they said no problem. Luckily from me I spent the last three week spraying the heck out of the bolts. X2 on the mid-rpm power but not much at high speed.
Are we limited to OEM hardware for replacement of non-reusable parts, such as the gaskets? I'd sure like to replace with copper gaskets if possible. Anyone know?
I would contact Cometic in Ohio and see if they have anything or if they would be willing to make something up for the 2UZ crowd.
If there is enough interest, Cometic will make you anything that is gasket material.
They do the oversize HG's for 1FZ's for folks going .1 over or adding SC or turbo.
Before you have something custom made, at least look at the OEM gaskets at the dealer. They almost all stock them, and I think you will agree that they are of very high quality metal, and only $35. In fact, Doug Thorley said to just reuse them.
Ok, so now it's time to give a thumbs-up or thumbs-down.
After a few weeks of driving for those of you who have installed them, would you honestly say that it was worth $540 + shipping + 480-$800 for install? Please compare this to only spending $200-$400 to pull a single OEM manifold, weld it up, and re-install it on the truck.
The only difference between the two options is ~$600-$1000 in cost and the reported gains.
I'm curious if it's worth the $, to be honest...
After a few weeks of driving for those of you who have installed them, would you honestly say that it was worth $540 + shipping + 480-$800 for install? Please compare this to only spending $200-$400 to pull a single OEM manifold, weld it up, and re-install it on the truck.
The only difference between the two options is ~$600-$1000 in cost and the reported gains.
I'm curious if it's worth the $, to be honest...
I think its worth it if the OEM manifold is cracked but not if you are just replacing a good OEM manifold for more power.
2x on Mtnracer's opinion. I had a leak that was quoted at 900 labor to fix with replacing only the one side. So my fix was going to be over $1000. The headers cost me a little more than that but I got better performance, both sides fixed and the ability to add "DT Headers" to my sig. The "feel" is much better on my truck, NVH seems decreased and usable pick up is better. Plus they are cool.
I'm 3/4 of the way done with a DIY. PS is replaced. DS header nuts are off, but one of the collector bolts is frozen and I've sheared all of my 3/8" extensions. Taking a break, going for a run, then up to Sears. Will post a DIY pictorial when she's done. I'm pumped!
We're on the same page today! I also have the PS header mounted and ready to start the DS. But what did you do about the O2 sensor wire being too short on the passenger side (DT repositioned the O2 sensor port on the header...)? I can certainly lengthen the wires but don't remember anyone mentioning this issue.
Ya, what a bugger that was! The wire toward the front has a lot of slack if you remove it from the forward engine clip and the clip where it turns vertical. Once you remove it from those two it has plenty of slack and you can zip tie it to the pipes running along the frame. At the front of the engine, just re-clip the bundle into the open clip.
How were your header nuts? Mine were easy. It's the collector bolts that are a mother bear!
I ended up removing the steering shaft to help with the driver's side along with jacking the engine up about an inch. If you remove the two engine mount bolts, you can jack the engine from below. I made a hillbilly block which fits up at the back of the pan and is held up by a 2nd floor jack.
The other fun part was getting access to the nuts on the new PS header! The only thing that I could use on a couple of them was a 14mm box/open. It's much tighter with the new header!
Have fun! I may be done for the night as the pregnant wife is in need of some 'quality time', so I'll probably finish after church tomorrow.
Thanks...I hadn't traced the wiring for slack! The nuts were rusted but all studs just backed out with my 3/8" impact gun. I have enough studs to replace all. Yes the tubes on the DT headers do require a number of wrenches (14mm ratcheting stubby, angle ratchet, straight ratchet, crows foot, swivels and a myriad of extensions) to get in there. And even at that there are a couple I'd like to get just a smidgen tighter but the limited space limits wrench leverage...
Although not impossible the DT's definitely will take alot more time to replace an O2 sensor
. All in all the PS was relatively easy and straightforward. Not expecting that on the DS 
Better be worth it!
Thanks...I hadn't traced the wiring for slack! The nuts were rusted but all studs just backed out with my 3/8" impact gun. I have enough studs to replace all. Yes the tubes on the DT headers do require a number of wrenches (14mm ratcheting stubby, angle ratchet, straight ratchet, crows foot, swivels and a myriad of extensions) to get in there. And even at that there are a couple I'd like to get just a smidgen tighter but the limited space limits wrench leverage...
Although not impossible the DT's definitely will take alot more time to replace an O2 sensor
Better be worth it!
Dang, how'd you get an impact in there? I did all of the PS from the hood side and all of the DS from the fender well. I did use a deep impact socket, but driven by one of these Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands
But putting the PS DT's on had to be done from inside the well and under the truck. I actually think the DS DT's will be easier because of that big bend it makes to clear the steering shaft gives more space.
