I have a set of 36" swampers that still in atlanta
for now spring over
next detroit or lock right in back
then longfieds
then pws
then winch
then the 36''
then trailer
ore something like that and front lockers also
No mention of the drum brakes? Has it already been converted to front disks? How are you set for shop space or will we normally see your 40 at Roger's shop for a while? Any chance when you go home for a safari that you might come back with a turbo diesel drive line as a minor upgrade?
It will be great if you start a build thread so we can watch your progress like we get to with Chris.
Looking back at this note and I am "question nag" on your truck. Sorry to be a nag.
Larry I'm here to learn so keep going
I think disk brakes is from 76 so no
their goes another few hundred dollers
The big thing now is the floors, cage The fellow that gonna do it got a shop walking distance from my house He got a 40 in his shop that he but a full to frame cage in and it look good and strong
As you know from the dump truck I dont mind getting dirty ,but I really dont know a lot more that what spanner fit what doing the brakes and new bearing on the 100 was my biggest job yet My brother got over 300 000 miles on his 94 series 80 4.5 diesel his now in bothswana on a safari by the way gas/diesel is aboat 20% cheaper here than back home POOR AFRICANS
Larry I'm here to learn so keep going
I think disk brakes is from 76 so no
their goes another few hundred dollers
The big thing now is the floors, cage The fellow that gonna do it got a shop walking distance from my house He got a 40 in his shop that he but a full to frame cage in and it look good and strong
As you know from the dump truck I dont mind getting dirty ,but I really dont know a lot more that what spanner fit what doing the brakes and new bearing on the 100 was my biggest job yet My brother got over 300 000 miles on his 94 series 80 4.5 diesel his now in bothswana on a safari by the way gas/diesel is aboat 20% cheaper here than back home POOR AFRICANS
Marius, The front disk brakes started with 1976 trucks, so if your 40 has not been upgraded then you have drums on the front. I have found the disks to be easier maintenance, but the drums on the 1969 that I owned a few years back worked fine. I found that the rear (pre-Aug 1980) & front drums worked fine if I kept them adjusted. So once a month, I would adjust all eight cylinders (two per wheel) and the truck would brake hard & true. The truck was my daily driver for several years so I needed for her to have good braking and with regular adjusting she had it.
Overall, the outline of your plan for the truck reflects what we all face and that is limited funds. You appear to be fixing the rust & structural problems first followed by making the truck mechanically first rate with the trail upgrades following in lower priority. This all makes sense to me. In regard to trail upgrades, you may be interested in a perspective that Steve Clevenger shared with me years ago. First add the all-around nerf protection followed by self-recovery (i.e., winch). Next add the lift and the last item to add is the lockers. Steve's attitude is that the lockers can get you into trouble the fastest so add them last after the truck has been slowly been built up. Made sense to me and some day I will need to add the lockers.
Are you going to post more pictures of the rust and repairs as they get worked?
The truck is going in saterday so I,ll get some pics before then and some of the cage in the other 40
I got a poly tank that I got with truck but nobody seams to like them it got a32x10x10 steel tank in it should I just find a good spot to mound it no kids so no jamp seats
Also I can get offroad seat for $175 with out belts ,but why not put some old car bucket seats in it and save some money
The truck is going in saterday so I,ll get some pics before then and some of the cage in the other 40
I got a poly tank that I got with truck but nobody seams to like them it got a32x10x10 steel tank in it should I just find a good spot to mound it no kids so no jamp seats
Also I can get offroad seat for $175 with out belts ,but why not put some old car bucket seats in it and save some money
Is the poly tank the large one or is the poly tank a stock one? I don't care for the poly tanks either. I had a poly fuel cell many years ago in a VW beetle and it bowed in the middle. I had to make some braces for the inside of it. If you want a bigger tank, I would go with the Confer style that goes between the rear frame rails or the longrange under the two front seat style. MAF and SOR sell both but you can often find one used here on the board.
I liked the steel after market tank that Frank Baines got out of Austrailian. It installed under both the passenger and driver seats and held 20+ gallons. The downside was Frank was seated higher that I would like (probably more than he wanted). I don't know if the seat height was unavoidable with this tank or due to how he installed & fab'd the supports for the tank & seats. Other than looking his truck over three years ago at G'smiter, I have not researched this tank further.
Otherwise, just food for thought and new ways to spend your money.
I liked the steel after market tank that Frank Baines got out of Austrailian. It installed under both the passenger and driver seats and held 20+ gallons. The downside was Frank was seated higher that I would like (probably more than he wanted). I don't know if the seat height was unavoidable with this tank or due to how he installed & fab'd the supports for the tank & seats. Other than looking his truck over three years ago at G'smiter, I have not researched this tank further.
Otherwise, just food for thought and new ways to spend your money.
Marius, Will you be using replacement panels from CCOT or some other place? Or will the shop that you are going to be able to fab up the panels for your application?
The rear bed looks like it will be replaced. Did the front floor pans have surface rust or do they have holes too? The wheel wells appeared to be solid. It is hard to tell from the pictures how many panels (areas) have cheese that will need to be cut out. What is your assessment? Once the work starts, you may add to the list as you find things the hard way.
FYI A few years back, I had to replace the drivers floor pan on a tub I have. I used a replacement panel from CCOT. The fit was good enough for me to use it, but it was off enough to require a lot of work and I probably learned a lot from the experience. In the end the replacement panel was a good path, but not a free or easy one. I hope that your shop has experience working with such panels; otherwise you will probably be paying for them to learn how to.
I have seen some of the sheet metal work he did and it looks good .their does not seem to be anny bondo on the outside of the body and I'm not that worried about the sheetmetal as with the 100
Marius, That is very impressive work. Since the tunnel appears to be custom fab'd for your current driveline, is it a reasonable assumption that you will be stay with the stock driveline for your go-forward plans?
One day you will be too
