Goofy Rear E-Locker (1 Viewer)

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1993 FZJ80 ABS etc...

Yes! I searched the archives. I found the solution for the CDL gremlin. In the meantime while playing with the magic switch my rear locker decided to lock up tight....NOTE, Red indicator continued blinking... NO GOOD! I read through the archives and the common question section and got the locer to release via 9V battery. Neat trick thanks.

New problem not found on archives.... CDL light works, when I turn the locker switch to RR the red light blinks. Like the CDL the locker has a position switch. I pulled the plug and used a high tech wire jumper to attempt shorting the switch. The light continued to blink. I assumned this trick, like the CDL would change the state of the light. Light continues to blink steady when postion swith wares are shorted. ??? Should the jumper change the state of the blinkin light? If shorted should the light burn solid??

My assumption; If the ECU does not see a change in state caused by the position switch it will not know when to reverse the wee motor deactivating the e-locker.

So, assume shorting the switch schould result in a solid RED light. Also assume the ECU needs the solid red light to reverse the wee motor to deactivate the locker? Then, what gives...... Is there a fuse for these buggers? What am I missing here.

HALE the archives!!!

Gerg
 
ShreK.

>> What am I missing here <<

You are missing just about everything as far as I can tell.

It is not clear to me that you know how the lockers work, how and when the indicator lights work, and the sequence you should expect.

Go BACK to the archives and read the numerous posts on testing the lockers. I have posted the procedure about 5 times. There is at least one thread in the archives (I replied to Juane) where pictures of all the locker components were posted.

-B-
 
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Shreg-
You might also clearly state your question as the original is a bit confusing. You do know that a blinking light does not indicate that the locker has engaged right? A solid light indicates the engaged locker. Anyhow, HTH. >

Jason
 
Also keep in mind that the blinkiing light works off it's own little sensor that only indicates locked or unlocked. The motors will run regardless. If you want to short it you have to short it at the sensor on the axle.

The rear locker is built a little different than the front and takes a lot more *movement* of the rear wheels to lock and unlock.
Drive in a circle in loose gravel.
Worst case... jack one rear tire up and spin the tire back and forth until the locker unlocks.
 
Klunky Chris said:
Also keep in mind that the blinkiing light works off it's own little sensor that only indicates locked or unlocked. The motors will run regardless. If you want to short it you have to short it at the sensor on the axle.

Thanks for the input.

I did short the sensor at the axle. Did not change the state of the light. Light still blinks.
No, I do not totally know how the lockers work electrically. I took the damn thing apart last night so I got the mechanicale side.

Also, I did search the archives because I have seen the reaction some poor newb gets when they do not. Ideally I would have found every thread known to man in regards to the locker questions. And belive it or not I do not live on the BB. I have found this section very helpful, however, it does not sustain me. The archives helped solve three previous problems. However, like it or not I could not find help with this specific issue.

Thanks for the two threads. I will read those and proceede.
 
Beowulf said:


Ok no help there. After readng the archives yesterday I have a handle on how everythig is suppoed to work. Those two threads provide some nteresting reading about Moms Cruiser etc and detail the basic functionality of the lockers, there is nothing there I had not garnered from my previous searching.

Aside from missing everything I know how the locker is suppoed to function, shift to L, CDL light comes on servo engage center dif. CDL light stays on. need more traction turn 2" knob to BB, blinking red light, turn in a circle solid red light. Not exactly priveledged information there, I read the owners manual followed the directios etc.

It boils down to this. Little red light blinks, rear locker IS engaged. I have full lock up and the light does not change state. I then proceded to the rear locker position switch, remove the term, jumper the wires.... Red light continues to blink. There is no change in state when wires are jumped. SHOULD THERE BE??

I have a 94 FZJ80 without electric lockers. I have 2 FJ40's and have owned several 60's and 62's along with my share of min trucks. None of those trucks had these lockers. So, I am at a loss for good experiance working on them.

Thanks, I know this is painful, trust me, it is for me as well. Oh, and I notice in one of those noted threads a kid got hammered for not spelling good enough... I have that problem, I am aware of my spelling problems....

Gerg
 
Gergory -
Sorry if I offended you by stating the basics. Just couldn't quite tell from your original post. However, I'm gonna ask another one here.....Are you sure the rear is actually locked?? I'm asking this as I can't recall reading of anyone having your problem of the locker engaging but the light still blinking.

