Going into The Red ?

[WILD FX]

I put a turbo on a BJ73 and with the small mufflerd exhaust by the top of the Pass at the Cold Water exit I had to pull over as the water temp was going in the red .. So I open the exhaust to a 2.1/4" mandrel bent system with no mufler and now it wont even make it to the top of the cut in North Van with out getting hot ..

Thanks
Kevin

 

[Dieseler]

Go bigger 2.5 min-3"and install a heat shield between the water line and the exhaust
Show some pics of the water line and the exhaust

 

[crushers]

what are you egts?
how much black smoke is coming out the back?

 

[WILD FX]

0 smoke and I will get some pics up later ... no pyrometer ?

 

[crushers]

try a pyro and see what the readings are...
air bubble in the cooling system?

 

[Greg_B]

It's really hard to troubleshoot if you don't have the info.

Did you play with the fuel after the turbo install at all? Is it an oil/coolant turbo, or just oil. (wondering about plumbing if coolant is used too). Kit turbo, or homebrew.

Make sure you install a pyro and boost gauge. It's the only way you are going to know what is going on, and be able to tune/adjust.

Are you sure your cooling system is up to snuff and full (rad, clutch fan, waterpump, t-stat, etc).

 

[Dieseler]

Try pulling your Tstat out and see if you temp stays down on the hills if so you probably need to recore the rad.
I blew the top off my rad last year on the Coq had to recore in Merrit know she runs cold on the Coq

 

[cicak]

Assumptions.

1. You are running a 3b or similar.
2. You are running coolant and the radiator is good.
3. the viscous coupling on the radiator fan is working perfectly and I am assuming its a belt driven fan and not an electric one.
4. You actually have shroud on the your radiator.
5. did you flush the radiator out before you installed the turbo and gave it nice new coolant/antifreeze and H2O?
6. the radiator is clear of all dirt/leaves and no mud is lying in it - check from the fan side and look down into the radiator through the shroud - turbo is very sensative about blockes radiators.
7. No intercooler I assume.
8. TUrbo when fitted you also added a boost detector (aneroid pump) to push in a little bit more fuel else it may run too lean.
9. All the injectors are cleaned and runnign fine.
10. was it blowing a little bit of black smoke before the turbo was added. If it ain't blowing a little black smoke then it may be running too lean and overheating the head very quick.
11. You tuned the pump after the turbo was installed and gave the engine some fresh oil and filter
12. Turbo fitted is OEM or CT26 13B-T turbo you don't state.
13. Checked the oil now to see if ok?
14. WHen you add water is it pumpin straight out? if so gasket is gone.
15. water pump is OK?
16. thermostat opens - test in boiling water test
17. EGT or pyrometer as has been stated and BOOST gauge both important you will be surprised how hot it gets very quickly. My pyro on exhaust manifold before the turbo and i have limit of 700-800c before I back off.
18. Wastegate added? what pressure is it set to? Spring or pop off vavle as you don't say what you did.
19. What boost you running - (I assume you do actually know) >10 on a 2 1/4" exhaust and you will have problems. You will need 2.5 -3" exhaust as stated.
20. Exhaust is too small if 3B engine need 2.5" and straight through aint nice to other road users
21. Intercooler may be required also for >10psi and for long hard running on highway (>70mph).
22. Home added or a mekanik who's done one before.

That's enough for a while.

 

[crushers]

running lean does not equal overheating, this is not a gasser.

more boost equals less EGTs unless you are turning up the fuel.

10 psi, 15 psi with little change in fuel will not equal automatic overheating with 2 1/4" exhaust.

pyro and water temp have NO RELATIONSHIP to each other.