Getting Back into Cruisers - '85 FJ60 Build Thread

[MichiganFJ60]

Welcome back to cruisers. You certainly don't mess around! Looking good!

Hey, thanks! Appreciate you stopping by. Things are moving right along, but there's always the fear that the project will bog down. Teardown has been pretty easy; the hard part is yet to come.

I've got the engine on a stand and will go back and forth between stripping the frame and doing what I can to clean up the engine and stop some leaks. It's about time to order some parts! Too bad I don't have a sandblaster for the frame!

 

[MichiganFJ60]

2F Engine and Gasket Question

While cleaning up the engine and getting ready to replace gaskets and seals, I noticed that there's rust that has caused a raised area near one of the exhaust ports. I'm afraid it will interfere with sealing when it's time to put the intake and exhaust manifolds back on. Here's a pic:

Is this something that I can carefully file down to ensure a good fit when things go back together? I appreciate your thoughts/experience.

Regarding gaskets, I'll be replacing the following gaskets: side cover, valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, exhaust/intake manifold. And the following seals: rear main and timing. Any recommendation on where to source them and the brand I should get? OEM? Fel-Pro ok?

And here are a few pics of stripping parts off the engine - just for fun. It's certainly an oily mess.

 

[BANDICOOTII]

Looks like fun! I did my 60 you can see my build look for a build thread on Mojave Suspension. I lived in Michigan, salt is the premature death of many a cruiser!

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Looks like fun! I did my 60 you can see my build look for a build thread on Mojave Suspension. I lived in Michigan, salt is the premature death of many a cruiser!

Wow! Found your build thread! Very cool. Too bad you're not still in the area. And, yep, no more salt roads for this Cruiser when it's back together.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Crossmember removal and stripping the frame

I'd hoped to have more done, but work continues on the 60. I've been getting the frame ready for sandblasting, so I pulled all the brake and fuel lines off the frame, then pulled the front and rear bumpers. The rear bumper bolts were so badly rusted that I ended up just cutting the rear crossmember loose to get the bumper off. I then drilled out the rivets and removed the crossmember remnants from the frame. I pulled the axles and began removing the rivets that hold the inner c-channel to the rear frame rails. That's been a chore. Once the channel is out, the frame and axles will be off to be blasted.

Here are some pics. They're actually from most recent to oldest - sorry.

I discovered that the best way to get the rivets out is to grind the heads flush with the frame, punch the center, drill out most of the rivet, then hammer the rivet out with a punch. Here are some of the rivets removed.

The rear body mounts and spring hangers are riveted through the c-channel, so those rivets have to come out too.

Axles will be ready for sandblasting as soon as the spring packs are off.

Frame nearly stripped. Axles on the way out.

The shackles and spring pins came loose without too much trouble. I'd been blasting them with PB Blaster for days prior. I had to use some heat on the spring pins, but they broke loose with a bit of twisting. Using a dowel against the frame and spring pack made for an easy way to pry the shackles free.

The rest of the pictures are of the rear crossmember and bumper coming out. Again, more grinding, drilling, and hammering. Oh, and the wavy, rusty c-channel before grinding.

Things are moving along. Can't wait to get the frame cleaned up and painted. Getting ready to place an order with Beno for engine gaskets and seals. That'll be next once the frame is off to the sandblaster.

 

[wyorunner]

looking good. curious to see the outcome of the kem kromik. Have you got the frame off to the blaster yet?

 

[MichiganFJ60]

looking good. curious to see the outcome of the kem kromik. Have you got the frame off to the blaster yet?

Hey, thanks. I've enjoyed watching your progress. Frame goes off to the blaster on Tuesday and should be back home Wednesday. I'm cleaning out my workshop so I can set up the frame in there for painting. Temps are forecast to be in the 60s next week, but this is Michigan. I have a wood stove in the shop, so I'll crank that up and heat things, then prep and paint the frame - at least that's the plan. I'll post pictures as things progress.

Here are a couple pics of the rear c-channel removal and the frame parked outside, ready to go to the blaster.

Although wavy, the rear channel pieces weren't all that bad. You can see a spot of clean metal in this picture.

Here's the frame and another big project, a '64 Alberg 30 sailboat that I'm restoring. Good thing my projects are (mostly) hidden behind the house!

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Picked up the frame and axles from the blaster on Wednesday and parked them in the garage. Set up Thursday afternoon for painting and got a coat of Kem Kromik primer on the chassis. My parts, which were wonderfully clean and clear when I picked them up from the blaster, were already showing signs of rust a day later (wouldn't you know it, Michigan decided to have the first muggy day of the season). My goal was to get everything coated to seal the metal, and I managed to accomplish that.

I was using a cheap canister spray gun yesterday, and it fed terribly. I bought a gravity feed gun today and went at the frame, axles, and other bits. She's looking a lot better, and the new gun made a major difference. The spray was much better diffused and covered nicely without clogging.

My local Sherwin Williams only had off white primer in stock, so that's what she is for now. I'll go with a black topcoat once the priming is finished. I need to hit the side and bottom of the frame one more time before the topcoat goes on.

Anyway, here are the pics:

I've got a bad pinion seal in the axle, hence the gear oil all over.

