Greasable birfield CV joints done

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I see some concern regarding grease getting into the diff...we use PRV's or breather tubes instead of the square nuts, the tube mounts can be drilled thru the inner fenders or tied in at your discretion.

PRV's or tubes will eliminate your concern about pressurising the knuckle cavity. We use the systems only to ensure that grease in the knuckles and is visual.
 
Squash: do you have the details on the type Pressure Release Valve's (PRV's) that you use; model, size/thread(?3/8-19 British Standard Pipe Tapered??) manufacturer, what psi they open at?? Any photos of the PRV or how you connect a breather tube to the inspection/fill port?
 
Squash: do you have the details on the type Pressure Release Valve's (PRV's) that you use; model, size/thread(?3/8-19 British Standard Pipe Tapered??) manufacturer, what psi they open at?? Any photos of the PRV or how you connect a breather tube to the inspection/fill port?

eh! you could connect a tube to the pressure relief valve and bring the extra grease to something else that needs it! and before too long the whole truck is greased from the Birfs... Just may take some thinking to get the prop shafts connected... :)
 
It makes good sense greasing from the inside out than from the outside in..
 
Kernal,
The PRV's come from Gearing Dynamics and replace the square nut. If you cannot source a PRV you can always drill and tap the square nut, some use this tap for a zerk and others intall a tube, the choice is yours. Some units grease from the axle zerk as well as the square nut zerk as the picture illustrates, others use small battery powered programable greasing units the choice is yours.

I prrrefer pumping grease till it comes out of the PRV and trust me most cavities will take more than a couple of shots every oil change...

Note the HZJ79 for underground use, same systems as our 80's Lamacoids state 5 pumps of grease daily...
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Squash; Do you know the size and thread type of the zerk fitting that truck in the photo has (it would have to be a long one) and how they attach it through the grease cap, just drill a hole in the grease cap and add a washer to seal it off??
 
You got it...a long zerk and grease cap with a hole and rubber grommet.
8mm thread ? or what evr you choose to tap.

I may have spare caps and zerks so fire of your address and I will try to send them to you.
 
The problem is not lack of grease in the birf or the birf themselves, It's the constant use of all wheel drive.
 
The problem is not lack of grease in the birf or the birf themselves, It's the constant use of all wheel drive.

I do not agree, take a Discovery or Range Rover and there are rarely problems. Look at any front wheel drive car/mpv ect and think about it, only two wheels dragging around all the weight instead of four moving it. Many lorries are permanent 4wd and 6wd and even 8wd and no problems. IMHO I would say lack of regular maintenance and also the turning circle of an 80 which appears to be better than either my Discovery or Range Rover, this puts additional strain on the birfs. Add to this that you can buy stronger versions (longs ect) it would seem the issue is not an insurmountable one. Toyota IMO chose a metal that would give good strength/longevity and this is proven by the millions out there that have no issues with OE versions.

There are also garages that may have replaced the birfs in a lot of our vehicles with the cheapest they could find, the customers know no better and probably never will, that is until the car gets sold on to someone whose driving style/workload is somewhat different.

I have seen dozens of so called garages who have supposedly serviced these cars and have cut corners, not always just to scam/save the customer money but often out of ignorance of the vehicle requirements.

regards

Dave
 
There is no problem with the 80 axle design. It requires occasional maint. That's it!

This is a great idea to extend the life and maint cycle but that doesn't mean there is a problem w/ the original.
 
You need a valve that is 3/8 x 19TPI BSPT (British Standard Pipe-Tapered).
 
The threaded inspection hole in the steering knuckle is 3/8 x 19 TPI BSP-T. There is a company, Gearing Dynamics in Australia, that sells the correct PRV, IIRC $70 for two and about the same amount to ship to the US.
 
I'm too cheap to get them from Oz.
I will just drill/tap the plug or make my own DIY adapter to thread into the knuckle.
Any idea what the pressure relief psi is on the Oz PRV? Do you have the Gearing Dynamics relief plug.
 
1-2 psi IIRC. Not sure if a PRV is absolutely needed unless maybe you plan on completely filling your knuckles like the mines do. I just add a few pumps of grease every few months +/- to make up for the slight amount of normal loss, been doing that for four years now, no problems.
 
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I agree regarding the relief valve. But, for just a few dollars I think I will try it anyways.
 

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