- Thread starter
- #41
I was stuck in 80 series world. Forgot I was dealing with the 100. That definitely wont work. Thanks for snapping me back to reality.
Grenaded front diff! Now what?
- Thread starter bhicks
- Start date
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Right but what the rear third member with locker would would do is allow you to save money on rear gears and have a locker. You would still have to change out the fronts to a 4.3 ratio (which is a match for pre 03) and install a locker in the front if that's the route you wanted to go. Just throwing out another option.
- Thread starter
- #43
I got ahold of Just differentials and was informed that the truetrac I referenced earlier will not work in a 100. Had something to do with having the wrong bearings. So my options are an OEM limited slip(probably no more effective than A-trac) or selectable locker which is out of the budget. A complete drop in ready 3rd member with OEM LS and 4.10 gears is right around $2300 minus the $500 core charge which puts me at an eventual total of $1800. I can get go the simple route and just get some Nitro 4.10 gears (in stock) and Install kit for $500 OR just buy a complete used 3rd member for $500. Too many options but I need to make my decision today. I will let you guys know what I do and how the install goes.
Did you look into Kaiser front LSD? Buddys run'm in 80 and D110s
I *think* you only got OEM LSD in the rear of 98-99 LX470, and that was optional. Sorry to mess with your head more.
- Thread starter
- #46
I'm just going off what Just Diffs told me. They said that the OEM LSD will fit into my 03 LX470 carrier without issue. The cost difference between the open diff and LSD was like $80 so I figured I might as well. I asked about any other options and the Kaiser was never mentioned. I will look into it.
Don't put a bunch of cash into putting it back the way it was, if you're building it up for wheeing then a front locker should be high on the list of early mods. I think some of the shops that do a lot of these keep the stock gears on hand for this kind of situation so you should be able to find them.
Your cheapest correct option IMO is used stock gears on an ARB, TJM, or Haroop selective locker carrier.
Replacing with stock will just put it off until it happens again, don't forget the old saying; "fast, cheap or good, pick 2".
Sorry you're in a bind, no fun...
Your cheapest correct option IMO is used stock gears on an ARB, TJM, or Haroop selective locker carrier.
Replacing with stock will just put it off until it happens again, don't forget the old saying; "fast, cheap or good, pick 2".
Sorry you're in a bind, no fun...
- Thread starter
- #48
I do plan to wheel this 100 but nothing like I wheeled my 80. I am already in the hunt for a beater 80 to do the extreme wheeling. This 100 will see mild trails and snow. Right now I have to go with the "budget" version. I'm thinking of just dropping in a used open carrier with factory 4.10 ring gear already installed and a rebuild kit for a few hundred and doing the 4.88's and ARBs in a couple years. If the trutrac would have worked then I may have gone that route, but it's a no go and there is just no other option right now that will work for my needs AND stay within what I can afford. My long term plan is 4.88s and ARB's in about two years and I think stock used parts will get me through until then. I at least now know the limitations of the front diff and will be much more gentle on the skinny peddle next time. This coming tax return is already spoken for so it will all have to wait until the following return. I just need this 100 back on the road quickly. My little commuter car can't cut it in the winter and for a family of 5.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
To get back on the road for the least $$, this is likely the best approach. You can do lockers and gears when the panic subsides. Now you know just how fragile that front end is, and can drive accordingly.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #50
I was quite surprised how easy it was to break the front diff. I ran the same size ring and pinion in my 80 and wheeled it WAY harder and never broke anything. I'm scratching my head on why the 100 broke. Next time I will be a lot more careful and will not be rocking it back and forth in reverse and forward.
My understanding is with the IFS design the carrier flexes more under stress and the ring along with pinion bind. A stronger carrier (ARB,TJM) helps but the ring gear size is still nowhere near as strong as the rear.
Maybe a dumb question, but can you still drive with the front diff gears blown?
Yes. Thread in FAQ and a dozen others on how to.
- Thread starter
- #54
Yes and no. You can't just blow the ring gear and then keep on driving. The open tcase will send ALL of the power to the front to those blown gears and a bad situation gets a lot worse. I had to lock the tcase to get power going to the rear wheels. That gave me enough 2WD rear power to limp up to the HWY where a tow truck was able to get me. there was some horrible grinding, popping, and crunching going on the entire time from the front end. If I was way out away from civilization, I would have had to yank the front driveshaft and remove the outer axle flanges. That would have fully removed the front diff/drivetrain from the driveline equation. I then would keep the tcase locked and drive home in rear 2WD. That was not needed since I was so close to the HWY. Might as well use AAA since I'm already paying for their service.
Ahh okay. Thanks for the info! I figured you'd have to pull the shaft and flanges to drive a decent distance, but was really wondering if it just completely immobilized the vehicle right were its grenades or if you could limp some distance. Thanks for answering that.
- Thread starter
- #56
For a final update on parts. I have figured out all the broken parts and ordered accordingly. The ring gear had 8 total missing or damaged teeth. The pinion had two badly damaged gears on it. So they are both toast. The carrier had a ton of metal pieces down in it so it's getting replaced. I was able to track down a used open carrier for free from a buddy with a 100 that recently went to ARBs. I ordered the Nitro 4.10 ring and pinion from Just Differentials (worked with Dean). I also ordered the axle rebuild kit and the solid sleeve to remove the weak crush sleeve. My CV boots got torn on the ice so I went ahead and also ordered all new inner and outer CV boots. My total for parts is right around $700. Not horrible.
Are you going to do the labor yourself? If not, how much do you think thats going to run you?
- Thread starter
- #58
I would if I could but driving it home in 2WD isn't really an option and the snow at my place is terrible. I converted my garage to a 3D printing workshop last summer which means I have to do the work on my snow covered driveway. that's not going to happen. If this broke in the summer then I would be taking a totally different approach to the repair. My shop I use is quoting me $750 to install all the parts I ordered today. I feel that is quite fair. That also includes the tear down and diagnosis they already did.
I will help out in the not too distant future by purchasing some "TEQ" 100 badges 
Good luck!
Good luck!- Thread starter
- #60
I thought my updates/questions were over but unfortunately the story continues. I picked up the 100 about an hour ago. Mechanic said he drove it around and everything sounded perfect. I paid for the work and started the drive home. Everything sounded quiet and worked normal. I started the long drive up into the mtns. where I live. Most of the driving is up hill so I was on the accelerator most of the time. There is one section that is down hill and my problem began. As soon as I took my foot off the gas as I began the down hill part I got a weird humming sound. Sounded like a mixture off really knobby offrorad tires and an exhaust brake from a desiel. If I stepped on the gas the sound immediately went away. I continued to drive up the hill then decided to head back down and the sound remained. The faster I was going the louder it was. At 65mph down hill coasting with zero acceleration, it sounded horrible. At 25-35mph coasting to a red light it's barely noticeable. So what did the mechanic do wrong? I'm assuming something has been tightened down too tight. Maybe the torque on the main bearing that is up against the 3rd member where the driveshaft enters? I will definitely have to take it back but the shop closed early today due to the holiday. It will have to wait until tomorrow. I had confidence in this shop because they did the gears on my TJ and XJ a few years ago with zero issues. The TJ with 4.88s has almost 100k on the gears they installed.