- Thread starter
- #101
Just slide them down into the channels like the factory rails. The backing nut from the fastener holds it in place
Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tbisaacs
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Just slide them down into the channels like the factory rails. The backing nut from the fastener holds it in place
yeah. you can have them for shipping. shoot me a pm
- Thread starter
- #104
Still very happy with this set up!
This weekend I picked up some stainless button-head hex bolts that fit the front runner rings. I ground 1-2mm off of each head and they slide right in. This makes for a very tidy, low profile traction board mount:
I have room for two more bars. I may pull the trigger.
This weekend I picked up some stainless button-head hex bolts that fit the front runner rings. I ground 1-2mm off of each head and they slide right in. This makes for a very tidy, low profile traction board mount:
I have room for two more bars. I may pull the trigger.
Just received an LC rack from @Eric Sarjeant, thinking AL crossbars are in my future.
So other than the additional length of typical aftermarket racks (FrontRunner, Rhino, etc.), is there any significant advantage going that route vs this?
mcgaskins
SILVER Star
Definitely. You can't *really* overland if you don't have a rack. Most expeditions turn people around if they can't clearly see the rack is made in South Africa or Australia, and it must be made titanium or aluminum actually
- Thread starter
- #108
My experience so far:
- As someone pointed out earlier, there is a different 8020 profile that is slightly bigger that will more easily accept slide-in Front Runner accessories. The series I use requires a few mm to be shaved off of most carriage bolts / button-head bolts
- I drove about 70 miles of corrugated forest roads this weekend and my front bar began to squeak because it had come loose a couple of turns. Easy fix - but if it does it again I may lock tight
- Adjusting the spacing of the bars requires tools - although you might be able to find some thumb screws that works
- The bars do not have any bow in them—meaning that reaching under the bar is very hard. My thule cargo box is the old square U-bolt style and attaching was a pain.
Even with the front rail loosening - nothing moved at all. The bars are super rigid.
Thanks. Be aware that the profile which accepts the FrontRunner accessories is 1.5”. I believe that’s too tall and will contact the roof.My experience so far:
- As someone pointed out earlier, there is a different 8020 profile that is slightly bigger that will more easily accept slide-in Front Runner accessories. The series I use requires a few mm to be shaved off of most carriage bolts / button-head bolts
- I drove about 70 miles of corrugated forest roads this weekend and my front bar began to squeak because it had come loose a couple of turns. Easy fix - but if it does it again I may lock tight
- Adjusting the spacing of the bars requires tools - although you might be able to find some thumb screws that works
- The bars do not have any bow in them—meaning that reaching under the bar is very hard. My thule cargo box is the old square U-bolt style and attaching was a pain.
Even with the front rail loosening - nothing moved at all. The bars are super rigid.
I used 1/4" hardware with my FrontRunner accessories (just bought RTT quick mount) and after putting 1,800 miles on it with the 1.6m Stargazer I feel confident it is the answer for me.
I'd think an aftermarket rack is going to be more sturdy and support more weight. Due to the more rigid materials used and additional mounting points.
And this times eleventy billion.Definitely. You can't *really* overland if you don't have a rack. Most expeditions turn people around if they can't clearly see the rack is made in South Africa or Australia, and it must be made titanium or aluminum actually
- Thread starter
- #112
This is untrue. The roof has a maximum static load capacity whether or not you are using OEM rack or aftermarket.
Im not aware of any after market racks that require additional mounting holes to be drilled. Most use the three factory attachment points.
The Gobi does add 2 feet/pads in the front to have a total of 4 supports on each side, 3 bolted.
- Thread starter
- #114
You are right. Gobi claims a 300# safe driving load limit and 800# static.
The owners manual for my 570 and the TLC state to not exceed 154# “on the roof luggage carrier”.
Somebody smarter than me weigh in. My assumption is the load limits are based on the roof and not the rack.
This is an interesting topic. Lots of opinions out there, but I haven’t seen anything definitive. Hopefully, someone with some “cred” will chime in.
Static load of the roof, yes. Not necessarily the static load of the rack itself. Is that not the case? Also, all the aftermarket racks are likely be more rigid that the OEM main rail, and therefore be capable of carrying more weight, wouldn't they?
Likely correct. I was thinking previously that the OEM rack only used 2 of those 3 points per side. ***EDIT*** I guess Gobi (as mentioned above) does add a couple extra feet.
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I don't think the limiting factor would be the rails but the roof capacity/load distribution. Meaning even if an aftermarket rack could hold 10x as much it doesn't matter as the factory rails with these crossmembers can far exceed capacity. The limit may even be a center of gravity/safety issue.
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FWIW, I chatted with a rack reseller, and a rack manufacturer.
They both stated that the weight rating published by the vehicle manufacturer for their OEM roof rack is the cross bar limit, not the side rail or roof capacity. The reseller advised that's why after-market cross bars typically carry a load limit higher than OEM. . .they're more robust in both construction and mounting method. The manufacturer advised similarly. . .you gain capacity mounting their platform on factory side rails, or for maximum load-ability, remove the factory rails and install their rails and platform.
YMMV. . .
They both stated that the weight rating published by the vehicle manufacturer for their OEM roof rack is the cross bar limit, not the side rail or roof capacity. The reseller advised that's why after-market cross bars typically carry a load limit higher than OEM. . .they're more robust in both construction and mounting method. The manufacturer advised similarly. . .you gain capacity mounting their platform on factory side rails, or for maximum load-ability, remove the factory rails and install their rails and platform.
YMMV. . .
Doesn't the 15 series contact the roof?