I'm wondering if I shouldn't just replace the upper O2's now than fight them later. I put some anti-seize on all of the threads (including the O2) but it won't be a fun one to take out later!
I used a 1/2" impact with about a 20" extender with various flex impact sockets and/or regular flex joint mostly accessed from underneath. And for the tighter nuts I used 3/8" impact with extender bars. For those two tough to access nuts on the PS DT I had to use four different spanner ratchet wrenches (stubby, flex regular, off-set and straight) to get them on and tightened.
I inserted the PS header, probably like you did, from the rear side...flexed the CAT pipe out of the way for clearance. All in all it only took me about 2-hours to complete and I was happy with that especially considering it was the first time.
But I'm not looking forward to those front side driver's side nuts tomorrow.
What I saved in labor by doing it myself I used for new tools I've previously not needed
. Oh well.
I inserted the PS header, probably like you did, from the rear side...flexed the CAT pipe out of the way for clearance. All in all it only took me about 2-hours to complete and I was happy with that especially considering it was the first time.
But I'm not looking forward to those front side driver's side nuts
tomorrow.What I saved in labor by doing it myself I used for new tools I've previously not needed
. Oh well.
FYI: I called my local shop that does my A/C and alignment work for a back-up plan just in case this job went ugly south. They quoted a combined 16.5 hours to both sides . Whatever rate book they used must have included pulling the engine .
. Whatever rate book they used must have included pulling the engine .
I used a 1/2" impact with about a 20" extender with various flex impact sockets and/or regular flex joint mostly accessed from underneath. And for the tighter nuts I used 3/8" impact with extender bars. For those two tough to access nuts on the PS DT I had to use four different spanner ratchet wrenches (stubby, flex regular, off-set and straight) to get them on and tightened.
I inserted the PS header, probably like you did, from the rear side...flexed the CAT pipe out of the way for clearance. All in all it only took me about 2-hours to complete and I was happy with that especially considering it was the first time.
But I'm not looking forward to those front side driver's side nuts
What I saved in labor by doing it myself I used for new tools I've previously not needed
That's funny that we think the same way. Whether it's a house project or a vehicle project I have always figured that the saved labor pays for whatever tools I need. I don't by snap-on, but I do buy quality stuff (no 'harbor freight specials').
But it's really more than that: 9 times out of 10 I end up with a better job than hiring it out plus for me 'hobby wrenching' is a labor of love. I left the garage doors open and had a good time stopping to converse with the 'real men' of the neighborhood who stopped by to talk.
Just to make it easy, I disconnected the rear O2 and pulled the Cat pipe all the way out. I must say, I'm very impressed with both the wall thickness and end connections of the Toyota exhaust.
I started at about 10:00 and stopped about 4:00, but in that time I also replaced the hood struts, organized my tool box, visited, had lunch, and got the DS 95% free. So I should have maybe another 3 hours today. So far I'm very glad I made this a DIY. Still debating about the O2 replacement now or later though. PS will be a bugger someday, especially if the threads get tight over time!
FYI: I called my local shop that does my A/C and alignment work for a back-up plan just in case this job went ugly south. They quoted a combined 16.5 hours to both sides
You'll do fine as long as you don't snap a stud. I bet you were pleasantly surprised when they backed out of the block rather than snapping.
The trick on the DS is pulling the steering shaft. Makes a world of difference. Two 12mm bolts on the top and one on the bottom. You need to pull the front skid plate to get to the bottom shaft clamp, but it's an easy removal. Once loose, slide it up toward the firewall to get it off the rack, then back forward to slide it off the column.
Yes! Fortunately I just replaced, earlier this year, the steering shafts, bolts and nuts apart of the steering rack R&R so it should come out without any rust related issues
.Ditto on the reasons for working on my/our own junk!
Yes! Fortunately I just replaced, earlier this year, the steering shafts, bolts and nuts apart of the steering rack R&R so it should come out without any rust related issues
Ditto on the reasons for working on my/our own junk!
Ok, quick update: DS is on! I'm on the home stretch!
Some comments:
1) you won't get the heat shield out until you remove the header.
2) definitely remove the steering shaft.
3) you need to removed both the two 14mm lower engine mount bolts plus the top 17mm bolt. I tried just the two lower and the header won't clear the mount which would still be attached to engine. If you remove just the 17mm, the mount grinds the 17mm threads.
4) install DS O2 after the header is in place. won't go in installed.
Back to buttoning it back up. Haven't yet looked at O2 cabling to see if DS has the same problem. Good luck!
