I just paid $44 for the two exhaust manifold gaskets. The part number is the same for left and right side.
You can get them for $35 plus shipping on line if you look.
Group Buy - 100 Series Headers (14 Viewers)
- Thread starter uzj100
- Start date
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You can get them for $35 plus shipping on line if you look.
Anyone doing theirs this weekend? I'm at least two weekends out before I have free time! 
Anyone doing theirs this weekend? I'm at least two weekends out before I have free time!
Not me...your timeline is about the same as mine darn it anyway
Mine goes in to 4 wheel parts and performance on wednesday. They have stuck by their $480 estimate and say it will go up to 600 if they have to remove the intake manifold (which they wont). I bought upstream o2 sensors and new gaskets to take in with it. They don't seem to be very fazed by the concept.
I will let you know how it goes.
I will let you know how it goes.
Sacramento nor cal mechanic
Looking for a sacramento/norcal mechanic to do my install..
Does anyone have a good shop to handle this?
Looking for a sacramento/norcal mechanic to do my install..
Does anyone have a good shop to handle this?
Anyone know of a good shop to get the headers installed in South Florida (Broward County)?
Just placed a call to Nick and he's on vacation till next Monday. Hope I can still get in on this.
If Sonoma is not too far for you, Mudrak has one the best Norcal reps for Cruiser work.
MCC - Mudrak Custom Cruiser
You might try S & H Four Wheel Drive on Arden Way, have friends that had their Airlockers installed there and were happy.
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So FINALLY I have no tick, tick, tick....
Headers were installed today w/ total time of about 4 hours. The guys at DT Headers were nice enough to install mine since they used my truck to create the production set. They said that they did not disconnect the steering, but did have to disconnect the bolts on the drivers side engine mount and raise it an inch or so to slip the header in. One bolt sheered off from the collector plate by the O2 sensor, not on the engine. So no big deal, but have some bolts and nuts handy if you want cheap insurance and to save a run to the parts store. The gasket was definitely resuable but I had him install $40 bucks worth of new ones just to be sure. The installer thought this would be 4 hours for an expert, 6 hour job for a first time tech, and more for DIYer.
Couple of observations:
1) Before I started on this project, and years of complaining my Toyota Dealer tech confirmed he had heard a tick tick tick from the passenger side header but that it was not that bad. He used a sound scope of some kind to check it and verified the source of the sound. After the install today when we looked at the stock header we could find no obvious cracks. There was some minor blow-by on the gasket but it was unclear from looking at the old gaskets where the tick tick tick was coming from. All I can say is that there is no more stupid diesel tick and I am ecstatic!
2) I did not have time to put the truck on a dyno off site and then take it back after the install. DT Headers does not have a 4 wheel dyno and after consulting with several Toyota contacts they were told that the Tundra 4.7 and this LC 4.7 will not have any material difference in performance lift. Although it would have been nice to document someone else will have to do it. The dyno sheet for the 4.7 has been posted on this thread and is on line at DT Headers site if people want to see it. All one has to do is look at the stock headers vs these new ones and you will not need proof. They may be the worst design for performance ever!
3) My initial thought on performance was very good. Seemed more responsive from the start but since 99% were on the freeway I could not tell a major difference, but definitely was difference. I did this project to stop that god awful sound so any performance gain was a huge bonus. They have sold a bunch of these in the past two weeks so we should start getting plenty of real life feedback.
Headers were installed today w/ total time of about 4 hours. The guys at DT Headers were nice enough to install mine since they used my truck to create the production set. They said that they did not disconnect the steering, but did have to disconnect the bolts on the drivers side engine mount and raise it an inch or so to slip the header in. One bolt sheered off from the collector plate by the O2 sensor, not on the engine. So no big deal, but have some bolts and nuts handy if you want cheap insurance and to save a run to the parts store. The gasket was definitely resuable but I had him install $40 bucks worth of new ones just to be sure. The installer thought this would be 4 hours for an expert, 6 hour job for a first time tech, and more for DIYer.
Couple of observations:
1) Before I started on this project, and years of complaining my Toyota Dealer tech confirmed he had heard a tick tick tick from the passenger side header but that it was not that bad. He used a sound scope of some kind to check it and verified the source of the sound. After the install today when we looked at the stock header we could find no obvious cracks. There was some minor blow-by on the gasket but it was unclear from looking at the old gaskets where the tick tick tick was coming from. All I can say is that there is no more stupid diesel tick and I am ecstatic!
2) I did not have time to put the truck on a dyno off site and then take it back after the install. DT Headers does not have a 4 wheel dyno and after consulting with several Toyota contacts they were told that the Tundra 4.7 and this LC 4.7 will not have any material difference in performance lift. Although it would have been nice to document someone else will have to do it. The dyno sheet for the 4.7 has been posted on this thread and is on line at DT Headers site if people want to see it. All one has to do is look at the stock headers vs these new ones and you will not need proof. They may be the worst design for performance ever!
3) My initial thought on performance was very good. Seemed more responsive from the start but since 99% were on the freeway I could not tell a major difference, but definitely was difference. I did this project to stop that god awful sound so any performance gain was a huge bonus. They have sold a bunch of these in the past two weeks so we should start getting plenty of real life feedback.
- Thread starter
- #532
Guys,
Has anyone done this by themselves yet? I am getting to tear into this project, hopefully this weekend. The tic tic is killing me. Anyone know the exact tool being used to move the motor 1 inch? Hopefully i can use a small bottle jack. I will take pictures and let you know what happens.
uzj100
Has anyone done this by themselves yet? I am getting to tear into this project, hopefully this weekend. The tic tic is killing me. Anyone know the exact tool being used to move the motor 1 inch? Hopefully i can use a small bottle jack. I will take pictures and let you know what happens.
uzj100
I bet the shops are using an engine hoist.
I was hoping to use an old scissor jack i have lying around and then brace it with wood blocks between the case and the frame. Don't know how practical this is...
NMuzj100,
Are you getting these? I'm contemplating them for myself & wouldn't mind helping with the install. PM me if you'd like to get together.
Ken
Are you getting these? I'm contemplating them for myself & wouldn't mind helping with the install. PM me if you'd like to get together.
Ken
And so it begins. Got a call three hours into the install from 4wparts performance. They could not get the manifold bolts off on the DS. They wanted me to come see for myself before they started really torqueing the bolts. They claimed the aluminum engine block? would not take too much heat or torque. WHen I got out of my hearing I went over there and took a look. PO had obviously had the PS done once before. DS was rust locked and nasty looking. They were selling me on the 90K service if they had to tear don the engine after breaking a stud. Service writer started talking about the headers being a $700 job, we shall see what tomorrow brings.
its not aluminum...put a magnet on it.
Great. This does not bode well for me being in Chicago, as we have similar rust conditions as you do in Cleveland.
Good luck and hope nothing breaks. Please keep updating.
OK, they told me they got the nuts off and that it is now done. This means that the studs must have been reused since they claimed that the studs were back ordered and would not be here for a week if they broke them or could not reuse them. I don't have an adjusted price yet, and I do not intend to pay any more than the agreed upon $480 but I assume that there will be some spirited discussions tomorrow (I am not in the habit of losing these types of discussions). I will let everyone know how the butt-dyno testing goes.
