Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)

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Many in this situation are filing/grinding down the carriage bolt heads to fit . . . not sure how extensive your toolshop is, but that is an option.

Grinding down the bolt cap is something I tried. The problem is that the square profile of the carriage bolt is too wide for the profile/track in the extrusion. The square part of the bolt is too small to grind down - there's no way I can reasonably do that, especially given that I need 16 such bolts for immediate use. The other option is to remove all cross bars and use a router or table saw to widen the interior profile/track, but I'm not about to do that for a product that should have worked from the get-go. Too much effort and I'm quite certain I won't be happy with the end result.
 
Great thread! I was talking to my dad yesterday and mentioned trying to build something like this. He owns a small wholesale flooring business and said "oh yeah, the people who sell us our transitions (tile to carpet, etc) sell a ton of that stuff. He sent me this site. They really do have a lot of accessories, hinges, mounting equipment, slot fillers, end caps, etc. The site will give you local dealers also. Just figured I would pass it along.

 
Grinding down the bolt cap is something I tried. The problem is that the square profile of the carriage bolt is too wide for the profile/track in the extrusion. The square part of the bolt is too small to grind down - there's no way I can reasonably do that, especially given that I need 16 such bolts for immediate use. The other option is to remove all cross bars and use a router or table saw to widen the interior profile/track, but I'm not about to do that for a product that should have worked from the get-go. Too much effort and I'm quite certain I won't be happy with the end result.
There are numerous sources of T headed fasteners thank God for the internet search feature.
 
Just slide them down into the channels like the factory rails. The backing nut from the fastener holds it in place
wait dont you mean the bars mount to the angle brackets and the angle brackets to the factory rails? or are you putting a t nut into the 8020 bar and sliding them into the factory rails in addition to the angle brackets?
 
wait dont you mean the bars mount to the angle brackets and the angle brackets to the factory rails? or are you putting a t nut into the 8020 bar and sliding them into the factory rails in addition to the angle brackets?

bars mount to brackets, brackets have hardware the slide into rails.
 
3/8” carriage bolt fits perfectly in factory rail (the parts that are parallel to the long dimension of the rig).
 
If anyone decides to depart from their stock bars I would be interested in purchasing them. I want to experiment with the slide brackets. Thanks!
 
going with 15 series from tnutz.
do m8 carriage bolts drop into the counter bore holes no problem and fit in the rails?

looking at something like this. m8 1.x25 and using a plastic knob/wing nut to hold down some traction boards to start with
and then prob something similar to put an awning on. or is it better do use the nut end in the rail and a bolt going downwards?
 
going with 15 series from tnutz.
do m8 carriage bolts drop into the counter bore holes no problem and fit in the rails?

looking at something like this. m8 1.x25 and using a plastic knob/wing nut to hold down some traction boards to start with
and then prob something similar to put an awning on. or is it better do use the nut end in the rail and a bolt going downwards?
I would think (depending on application) that threads up affords more flexibility.
 
I have 80/20 rails and


I do have a set of Matraxx mounting pins and did have them on with the factory crossbars but wanted something lower profile and without the curve of the OEM bars.

I followed some of the advice @tbisaacs had previously posted. I ordered the FrontRunner eye nuts thinking they were sold in singles but received two in each pack so had extras. I also ordered 2 - 80/20 cross bars and brackets. Later on, I added a few more and went with Tnutz the second time around. I measured and grinded the 8 MM bolt heads and used an 80/20 channel for test fitment. I noticed the Tnutz bar channel was a tad bit narrower and had to grind a little more metal off the bolt heads to slide in the channel. YMMV.

I had a variety of bolts and tested several sizes and shapes. What worked for me was 8 MM stainless button socket screws. Had to grind the heads down some and the thread beneath it - on each side. I used a bench grinder so was pretty easy. For two stacked boards, I used 50 MM length which leaves enough room to add another 1-2 boards, otherwise go shorter.

Also used 20 MM length for FrontRunner rings direct to crossbars.
Photo below shows FrontRunner black bolt and my version that grinded on each side.
Plenty of options for you.

View attachment 2297887View attachment 2297888View attachment 2297889View attachment 2297890View attachment 2297891

Would it make sense to move the drilled holes in the 80/20 a little more offset from the edge so that you could mount a bracket or something on the edge for an annex or something?

1598806623473.webp
 
Something I'm failing to understand is, what bolt was the 80/20 rail actually designed to accept? I don't mind grinding heads or whatever but it seems like there should be some plug and play solution by design, or no?
 
There are numerous sources of T headed fasteners thank God for the internet search feature.

Have you found a good source for t headed fasteners that work in these 80/20 rails?
 
MaxTrax pins are gigantic in diameter - I had to drill holes. I've since moved to carriage bolts with eye nuts. They slip into the extrusions no problem.

Do you just grind all your carriage bolts down to make them work? I'm trying to plan this all out, if so I'll probably buy a cheap bench grinder.
 
Do you just grind all your carriage bolts down to make them work? I'm trying to plan this all out, if so I'll probably buy a cheap bench grinder.

Yup. Bought a cheap harbor freight bench grinder just for it. Takes literally 2 minutes.
 
Have you found a good source for t headed fasteners that work in these 80/20 rails?
These fit without any grinding.

M6-1.0 x 10mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Passivated 18-8 Stainless Steel, Allen Socket Drive,Full Thread, Machine Thread,20 PCS

Amazon product ASIN B08571Y6DB
 
Would it make sense to move the drilled holes in the 80/20 a little more offset from the edge so that you could mount a bracket or something on the edge for an annex or something?

View attachment 2420741
For my Rhino Batwing awning bracket, I used a M6 bolt in the channel and then drilled hole all the way through the bore in the crossbar and secured with M8 bolt. Solid. Makes install and removal quick and easy.

IMG_8441.webp
 
this is an awesome thread and a great idea! dont really need a basket, just a few extra crossbars, and flat ones with tracks would be the ticket. How do you actually order these bars to fit a specific vehicle? do they walk you through the process or do you need to just send them lengths and pray it fits? i would like to get 2 for a sequoia and 2 for a LC100.
 

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