Here you can see the textured effect I got in several areas of the frame. Some of it is due to the rust I had on the chassis, but some of it is due to the lousy gun I used first.

Please tell me that top leaf spring (for the rear) is ok. The PO had helper springs on the rear, and one side seems a bit deformed. What do you guys think?

All in all, not a bad experience. It's the first time I've used a conventional spray gun, so it's been educational. Good thing I'm not painting something that requires fine finishing!

 

[wyorunner]

Looks good. I had the same experience in the texturing of the Kem Kromik. I believe a professional may be able to spray it perfect but hey that's ok, I'm pleased with the out come. Yours looks nice, the white is oddly cool on the axles. Keep it up.

 

[disassociative]

Separated leaves on the shackle side of the pin could mean the springs have been inverted at some point. If so, they'll be more likely to do so again.

You can get an add-a-leaf and replace or re-bend the spring clamp if you want to keep them. I think I have an OME anti-inversion shackle or two you're welcome to have. Probably a good idea to use this type on that spring if you're going to put it back on.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Separated leaves on the shackle side of the pin could mean the springs have been inverted at some point. If so, they'll be more likely to do so again.

You can get an add-a-leaf and replace or re-bend the spring clamp if you want to keep them. I think I have an OME anti-inversion shackle or two you're welcome to have. Probably a good idea to use this type on that spring if you're going to put it back on.

Judging by the rust between the leaves(?), it might be flaking metal. Sound plausible? I'll separate the packs at some point to clean up and install an add-a-leaf.

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Chassis Painted

Made the most noticeable progress today with the first application of black topcoat. Spraying it on was decidedly satisfying.

Here are some pictures:

And two older pictures of the freshly blasted parts.

I used a Sherwin Williams paint for the topcoat, and this one sprayed much more smoothly than the Kem Kromik primer. Per the recommendation of one of the knowledgeable guys at the store, I thinned it with just a little Xylene and that made a big difference.

 

[wyorunner]

Which paint in particular? I didn't thin mine. I felt it went on easy enough, although it is probably much warmer down here. Glad to see your liking the SW paints. I was sure happy. But only time will tell for sure.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Intake Crack?

So, here's a picture of the inside of the intake manifold. The area in question certainly looks a little baked. Is that crack a casting issue or a heat crack? I suppose I'm looking at having it welded up as Spike Strip mentioned in another thread. What say the experts?

Thanks.

PS - If you read this Spike Strip, I heated the diverter flap coil and it operates as it should.

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Another Question

I've cleaned up my oil pan and the mating surface on the block to prepare for replacing the oil pan gasket. I also picked up some of Toyota's FIPG to use on the gasket. Before I put the pan back on, should I pull the rear main cap so I can replace the rear main seal more easily, or should I just put the oil pan back in and get at the rear main another way? Suggestions? If I pull the rear main cap, what kind of sealant should I use when I tighten it back up?

Thanks!

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

Here's the frame and another big project, a '64 Alberg 30 sailboat that I'm restoring. Good thing my projects are (mostly) hidden behind the house!

Thats a good boat. I've sailed a nearly exactly same vintage 30' Alberg. Thick fiberglass on the hull.... Does yours have tiller or wheel?

Sorry for the thread-jack!

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Thats a good boat. I've sailed a nearly exactly same vintage 30' Alberg. Thick fiberglass on the hull.... Does yours have tiller or wheel?

Sorry for the thread-jack!

It's a tiller. The interior is almost entirely gutted, but it has a low-hours Westerbeke, new sails, and came with loads of gear. Plus, I got it for a song. She's a very cool boat.

A pic:

Cruiser Tech: Anybody have ideas about the intake manifold and the rear main seal question? Thanks!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Intake manifold is toast and is a common issue on these 2Fs. Did your carb cooling fan work before you ripped the truck apart?

You have two options with that:
1. Get a new intake manifold
2. Have someone who's good with a TIG weld that crack back up


"Hex plug" above and to the left of the crank is actually a threaded welch plug. Take it out and reseal it. Not positive if there's a seal behind there, but thread sealer should do the trick.

Get your rear main seal gasket from Toyota. That's not something you want to cheap out on and have go bad after a month of driving.

I'm liking the build thus far man, keep it up

 

[MichiganFJ60]

Intake manifold is toast and is a common issue on these 2Fs. Did your carb cooling fan work before you ripped the truck apart?

Nope, sadly.

You have two options with that:
1. Get a new intake manifold
2. Have someone who's good with a TIG weld that crack back up

Ok, I'll see what I can find.

"Hex plug" above and to the left of the crank is actually a threaded welch plug. Take it out and reseal it. Not positive if there's a seal behind there, but thread sealer should do the trick.

Will do.

Get your rear main seal gasket from Toyota. That's not something you want to cheap out on and have go bad after a month of driving.

Got it from Beno (and a bunch of other stuff). Do I want to drop the rear main cap, or should I attack it externally?

I'm liking the build thus far man, keep it up

Thanks, me too!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The malfunctioning carb fan is another common reason why the intake cracks. When you put her back together, ensure that thing works!

Rear main seal can be done without removing the rear main cap, in fact I'm sure you're supposed to do it with the rear main cap installed.

What are your ultimate plans for this rig? Wheeling, restoration toy, DD, expedition rig?