I just bought a new gauge cluster on eBay for my '71 FJ40. My original cluster is pretty worn out (lots of fading/scratching along with a non-working odometer) . The speedometer on the one I just bought reads in km/h but that doesn't bother me. I have been researching how to install it and have discovered some compatibility issues with these new clusters in older FJs. Apparently, a lot of it comes down to the amperage difference (50amp vs. 30amp). Can anyone shed some light in this for me? Is it an easy retrofit? Could I just take the ammeter (parts or whole) form my old cluster and put it in the new one? Thanks a lot.
Gauge cluster (Part # 83100-60180) compatibility w/ my '71 FJ40
- Thread starter voxboy
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This 83100-60180 barrel Connector kit comes with a 50a AMP meter connector pigtail as well
hooking up the 50a AMP meter requires More then just this Plug ,
and whatever u do DO NOT simply hook up your 30a AMP ring terminals to the back side studs of your new 60180 , u will
fry the new unit if u do
hooking up the 50a AMP meter requires More then just this Plug ,
and whatever u do DO NOT simply hook up your 30a AMP ring terminals to the back side studs of your new 60180 , u will
fry the new unit if u do
I bought one of these also. I assume the fuel sender will need to be changed to work with the new gauge ( I already have the new style sender on my 73). Your 71 should have the early sender unit. I found the 12 pin round plug body from a 79/80 pickup harness fits this gauge (never throw those connectors away!) . Also this speedometer doesn't have a VSS in it, I have a 3FE so it is needed for the ECU. It looks to me like the VSS parts should swap over.
new
old
new
old
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
71 will not have a barrel connector or separate plug for amp gauge. Also aren't these new speedometer in KMs and not miles. The lights in the cluster will also be different. 71 the bulbs snap in with it own wire. But the turn signal indicators were in the dash not the speedometer face. These new ones the wiring comes thru the barrel connector 71 didn't have.
But I'll finally get to go a 100 in my cruiser.
HI, where can i find this?
and can i know what is the different for BJ40 & FJ40 meter assy ? =)
Hello , matt here
Please send me a Pm ( private message ) so we can go over all the details and your barrel connector
wire color layout
thanks
- Each one of my Reproduction Cluster Meter barrel Connectors is Hand Made by Me in-house , and custom Tailored to your EXACT particular vehical Specifications .
- I Have Both ALL USA spec. EWD FSM Diagrams , and More NON-USA ones then i can count ,
- there are Indeed many many too many different OEM Color Coded Tracer Stripe Wire Layouts and
patterns to count , in my experience of Offering / Hand Making these now for over 4 years
- but , Never one i could not make Period correct application lay out that matched the corresponding
FSM / EWD accurately ................
- I Have Both ALL USA spec. EWD FSM Diagrams , and More NON-USA ones then i can count ,
- there are Indeed many many too many different OEM Color Coded Tracer Stripe Wire Layouts and
patterns to count , in my experience of Offering / Hand Making these now for over 4 years
- but , Never one i could not make Period correct application lay out that matched the corresponding
FSM / EWD accurately ................
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Coolerman
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For anyone wanting to do this swap correctly, it is a bit more complicated than it first appears.
I did this conversion for a 1970 FJ40 about three years ago.
Several things to be aware of: If installing on any FJ40/43/45 that is pre-1972
50A Amp Meter
The 50A amp meter in these clusters barely works in the FJ40 they were designed for. Ask anyone who owns one. They will tell you the meter barely moves when in use and that is with a 50 amp alternator! If you hook it up to a 30 amp alternator (using the sub-harness described below), the 50A Amp Meter probably won't move at all. (There is a LONG thread here on MUD about getting the meter to work correctly. I would suggest you read it. Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters The Amp Meter stuff starts at Post #74. )
However if you insist on hooking it up you are going to have to have to make a couple of major wiring changes to the main cowl harness.
First you will need to replace the entire main charge wire. On pre-72 FJ40's this wire runs from the Amp Meter to the starter B+ stud. This 10ga white wire will need to be removed from the harness and replaced with a longer wire that terminates out to near the battery. Next you will need to tie the 10ga white/Blue wire from the alternator to the wire you just replaced. A small bolt and nut will do the trick. Heat shrink or wrap with a few layers of tape.
Then you will need to install a 78-82 fusible link assembly on the end of the 10ga White wire near the battery. Next you will need to install a later model Amp Meter sub-harness with fuses. This runs from the fusible link, back to the Amp Meter, and contains two 5 amp fuses to protect the Amp Meter. There it terminates in a three terminal connector that plugs into the back of the Gauge Cluster. I built this harness from scratch.
Here is a semi correct/incomplete drawing of this sub-harness... Seems I did not take pics of the completed one...
Harness interface
Next you will need a harness interface sub-harness to mate the new gauge cluster to the old gauge cluster. This is a pretty simple harness. The one I made included the ability to have both the older dash turn indicators AND the new gauge cluster turn indicators work at the same time. Here is a pic of this harness: (Note: I made this from a salvaged round gauge cluster connector. These connectors are now available thanks to some hard work by Matt!) Again the sub-harness shown was for a 1970 FJ40. The harness will vary depending on what year you have. Especially the 1973 version!
The two 4 pin male connectors plug into the two 4 pin female connectors on the main cowl harness for the old gauge cluster. The two pin connector mates to a 2 pin female connector. You will have to run two wires from the gauge cluster plug area to the turn signal switch area in order to pick up the dash light turn signals. Again this part is optional.
