Goodbye Sweet 55

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CO_Hunter said:
... You have indication of a structural compromise but how bad is it in the tank. Think of it as rusty frame. How rusty, how many holes until it fails but here you have a pressure vessel...
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Seriously though...

You can see from the pic that both pinholes are right next to the bracket. Both these areas had depressions there where water gathered and rusted out. As you can see, I sanded down to check all the surrounding metal. I also took out a body hammer and banged around a bit. I really think the tank is in good shape except for those two areas. ???

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CO_Hunter said:
It is not a matter of leaking air. You have indication of a structural compromise but how bad is it in the tank. Think of it as rusty frame. How rusty, how many holes until it fails but here you have a pressure vessel. Looks nice but sorry, I wouldn't be anywhere near that thing when charged. Stay safe...
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X2

I would swap the tank. I doubt doubt the tank would fail catastrophically but if it fails likely to blow stuff everywhere. I would worry about my eyes.
 
Springs505 said:
X2

I would swap the tank. I doubt doubt the tank would fail catastrophically but if it fails likely to blow stuff everywhere. I would worry about my eyes.
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X3
Pressure vessels are no joke. If it rusted enough to put a hole in it, I wouldn't use it. That hole is a stress riser in already weakened material.

What is it, about a foot in diameter? That means almost 8 tons of force in the longitudinal direction at 140 psi. And the hoop stress is higher. If one of those pinholes cracks & unzips you don't want to be around it.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?48232-Stay-from-those-old-compressor

http://www.about-air-compressors.com/compressor-tank-exploded-on-craftsman-air-compressor-.html
 
Trying to figure out that picture....That may be enough mass to keep things under control? Maybe that is one way to get a vasectomy? Homage to Major Kong in Dr. Strangelove?

Seriously, I hope you rethink using that thing. Not just stress riser but widespread corrosion can reduce the thickness making it more prone to catastrophic failure, the unzipping as Eric described.

Here is a short article (State on MN) where tank thickness was determined using ultrasonic testing, not a hammer, although I give you props for trying. The tank construction is called into question but enough corrosion in any tank could be bad. Stay safe my friend...

http://www.doli.state.mn.us/ccld/BoilerIncidentsAir2.asp

"The tank was not built to ASME code and not registered with the National Board. The drain valve on the tank was removed, probably because it was leaking, and replaced with a plug. The accumulation of water in the vessel caused severe corrosion and thinning of the metal on the bottom of the tank. Ultrasonic thickness testing revealed a thickness of .070 inches. At this thickness the tank should never have been allowed to be pressurized. The safety valve was set at 140 psi and the pressure controls were assumed to be working properly. The purchaser brought home his new treasure, put it in his garage and plugged it in. When the pressure in the tank reached about 100 psi, the tank ruptured and flew across the garage. Luckily, nobody was injured."
 
Funny that you mentioned Dr. Strangelove. One of my favorite movies and Slim Pickens ridin' the abomb was what entered my mind when I was thinking of an image to post. Love that scene.

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Just make sure its not too coarse...don't want to destroy the metal. I had good luck with 80 grit AL Oxide. Can buy it pretty cheap too. And blast outside...makes one heck of a mess (don't ask how I learned). Wear as much PPE as you can! Its like going to the beach...sand gets EVERYWHERE...even where the sun don't shine!
 
Yeah, I was just joking about the playground sand... where'd you pick up your AL Oxide? I'm looking for something that will annihilate my rust without too much warpage to the metal.
 
PWCO70crusier said:
Just make sure its not too coarse...don't want to destroy the metal. I had good luck with 80 grit AL Oxide. Can buy it pretty cheap too. And blast outside...makes one heck of a mess (don't ask how I learned). Wear as much PPE as you can! Its like going to the beach...sand gets EVERYWHERE...even where the sun don't shine!
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Yeah, I've got a nice little spot behind the garage picked out.

PWCO70crusier said:
My first batch was from eastwood...second batch was from Harbor Freight...
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I'll probably start with the HF then upgrade to the stuff from Eastwood if needed.

Bret said:
No threat of silicosis with the Al-oxide correct?
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I believe you are correct, but I'll still be wearing a nice respirator....and probably hold my breath too.:grinpimp:

Bret said:
Curious how will it will work and how much air it takes.
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Pretty much just compresses air and media in the tank and blows it out!

The sand blaster says it needs "6 CFM @ 60 PSI" and my 5HP compressor claims it puts out "11.3 CFM @ 40 PSI", so I should be good to go.
 
Welded in some square inch tubing today as bracing so that I can cut out some rust and replace with shinny new metal... and hopefully get my doors to line up when all is said and done.

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:cheers:

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Just a thought....I may be out of place suggesting.

A brace from the upper to lower opposing pillars may be a good idea if pulling floor pans as they seemed to want to move quite a bit without.

Edited: Well, mine did since the floor supports were non-existent.
 
No man, always open to suggestions. This stuff is all new to me.

I was planning on putting in the rockers first, thinking that it would ass more rigidity / support to then put the floors in. ??? Still think I need to add some upper supports?

Thanks.
 
Fitzgerald said:
No man, always open to suggestions. This stuff is all new to me.

I was planning on putting in the rockers first, thinking that it would ass more rigidity / support to then put the floors in. ??? Still think I need to add some upper supports?

Thanks.
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Bob would be your huckleberry on a definitive, but on mine, the metal man noticed the rocker and pillar movement when tacking the cross braces in, attributed to the outer floor supports being gone, as well, rot on the floor pan to floor support joints.

Probably due to the state of decay, but he lined up doors, braced, pulled doors, then went in with rockers.

Plan is to get the outer structural returned to good, then floor supports and pans, as replacing one pan at a time doesn't appear to be possible.
 
Great info. Thanks. I'll have to give this some thought.

My ultimate goal for this rig is something that I'll probably put a nice size dent in the first time out, so I don't want to be too perfect, but I also like to to things the right way...so...???

Again, thanks for the info.
 
Hey Leon, wanna use some of your moderator magic skills and that the "s" out of sawszall in the title for me. It drives me nuts every time I see it. :mad: Thanks.

And in 55 related news, I should get some significant time this weekend to do some cutting, grinding and welding!!! :bounce2:

Should have her done in 5-6 years!!! :bounce2:
 
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