Gearbox /Transfer case part numbers for HJ75 (1 Viewer)

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N.Q. australia
These are the bearing part numbers from my gearbox transfer case rebuild recently.These are the numbers off the Koyo Boxes.Hope they help some of you guys source some parts locally.
Koyo.. 6308nrc3..B0508
TR070902 70424 PZ80403
RNU080821NR 70182 PZ00505
DG3580ACL 70285 B0503
30307JR-4
06NUP0820 ANR502C3 70205 PZ-00506
38VP5243 2 off
6207C3M0402 x 2 off
45TKD10 RTC545A
Toyota Bush RTC545A
3342160060Xcluster 5 sp 10/85 7/97
3331160121Amg/box imput shaft hj75
3333660010AMgear small 5th
3333360030X 3rd gear
3334336020 Bush
9099973089Am t/fer gea/bush
3337120010G/B syncro springs
3339136010 sync/sp 5th gear
3336636020 G/B syncro keys
3336820012Rings syncro
3620360050AM Hi/LO 5 speed.
 
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Im still thinking about doing mine BBD. Whats the hard bits about a gearbox rebuild and what things do you look out for?


You got it back in yet:D?
 
Thank you, BBD. Did you find most of the bearings or synchros in need of replacement? How many kms has she done?

Dave
 
The hardest part was pulling the bearings to remove the shafts this caused some grief as I managed to chip one of the teeth on a gear. Having an oxy set to heat the bearing inner would be a big help for sure. The main things to look for are scores on shafts and wear marks. Also with the gears check carefully to see if any of the hard facing is worn or starting to delaminate.
 
beanz2 said:
Thank you, BBD. Did you find most of the bearings or synchros in need of replacement? How many kms has she done?

Dave
Not really sure as the box had been rebuilt before, this was obvious from some score marks on shafts where the bearings had been removed and replaced again. The syncros appeared in good condition but part of the nylon bush from the gearbox shifter was found jammed in the slider assembly for 1st 2nd gears.It worked ok but was heavier than normal to shift , I believe this happened when the transfer case was repaired 3 years ago. I have had this truck for 11 years now.The box/tcase was repaired as preventative maintenance and some of the replaced parts would be ok for reuse.The diffs and brakes have been upgraded now the transmission so only the motor is left for a rebuild to suit the turbo running at 10 lb boost.
 
sounds like a lot of work has gone into the rig, you got to love the fold down sides that make the "extra bench"...
i wish the fab shop would get my trayback done.
congrates.
BTW, why does Ozzys recommend only 10 lbs of boost on the HZJ turbo installations?
cheers
 
cheers, Mine is a 2H which I believe to be at its limit now without an intercooler, later. As for the 1HZ I believe this is to preserve the head life and seems to be about the norm for indirect injection here because of the temperatures and distances involved in actual use. Most of Oz runs aircon usually at full bore.Temperatures west of here as an example in summer range from 32 to 46 and is by no means the hottest area, look up some in West Aussie.Probably better to be conservative than have customers coming back crying because they just blew a good motor.
 
crushers said:
sounds like a lot of work has gone into the rig, you got to love the fold down sides that make the "extra bench"...
i wish the fab shop would get my trayback done.
congrates.

cheers

A lot of people like the factory tub or "well body" as the west aussies call them for the asthetics but the tray top wins hands down every time for low rust ,ease of repair/removal and load carrying ability.
Another significant point it is egonomically easier and safer to lift heavy items from the tray with 3 sides to work from.

If you make the sides strong enough they can be used as sand tracks or ramps for unloading barrows and cement mixers ;):idea::cool:
 
roscoFJ73 said:
A lot of people like the factory tub or "well body" as the west aussies call them for the asthetics but the tray top wins hands down every time for low rust ,ease of repair/removal and load carrying ability.
Another significant point it is egonomically easier and safer to lift heavy items from the tray with 3 sides to work from.

If you make the sides strong enough they can be used as sand tracks or ramps for unloading barrows and cement mixers ;):idea::cool:
Cheers, The factory tubs are few and far between over here now, can't recall the last time I saw one recently. I would expect that the tray would be far cheaper than Toyota.LOL.:D
 
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I used this dirt bike frame for lifting the gearbox in and out. The frame with the old gearbox mount makes it very easy to balance on the timber to adjust the angle. As I was unable to jack my truck high enough to put the box under the truck on the jack the frame also made it easy to get the box back on the jack while it was under the truck. The bike jack is very stable with the wide wheel base.cheers.
 
roscoFJ73 said:
Im still thinking about doing mine BBD. Whats the hard bits about a gearbox rebuild and what things do you look out for?


You got it back in yet:D?
Some of the worn parts that were replaced. I could not load these the other day as Photobucket was full. cheers
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Nice tech, bbd, I will have to copy that trick of using a bike jack for gearbox swaps.

Dave
 
That bit of marking on the input can be cleaned up, should not effect the bearing when it goes back on.

Little tricks for people without all the proper tools.

If a bearing is being really stuborn, either heat with torch or use welder and tack the inner race which is tight fit to the shaft in three passess or so and move quick with the puller.

Installing bearings without a press, attach a thick piece of steel over the edge of a table, set bearing on steel plate and heat underside of plate with torch in circles. Once you see the bearing shipping oil start to smoke its ready, grab it with some big thick gloves drop over shaft. Gently tap around inner race as it cools, otherwise there will be a tolerance behind the bearing as it shrinks.

I noticed you replace a whole lot of parts like the 3rd gear syncro assembly, little throughout thingys and tabs. The three circular clips also, very indepth rebuild and prolly worth it.


bigbrowndog said:
Some of the worn parts that were replaced. I could not load these the other day as Photobucket was full. cheers
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rainforrest375.jpg

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Radd Cruisers said:
That bit of marking on the input can be cleaned up, should not effect the bearing when it goes back on.

Little tricks for people without all the proper tools.

If a bearing is being really stuborn, either heat with torch or use welder and tack the inner race which is tight fit to the shaft in three passess or so and move quick with the puller.

Installing bearings without a press, attach a thick piece of steel over the edge of a table, set bearing on steel plate and heat underside of plate with torch in circles. Once you see the bearing shipping oil start to smoke its ready, grab it with some big thick gloves drop over shaft. Gently tap around inner race as it cools, otherwise there will be a tolerance behind the bearing as it shrinks.

I noticed you replace a whole lot of parts like the 3rd gear syncro assembly, little throughout thingys and tabs. The three circular clips also, very indepth rebuild and prolly worth it.
Hi Radds, Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. Yes some of my parts were ok to use again as you say. I sold four of my gears to a bloke to help him out, he came and saw me and offered me $100.00 for the four so he has them in his box and he is mobile again. The shaft marks on the input shaft could be cleaned with emery paper and kero but the pic did not show where the hard facing on the gear teeth was marking, probably was good for at least 12 months. Also the syncro assembly was ok and would probably be used again in a rec
on box with some repairers as it would definitely outlast the warranty period.Similar with the lay shaft. See pics. The small grove mark in the middle of the gear teeth is to identify parts for later model boxes.
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BBD, does it appear that the 1HZ and the 2H input shafts interchange completely? I need to hear that ... ;)

Dave
 

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