:cheers:

Jason
 
I have a 96 and there have been wiring changes between the years in other areas so this might not be exactly applicable. But if you short that switch down at the axle regardless of the position of the internal mechanism you should have a solid light as the switch only provides a path to ground. The 2 wires at that switch according to my book is a Yellow/white stipe and a white/ black stripe. The W-B should have continuity with ground all the time. One check might be to simple short the Y-W to a good ground and see if the light stays on. If so then it's with the ground connection. If not then it's a connection between the switch and I5.

Best of luck
 
MoJ said:
Gergory -
Sorry if I offended you by stating the basics. Just couldn't quite tell from your original post. However, I'm gonna ask another one here.....Are you sure the rear is actually locked?? I'm asking this as I can't recall reading of anyone having your problem of the locker engaging but the light still blinking.

:cheers:

Jason

Non taken, I am new at the locker thing, so I needed to know the basics, however I am not new at the Cruiser/forum thing. I am sure it was locked. I had to maunually unlock the thing following directions from archived threads.
 
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landtank said:
I have a 96 and there have been wiring changes between the years in other areas so this might not be exactly applicable. But if you short that switch down at the axle regardless of the position of the internal mechanism you should have a solid light as the switch only provides a path to ground. The 2 wires at that switch according to my book is a Yellow/white stipe and a white/ black stripe. The W-B should have continuity with ground all the time. One check might be to simple short the Y-W to a good ground and see if the light stays on. If so then it's with the ground connection. If not then it's a connection between the switch and I5.

Best of luck

Thanks, this is exactly what I have been looking for. The wires are as you say. I will get the meter out and test. Is it possible that the corrosion around the switch negate the ground?

Thanks all! I have only owned this particualr Cruiser for a week, the PO never used 4WD, to top it off he asked me "whats that dial for?"... I suspect after some engaging and disengaging things may loosen up.
 
SHREG said:
the PO never used 4WD

might you mean "low range" ? ;)


Change the gear oil in the diffs and excercise the lockers. At first only my front would engage, and it was slooow. After changin the gear dope and some more exercise, the front is very quick and the rear works.
 
CruisinGA said:
might you mean "low range" ? ;)

I stand corrected..... I think yer correct, workem a bit and I think I will be good to go....

Thanks
 
in case it's not clear (it sounds like you're getting it now :D ) there is a totaly seperate *switch* that goes into the axle. Sepreate from the locker mechanism. It has a seperate harness and this sensor switch mearly shorts (closes, completes circuit, etc.) making the blinking red locker light go solid.

if you pull the harness clip off this sensor on the axle and short it with a paperclip (super easy) the light should go solid. If it doesn't, you have a bad harness somewhere. I would doubt that the computer is bad but it *could* be...

My point is that the locker could be functioning properly, but this sensor switch went bad. it's the same switch as in the transfer case showing center diff lock.
My center diff lock switch went bad as many do. It caused the same problem you have. Center diff light never lit :rolleyes:
Some have pulled it out and worked it a bunch and *fixed* it, but that didn't work for me. I bought a new one from C-Dan

this is what it looks like:

FZJ80CDL1.JPG

FZJ80CDL2.JPG
 
Klunky Chris said:
in case it's not clear (it sounds like you're getting it now :D ) there is a totaly seperate *switch* that goes into the axle. Sepreate from the locker mechanism. It has a seperate harness and this sensor switch mearly shorts (closes, completes circuit, etc.) making the blinking red locker light go solid.

Yes, thats the one I was refering too originally. Sloppy communication on my part. I did short the harness wires out and the blinky red light dd not change state.

My edumacation is nearly complete.... ...yeah right :)
 
Shrek,

If you don't have the EWD let us know and someone will post that section for you. I think it has been posted in the past but the image may have been lost with the new forum software.

-B-
 
SHREG said:
I did short the harness wires out and the blinky red light dd not change state.
OK... sounds like a wiring harness problem then... that sucks.

BUT, keep in mind that your locker should still function properly! You just won't have indication on your dash. As stated previously, these things are often sticky and need exercise! Mine was real finiky at first, but now work great! All I did was use them a lot.
 
Klunky Chris said:
OK... sounds like a wiring harness problem then... that sucks.

Ya.....figure I will trace it out. Time to put a new battery in the multi meter.... Moving to the harness. If there is a pick of the EWD out there I sho would appreciate a link. Meantime I will do another search on the archives.

Thanks
 

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