Sensors
Now you have to swap out the fuel tank sending unit, the water temp sensor, and the oil pressure sending unit for ones that match the new gauge cluster. Failure to do this will result in gauges not working.
Final thought: you also have to deal with the Speedometer/odometer reading in Kilometers instead of MPH/Miles...
I did this conversion for a 1970 FJ40 about three years ago.
Several things to be aware of: If installing on any FJ40/43/45 that is pre-1972
50A Amp Meter
The 50A amp meter in these clusters barely works in the FJ40 they were designed for. Ask anyone who owns one. They will tell you the meter barely moves when in use and that is with a 50 amp alternator! If you hook it up to a 30 amp alternator (using the sub-harness described below), the 50A Amp Meter probably won't move at all. (There is a LONG thread here on MUD about getting the meter to work correctly. I would suggest you read it. Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters The Amp Meter stuff starts at Post #74. )
However if you insist on hooking it up you are going to have to have to make a couple of major wiring changes to the main cowl harness.
First you will need to replace the entire main charge wire. On pre-72 FJ40's this wire runs from the Amp Meter to the starter B+ stud. This 10ga white wire will need to be removed from the harness and replaced with a longer wire that terminates out to near the battery. Next you will need to tie the 10ga white/Blue wire from the alternator to the wire you just replaced. A small bolt and nut will do the trick. Heat shrink or wrap with a few layers of tape.
Then you will need to install a 78-82 fusible link assembly on the end of the 10ga White wire near the battery. Next you will need to install a later model Amp Meter sub-harness with fuses. This runs from the fusible link, back to the Amp Meter, and contains two 5 amp fuses to protect the Amp Meter. There it terminates in a three terminal connector that plugs into the back of the Gauge Cluster. I built this harness from scratch.
Here is a semi correct/incomplete drawing of this sub-harness... Seems I did not take pics of the completed one...
Harness interface
Next you will need a harness interface sub-harness to mate the new gauge cluster to the old gauge cluster. This is a pretty simple harness. The one I made included the ability to have both the older dash turn indicators AND the new gauge cluster turn indicators work at the same time. Here is a pic of this harness: (Note: I made this from a salvaged round gauge cluster connector. These connectors are now available thanks to some hard work by Matt!) Again the sub-harness shown was for a 1970 FJ40. The harness will vary depending on what year you have. Especially the 1973 version!
The two 4 pin male connectors plug into the two 4 pin female connectors on the main cowl harness for the old gauge cluster. The two pin connector mates to a 2 pin female connector. You will have to run two wires from the gauge cluster plug area to the turn signal switch area in order to pick up the dash light turn signals. Again this part is optional.
Sensors
Now you have to swap out the fuel tank sending unit, the water temp sensor, and the oil pressure sending unit for ones that match the new gauge cluster. Failure to do this will result in gauges not working.
Final thought: you also have to deal with the Speedometer/odometer reading in Kilometers instead of MPH/Miles...
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That just convinced me to stick with the ol 30 amp gauge 
JP
JP
Coolerman
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Yes, that is the location.
For anyone that has a 79 and later FJ40 those two fuses are inside a small box. The fuses are held by crimp on fuse clips. These clips can fail or corrode. I have replacement clips for these fuses. I also have single fuse holders for the clips. If you are missing the OEM small fuse box, two of these holders will get you back in business.
Forgot to add the part # is Part# FH2
For anyone that has a 79 and later FJ40 those two fuses are inside a small box. The fuses are held by crimp on fuse clips. These clips can fail or corrode. I have replacement clips for these fuses. I also have single fuse holders for the clips. If you are missing the OEM small fuse box, two of these holders will get you back in business.
Forgot to add the part # is Part# FH2
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Hi,
Sorry for the old thread, but do you have a source/link to the cluster connector (Matt?). Mines 44 yrs old and causing random gremlins.
Thanks for any help.
Bob
So I just bought a 73 fj40. It’s in the process of getting rewired by me
. We it was already mid-stream when I got it. It’s a cluster f$@k. It’s a painless kit and I want to buy this cluster you guys are talking about, seems like the perfect time... help!
. We it was already mid-stream when I got it. It’s a cluster f$@k. It’s a painless kit and I want to buy this cluster you guys are talking about, seems like the perfect time... help!
So I just bought a 73 fj40. It’s in the process of getting rewired by me
i offer the Round Cluster Meter 60180 New Barrel Connectors & the 3Pin needed Service Spec. Connector too ....
please send me a PM , i can help get you on the right path related to Painless and my 100 % Period Correct OEM-Type Cluster Service Spec. Connector Plugs , and there Color Code Tracer Stripes Wires / Leeds
I see the idea of using voltage as a current representation. But, an ammeter is an ammeter.... How much current is someone using ?? I prefer a CURRENT meter and not some circuit to try and resolve this, not using current flow. . Also, the reason most of the later FJ40s using this method is flawed. Many on here has spoken and cannot rely on some representative circuit. Ammeter and voltmeter are different measures.
So you would rather have a worthless 50 Amp Ammeter then a voltmeter that comes on almost every modern car? ok.
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A voltmeter and ammeter are to an electrical system what a pressure gauge and a flow gauge are to an oil pressure system: A voltmeter measures electrical pressure in volts; an ammeter measures electrical flow in amps.
Amp Gauges vs Volt Meters...Separating Fact From Fiction
If you own an antique vehicle built before 1965 chances are it has an amp meter in the dash. One thing you need to understand is wha...
fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com
Ammeters became obsolete with new alternator charging systems. If you still have a generator, an ammeter would be the way to go.
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