Grounds/alternator cable upgrade? (1 Viewer)

[Fattyeighty]

Hello,
I searched the forum and could not find any detailed write ups about upgrading alternator/ground cables.
On some of the cables the sheath is damaged exposing the copper strands. I don't think anyone over here would even attempt to make new cables so I'll have to do it myself.
Some of them seem straight forward i.e. remove old cable, measure and crimp new cables.
However I believe the alternator cable or some other cable has fusible links attached to it. What would you do? Leave it alone or bypass it? Use an ANS fuse or something?
Many thanks

 

[ERG80]

You can definitely measure and crimp your own cables for most of the wires. Make sure to research the proper gauge for the lengths you need.
Search the photoman upgraded alternator thread for details on running a new alternator wire and disconnecting the factory alternator wire from the fuseable link bundle. It would work for your needs even without an upgraded alternator. Again please research the proper wire gauge and fuse size which would best protect your cruiser. I did the bypass and it works well for me.

This vendor builds upgraded cables and has international shipping if you prefer a quality kit.

FZJ80 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets

I have been offering this kit for FJ60/FJ62 and FJ80 and have put together a similar kit for the FZJ80's. The kit costs $145.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available (please PM me). The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. Kit includes: Battery to starter...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ERG80]

Post #22

Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp

You know, I'm really not picky, either one of those will do just fine. Just in case I still have brackets and connectors available. As soon as it gets a little warmer I probably will make another batch since I still have the jig on the machine. Just PM me. Bill

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Fattyeighty]

You can definitely measure and crimp your own cables for most of the wires. Make sure to research the proper gauge for the lengths you need.
Search the photoman upgraded alternator thread for details on running a new alternator wire and disconnecting the factory alternator wire from the fuseable link bundle. It would work for your needs even without an upgraded alternator. Again please research the proper wire gauge and fuse size which would best protect your cruiser. I did the bypass and it works well for me.

This vendor builds upgraded cables and has international shipping if you prefer a quality kit.

FZJ80 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets

I have been offering this kit for FJ60/FJ62 and FJ80 and have put together a similar kit for the FZJ80's. The kit costs $145.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available (please PM me). The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. Kit includes: Battery to starter...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you for the prompt reply.
I will read the thread for the relevant info.
The kit does seem like nice quality but I have everything available including a hydraulic crimper.
I will be using 35mm^2 sq double insulated welding wire which is equivalent to 2 AWG. I also have 2/0 available (70mm^2 sq) but I don't think there will be any appreciable difference between them.
Thanks once again

 

[ppc]

The 3 fusible links which are easily replaced with OEM for ~$15 are completely separate from the battery cables.

 

[Cruzerman]

I have used welding wire in the past and would not recommend it. My experience was that it wicked in moisture and started to corrode the copper wire inside the insulation. I would use tinned marine battery cable instead.

 

[jksinton]

I just replaced my engine block ground cable and starter cable. The stock gauge for those two are 2Ga, but I bumped both of them up to 1Ga and put in military style battery terminals.

Del City is the place to get electrical components. Welding cable is definitely affordable, but it's insulation is not designed to withstand the heat and fluids for automotive applications. SGX cable has a more durable insulation designed for automotive applications. The caveat is that SGX cable is not very flexible.

Here's a screenshot of the items I ordered from Del City:

I picked up soldering lugs, but didn't end up using them. I just crimped the lugs to the cables with a hammer lug crimper (about $20 on Amazon).

 

[Fattyeighty]

The 3 fusible links which are easily replaced with OEM for ~$15 are completely separate from the battery cables.

Thank you for your reply. I guess I'll buy new ones and leave them as is.

I have used welding wire in the past and would not recommend it. My experience was that it wicked in moisture and started to corrode the copper wire inside the insulation. I would use tinned marine battery cable instead.

The welding cable I'll be using has a NBR jacket.. Most cables I've seen from the USA are EPDM jackets. I only found tinned copper cables in 250 ft rolls and they would not sell by the foot.
I'll give the NBR welding cable a try.

I just replaced my engine block ground cable and starter cable. The stock gauge for those two are 2Ga, but I bumped both of them up to 1Ga and put in military style battery terminals.

Del City is the place to get electrical components. Welding cable is definitely affordable, but it's insulation is not designed to withstand the heat and fluids for automotive applications. SGX cable has a more durable insulation designed for automotive applications. The caveat is that SGX cable is not very flexible.

Here's a screenshot of the items I ordered from Del City:
View attachment 2052514

I picked up soldering lugs, but didn't end up using them. I just crimped the lugs to the cables with a hammer lug crimper (about $20 on Amazon).

I don't think I'll find SGX cable in Kuwait so I'll try NBR jacketed welding cable.
Thank you very much for the detailed reply! It will sure save me a couple of trips to the hardware store looking for lugs.
I guess I underestimated the size of the cable and will use 2/0 for the starter and engine ground if I can find the space.