Getting Best Electrical Cables

[greentruck]

This last week, the ARB and XRC12 winch arrived and were installed. Now I'm working on getting the electrical cables I need to locate the solenoid box under the hood of our 80.

The electrical cables that Smittybilt supplied with the XRC12 seem no more than adequate and are too short for where I want to put the solenoid box. Going with big, phat custom cables seems like the thing to do with a 12,000 lb winch, plus the solenoid box will require a somewhat longer run (~8') than the stock cables (6') will allow.

What do people do for custom cables? I would think that welding cable is the way to go, utilizing the proper lugs. Should these connectors be crimped on? Or is this the place to break out the torch and solder the lugs on after tinning the bare wire end and crimping for a good mechanical connection? Or should I go to a welding supply shop and have them make me cables, which is the more expensive solution, but probably the best, most professional approach?

I plan on using 1/0 cable for the long hot lead from the battery to the solenoid and the ground back to the battery from the winch, but may go with 2/0 for the short leads from the solenoid to the winch. Or should I just go all 1/0?

Any other ideas?

 

[Michael Hanson]

I like marine,tin coated. MIke

 

[greentruck]

I had a chance to do some research. Seems like lugs for cable sizes in the range of welding cable can be either hammer-on or solder-on.

The hammer-on lugs are set with a small anvil-like device that is hit to crimp the lug. I found one that is about $30, which is not an unreasonable price for a tool that is used from time to time and it can be used for a range of lug sizes. I could also use it for general battery cable work.

I can see how the solder-on ones might give a better connection that is more resistant to corrosion. Not sure if my soldering skills with a torch would be better than a hammer-on lug.

Still curious what experience others have here.

 

[80t0ylc]

It's been a while, but from my experience working in manufacturing engineering, building medical imaging equipment: If you are crimping the connection, which I believe includes the hammer-on lugs. Strip wire of insulation the correct length. Insure all strands are twisted together. Do not tin the wire, you want strands to mold or flex during the crimp process. Do not over-crimp, this can break individual strands weakening and causing unnecessary resistance. Make use of insulation crimps if they are included on the lug by crimping them on the insulation. They will strengthen the connection. Once you are done crimping the lug, it's ok then to solder if desired. The proper amount will aid in guarding against corrosion. Too much will stiffen the joint and actually make it weaker (You don't want solder to flow up into insulation). If I had a choice and we're talking stranded wire, I would choose in this order:

1st. Crimp and solder.
2nd. Crimp only.
3rd. Solder only. HTH

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I just did the same thing but only need 3 4' cables. I went into West Marine and bought marine grade multi-strand and also bought the crimp on lugs. They have a work bench and crimper there that they let customers use. I didn't bother with soldering. Be prepared for sticker shock. It was almost $100 for 3 4' lengths of #2 and 6 lugs! I'm sure you can do better elsewhere but I wasn't in a shopping mood.

 

[fj404life]

I got all the stuff to wire up my 8274 at the local welding supply shop. They had a huge box full of "end of the roll" chunks of wire. Super cheap if you dont need long lengths.

 

[bjowett]

I like the Quick Cable Compression lugs....

QuickCable: Products

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I ran 2/0 to the rear of my 60 for winch power 15 years ago, used welding cable and hammer on lugs. Never a problem

 

[greentruck]

Here's the cool tool for making your own custom cables.

The first pic is of the Lenco 840 "Crimper Tool Swedge" that cost me all of $14.50. The local welder supply had to order it, but with the low cost, it should be in your toolbox, even for just one good,clean install since it makes this so easy to get right.

The second pic is a look end on with a lug set in the jaws. In my case, I used 2/0 Hobart welding cable with lugs appropriately sized for their connections. The lugs were 98 cents each.

The third pic shows the tool set up with a lug and the cable inserted just before crimping. You strip off the cable's cover to the bare wire. I found that this worked best by putting the lug in the tool "upside down." You smack it briskly on top the silver sliding post twice or thrice and - Voila! -- you have a cable! Or at least one end. Repeat as necessary.

 

[greentruck]

Here's a pic of the completed cable end. It's a little out of focus, but you get the idea.

I then used 3/4" heatshrink applied so that it overlapped the lug and helped make a better insulated end. The length of most cables was then covered in the ribbed wiring protector that is slit to allow you to protect the cable with it. I used it in red and red PVC tape to designate the +Positive ends, along with suitable zipties and insulated cable clamps. It was a complex installation, because I added a second battery, a Hellroaring isolator, a Blue Sea switch that allows either battery or both to feed the winch as well as disabling it when not in use, and dual grounds from the winch back to the batteries, all with 2/0 cable custom fitted.

Mr. C was not impressed.

 

[stuckinnz]

Yes the welding cable is good, and I always use the hex crimp on lugs for the terminations but any electrician should carry tools for this size cable so see if you know any one who could lend the tools. all the lugs(hammer on or crimp on) are good and designed for these sort of loads.
The most important thing is to make the conections properly. I recomend cleaning the inside of the lug with a bit of 600 wet and dry before crimping and cleaning the mating face the same way before connecting. I always use connecting paste to aid the joint and keep the water out(the only place on this truck)

Main ground and starter motor plus one each to the winch and a spare set to conect to the spare battery if I need the extra for winching or a start



spare stand alone battery to run stereo work lights camp lights fridge(when I get 1) and possibly a HHO generator to take the fuel consumption from 12 to 13mpg lol. Also some more cable from work for future projects!!


and a second altenator to run the second battery. I had wanted to get it finished to night but I got the wrong belt so it's back to the auto store in the morning and a tidy up before a run out on Sunday

 

[roalco]

Soldering is the best way to go, for long term dependable corrosion free connections, but it is a PITA! Cut your welding cables to length, remove the insulation from the ends, then take the cables and solder connectors to your local rad shop, it'll only take them a minute to solder the ends on and if you slide on some self sealing heat shrink when you get home you have cables that will last till the next millenium.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

I recently discovered a cheap source of high quality long battery cables. I was at the local Pull-A-Part and noticed a BMW with the battery location in the trunk on the right side. The large cables run from the trunk, along the rocker panel, thru the firewall and near the fuse/relay module just below the windshield.

You will need to release the cable from the connector at the firewall first. Remove the inner rocker trim next. The cable is secured by many nylon wire ties that will need to be cut or broken. I then pulled the cable thru the hole behind the rear seat and into the trunk. When resistance is met, straightening the cable trying to enter the trunk was necessary.

Not all BMW's have the battery in the trunk. I pulled a large diameter black positive cable from a late 80's/early 90's 3 series. I saw, but did not remove a similar diameter red positive cable in a similar year 7 series. I could not remove it due to right side doors that were smashed shut.

The 3 Series cable was around 8' long. I paid less than $4 for it! Be sure to inspect the entire cable for damage to the insulation. Cut to length and crimp on the connector of your choice. Good luck

 

[greentruck]

Great tip, Lash! Copper is not getting any cheaper, yet BMW doesn't scrimp on their stuff so you know it's good stuff.

 

[Pin_Head]

You don't need welding cable; just the proper size cable. Welding cable is fine strand for increased flexibility and has a heavy insulation to resist abrasion. A long battery cable for the starter would be fine and cheaper. Last time I looked, 1/0 welding cable was $4 a foot. It may be more now.