Hi all,
I'll be taking my radiator out soon to have the lower seam soldered and have all sorts of questions about that:
1. How best to double-check if it's not leaking from the lower hose or the drain cock? Radiator shop guy told me, after looking for a second under the truck that it's the seam leaking, but I can't tell, I just see coolant along the edge where rad meets fan shroud.
2. How big of a hose clamp do I need for the lower hose?
3. A new radiator drain cock would be a good thing to have also, I guess?
4. Do I need anything else like the above two to replace the old part?
5. I'll have to cap the transmission lines, what could I use, something cone-shaped? Someone mentioned they lost about a cup of AT fluid, I guess I need to have extra at hand?
6. Not discharging the AC, of course, but the FSM says I'll be disconnecting the discharge hose and liquid tube (once I find them
)... It's OK to disconnect those without discharge, I assume? And I have to cap them too, as far as I remember, in order to keep moisture out.
7. How do you take out the overflow tank for a cleanup, I tried to force it out if the bracket but didn't really insist, or should I just stick the garden hose in it until all that's inside comes out?
8. Are all Shell ethylene glycol coolants green, that's the color I have now? I've found a "summer" one for ~$8 and a antirust one for ~$10, will probably go with the more expensive but I also saw a UNIFIDE coolant for $5.99 (would save me $20) has anybody used this one?
9. I bought this foam meant to seal a window air conditioner, can I use it to plug the holes around the radiator, or do I need a special foam seal that is more resistant to heat?
10. Finally, before I pour in $50 worth of coolant, I'd rather check if I have not created a new/bigger leak after all that "fixing" on my part, is there any trick about that. All I can think of is keep the old coolant, fill again with it once done, check for leaks, then drain, flush and put in new coolant, and hope the drain cock won't F up, maybe I can color water with something? All that flushing should be good for rust, I better buy the antirust Shell coolant...
Thanks in advance to any takers to so many questions, I'm sure I have more...
I'll be taking my radiator out soon to have the lower seam soldered and have all sorts of questions about that:
1. How best to double-check if it's not leaking from the lower hose or the drain cock? Radiator shop guy told me, after looking for a second under the truck that it's the seam leaking, but I can't tell, I just see coolant along the edge where rad meets fan shroud.
2. How big of a hose clamp do I need for the lower hose?
3. A new radiator drain cock would be a good thing to have also, I guess?
4. Do I need anything else like the above two to replace the old part?
5. I'll have to cap the transmission lines, what could I use, something cone-shaped? Someone mentioned they lost about a cup of AT fluid, I guess I need to have extra at hand?
6. Not discharging the AC, of course, but the FSM says I'll be disconnecting the discharge hose and liquid tube (once I find them
)... It's OK to disconnect those without discharge, I assume? And I have to cap them too, as far as I remember, in order to keep moisture out.7. How do you take out the overflow tank for a cleanup, I tried to force it out if the bracket but didn't really insist, or should I just stick the garden hose in it until all that's inside comes out?
8. Are all Shell ethylene glycol coolants green, that's the color I have now? I've found a "summer" one for ~$8 and a antirust one for ~$10, will probably go with the more expensive but I also saw a UNIFIDE coolant for $5.99 (would save me $20) has anybody used this one?
9. I bought this foam meant to seal a window air conditioner, can I use it to plug the holes around the radiator, or do I need a special foam seal that is more resistant to heat?
10. Finally, before I pour in $50 worth of coolant, I'd rather check if I have not created a new/bigger leak after all that "fixing" on my part, is there any trick about that. All I can think of is keep the old coolant, fill again with it once done, check for leaks, then drain, flush and put in new coolant, and hope the drain cock won't F up, maybe I can color water with something? All that flushing should be good for rust, I better buy the antirust Shell coolant...
Thanks in advance to any takers to so many questions, I'm sure I have more...
