Getting Back into Cruisers - '85 FJ60 Build Thread

[MichiganFJ60]

The malfunctioning carb fan is another common reason why the intake cracks. When you put her back together, ensure that thing works!

I definitely will.

Rear main seal can be done without removing the rear main cap, in fact I'm sure you're supposed to do it with the rear main cap installed.

That's what I figured, but a search of the archives provides a lot of talk about the advantages of pulling the rear main cap. I'd really rather not do that.

What are your ultimate plans for this rig? Wheeling, restoration toy, DD, expedition rig?

Truthfully, I'm reliving a bit of my past with this thing, so my primary plan is to preserve it and have fun in the process. Things are pretty fluid at this point, although I have gone back and forth on the SOA vs OME debate. I did a SkyJacker lift on my old 40 back in the day, then promptly chucked it for a spring over and some articulation, so I'm leaning toward the SOA on the 60. I have a line on a ToyBox at a good price, so that would make the SOA and 35's more practical. I'd have a rubber overdrive and plenty of low gearing for off road. I do like the SUA expedition rigs, though. Given my location, that might make more sense, but I keep thinking I'd like to drive out west and meet up with my brother in law for some wheeling in Colorado, Utah, and on the Rubicon. We shall see.

Any suggestions?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Truthfully, I'm reliving a bit of my past with this thing, so my primary plan is to preserve it and have fun in the process. Things are pretty fluid at this point, although I have gone back and forth on the SOA vs OME debate. I did a SkyJacker lift on my old 40 back in the day, then promptly chucked it for a spring over and some articulation, so I'm leaning toward the SOA on the 60. I have a line on a ToyBox at a good price, so that would make the SOA and 35's more practical. I'd have a rubber overdrive and plenty of low gearing for off road. I do like the SUA expedition rigs, though. Given my location, that might make more sense, but I keep thinking I'd like to drive out west and meet up with my brother in law for some wheeling in Colorado, Utah, and on the Rubicon. We shall see.

Any suggestions?

My suggestion would be the following:

SOA with flat springs ( triangulated 4 link in the rear if you can afford it )
37" tires of your choosing
H55 transmission
Toybox
4.11 diffs with selectable lockers ( I prefer the toyota e-locker design myself )
Chromo axles ( longs up front, synergy performance in the rear )
Chopped quarters, rockers and front fenders
Armor

I'm getting there myself. I need more armor, the toybox and longfields

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Rear C-Channel

I've been making slow progress, focusing mainly on painting the frame, axles and other bits. I got the final coat of paint on and turned my attention to replacing the rear c-channel.

A local shop bent up two pieces of 3/16" steel to tuck inside the frame rails. Before I clamp them in and drill holes for fasteners, I'm wondering if I should be at all concerned about the possibility of a hard line on the frame due to forward edge of the inner channel? I was planning on having the pieces sit as they're pictured here because angling them forward like the original pieces, and the little weld at the forward edge, didn't seem to add any real reinforcement. Am I missing something or making a mistake by locating them where I have them?

Thanks!

 

[MichiganFJ60]

And while I'm on the topic...

I'm thinking I'd like to seal the area behind the C-channel before final assembly. Has anyone used seam sealer or something similar in this kind of repair? Is it a good idea?

 

[disassociative]

I'm thinking I'd like to seal the area behind the C-channel before final assembly. Has anyone used seam sealer or something similar in this kind of repair? Is it a good idea?

Are you talking about the gap where the rear "C" changes into a box frame?

In my experience, using a seam sealer like an expanding foam or similar usually only causes more trouble when against steel. It is hard to get a solid fill without air pockets and cracks that quickly become water pockets and cracks, especially in a humid environment like Michigan. Spraying a rust preventative (wax and kerosene works pretty well) can be much more effective, though it will require annual application

Just my $.02

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Are you talking about the gap where the rear "C" changes into a box frame?

In my experience, using a seam sealer like an expanding foam or similar usually only causes more trouble when against steel. It is hard to get a solid fill without air pockets and cracks that quickly become water pockets and cracks, especially in a humid environment like Michigan. Spraying a rust preventative (wax and kerosene works pretty well) can be much more effective, though it will require annual application

Just my $.02

Probably sound advice. I certainly don't want to trap anything in there.

