Got stranded at Wally World

[Slow Left]

So I turned my meter off and back on and it beeps on all but B

So, with the Dome light switch 'OFF', on the test we ran...we expect:

1) to hear a beep on A because there is just a wire between the PS (right) side of the Dome fuse slot and point A at the switch...if we did not hear a beep, that would mean that there was a short (a break in the wire and the bare wire touching ground) along that path...but this isn't the case...so we know this path is good and there is no short here.

2) we expect NOT to hear a beep at point B...because with the switch 'OFF', it is open...so there should be no current allowed to flow to B. Since we DID hear a beep at B with the switch 'OFF', we must suspect a short somewhere between A and B..the current is somehow bypassing our closed switch.

3) we expect NOT to hear a beep at point C...because with the switch 'OFF', it is open...so there should be no current allowed to flow to B. Since we did not hear a beep at C, there must not be a short in the switch between A and C

The only thing that would invalidate conclusion 2 is if you accidentally chose a point B that was accidentally touching the middle 'OFF' tab of the switch...

 

[Slow Left]

Haha. Yeah, so next plan of action to do?

Next plan of action is to move on to points D, E, and F on the Cargo Light switch.

You can keep the 'tool' you made in it's exact same spot (because all these Interior Light switches run off that same side of the Dome fuse slot...)

 

[Slow Left]

Same game on the Cargo Light switch.

Make sure it's in the 'OFF' position and then run the Continuity tests.

You might have to put the switch back together somewhat...enough that you can run the tests without accidentally having a contact touch ground...

 

[WhompinFJ]

Just jumped in the back seat to make sure I was accurate and upon double checking B and C do not beep. So that was a mistake on my part

 

[Slow Left]

Just jumped in the back seat to make sure I was accurate and upon double checking B and C do not beep. So that was a mistake on my part

OK. Well either way, we can go back and inspect the 3 contacts with a slightly different approach...running these continuity tests out of the fuse box is allowing us to cover the wires leading up to the switches too...if we just tested the switches first, we might have missed a short there...if there was one...

 

[WhompinFJ]

No matter what switch position this prong always beeps. And I can't find any other beeping

 

[WhompinFJ]

Oops realized i took out the bulb

 

[Slow Left]

R-G...that is only one that should be beeping no matter what position the switch is in...because it is the one coming from the fuse box delivering power to that switch.

I think you are going to have to reinstall the whole light switch back to the roof because I think it has to be together in order to the switch to work properly to test E and F on the other side...

...Oh yeah, the bulb...that too...

EDIT: yeah, putting the bulb in should be enough to run the test...

 

[Slow Left]

R-G?? What's that?

Red wire with Green stripe...it is the Toyota wire color code on the wiring diagram. if you look at the wiring diagram, you will see that the line that represents that wire is labeled R-G...and in real life...over there in Utawh...the wire is actually Red with a Green stripe...it's magic!

 

[WhompinFJ]

I figured it out thanks. The two sides of he light bulb beep when I touch them,but that's all I can find.

 

[Slow Left]

Try this, with the:
Bulb installed
Rear hatch open
Jumper wire removed from it's lead on the DIMM

..and the Rear Cargo Light switch in each of the 3 positions (one at a time of course):
ON
OFF
DOOR

Then dig the free DIMM probe tip (not the one still connected to the empty Dome fuse socket) into the vehicle body...like the DS door jamb...it doesn't matter exactly where, just that it is on a big chunk of bare metal of the vehicle body within reach of the probe tip...and see if the switch in any one of the positions conditions gives a beep or reading from the DIMM

 

[Slow Left]

You might have to actually reinstall the Rear Cargo Light switch back onto the ceiling...

 

[WhompinFJ]

Those last instructions were a little confusing, could you dumb it down for my stupidness?

 

[Slow Left]

Instead of using the 'jumper' wire as an extension to probe at E and F on the Rear Cargo light switch, you are removing the jumper wire from the DIMM probe it is connected to and touching that DIMM probe into the metal of the vehicle body on a door jam within reach.

Do this with the rear hatch open, the bulb installed and the Rear Cargo light switch in each of the 3 positions: ON, OFF and DOOR

because the light switch in the ON and DOOR position grounds through the vehicle body, you should be able to get a reading (either an Ohm value on the screen if it is over 100 Ohms, or a beep if it is under 100 Ohms) because the circuit is completed through the vehicle body.

 

[WhompinFJ]

In this position there is none

 

[WhompinFJ]

Middle position

 

[WhompinFJ]

Same for the far right side.

 

[Slow Left]

OK. Now repeat all three with the Rear Hatch completely closed.

 

[WhompinFJ]

Far right rear hatch closed

 

[WhompinFJ]

Middle rear hatch closed