I was thinking about putting a thick coat of something like polysulfide - a product I use aboard our boat to seal fasteners and fittings - on the back side of the new C-channels before bolting them into the frame rails. If I did it right, the polysulfide would fill any gaps and excess would squeeze out around the edges, hopefully preventing water from finding its way back in there. The stuff is a mild adhesive and dries to a flexible, non-tacky finish. Perhaps I should leave well enough alone!

Thanks!

 

[Eldorado556]

Frame restoration looks awesome. Ya know I can't remember ever seeing more than a couple FJ60's in Michigan.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Progress - C-channel, engine gaskets, front axle

C-channel is drilled, painted, and bolted in. I used 3/8" Grade 8 fasteners everywhere except the four body mount bolts and the rear spring hangers - those got 7/16" Grade 8 bolts. I had to notch my spare tire carrier a tad to get it to fit past the new fasteners.

I had to flip two of the bolts to get them to fit past each other inside the frame rail.

Getting ready to drill the two bottom holes for the spring hangers.

Also tore the front end down. I'm going to do a spring over, so I'll be rebuilding the axle at the same time. Turns out my oil seals were bad, so my hubs ended up with grey, gooey mess.

What do you guys think about these spindles? It looks like the bearings may have spun just a bit on both of them. Is that what I'm seeing signs of?

And is this line where the seal rides normal? I can't imagine it is, but...?

A week or so ago, I also replaced the oil pan, valve cover, and side cover gaskets. I had a can of grey Rustoleum handy and decided to use it on the parts I'd cleaned and degreased. I should have gone with black, but I didn't have any. I'll continue to clean and degrease parts as I pull them off the engine. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there aren't any leaks when I fire this thing up.

I have the front and rear seals ready to go in, but haven't gotten the crank pulley and nut off yet. Slowly but surely.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Those spindles look fine man. Run them and don't think twice about it.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

^^^ X2 they look better than mine did.

 

[dbleon]

Looks awesome.

Just a personal opinion: I would weld the stuff that used to be hot riveted. A least a few small welds provides some assurance.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Looks awesome.

Just a personal opinion: I would weld the stuff that used to be hot riveted. A least a few small welds provides some assurance.

You're talking primarily about the spring hanger, right? How about a bead along the front and rear of the spring hanger under the frame and one right over the top of the flange that attaches to the side of the frame? You think that'd be sufficient?

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[dbleon]

I would say yes, but also I would do the body mounts.. some beads along the rounded corners.

Maybe some of the suspension guys will chime in on where to weld the spring hangers. They move those frequently on SOA's.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

...also I would do the body mounts.. some beads along the rounded corners.

Purely academic, but do you think the body mount is subject to that much load? I'm not arguing, just asking.

 

[disassociative]

Purely academic, but do you think the body mount is subject to that much load? I'm not arguing, just asking.

I seem to recall there was a weld along the top surface of the body mount along the frame, is that what you see?

When I did mine, I reasoned that the purpose of the rivets was to keep the arms from spreading under compression (heavy load in rear) and from pulling away from the frame under tension (hard cornering or jumping). Even if there is some element of shear involved, the increased strength from your grade 8 fasteners and the friction between the body mounts and frame under increased clamping force make some welds seem like overkill, IMHO.

The spring hangers on the other hand, might be worth welding...though 7/16" bolts are pretty hefty.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Clearly this is a project that has languished, and life seems to be taking a different direction. My teenage son doesn't have much interest in fixing the FJ60, and I'm short on time, so I think I'm at the point where I either unload it as a project or part it out. Frame and axles are sandblasted and painted. Vehicle is as stripped as depicted in the pictures. Engine is on stand with new gaskets and desmog kit. Carb rebuilt by Chenoweth. New used intake manifold. New used tailgate. Spare third member. Body on stands in the garage. Comes with all the parts. Make me an offer if you're interested in the whole thing. If it's parts you want, I'll eventually begin posting those in the appropriate part of this site. I'm a bit sad to abandon the project, but I've got no shortage of other projects, frankly. Appreciated all the excellent advice and the great camaraderie afforded by this site. Cheers! Photo album link available upon request via DM/email.
David