A new tip from the file "necessity is the mother of all invention".
To start off, I must have pissed off some kind of Wheeling Gods because my issues with knuckles and steering arms appears contagious. Lost three studs out of the DS knuckle on my recently acquired FJ60. I haven't even driven it ten miles yet! This comes only a couple weeks after I sheared three on the PS of the Gecko on Rubicon... WHILE I was heading out to get knuckles and studs for Krishana's truck that had broken the knuckles or sheared the studs six times already.
So here's the scenario: I get the broken studs out and go to grab my last three remaining spare studs but then realize I don't have extra cone washers and nuts to go with them. I'll skip most of the brainstorming and failed ideas and cut to the end where I came up with a cool quick-fix.
The knuckle threads are M12x1.5 - an uncommon pattern (meaning you're not likely going to find it anywhere at 8pm on a Sunday night). But then it dawned on me that most Toyota lug nuts are M12x1.5, which obviously meant that wheel studs are too. I have tons of spare wheel studs so I grabbed three and threaded them in (pic #2). I didn't stick with this method, but wanted to mention it since would make for a great emergency trail fix if you shear studs and have no proper spares. It'll take some time, but pulling a few studs from axles to use in the knuckle might get ya off the trail under your own power. The washers aren't required but make it exponentially easier to get the wheel studs tightened since you have to use channel locks on the round heads and they get to be almost flush with the steering arm before they get tight.
So the REAL fix came after I'd already installed the wheel studs... I realized that I had a set of euro-style lug bolts that were M12x1.5 also. These turned out to be a match made in heaven for this scenario.
- They are M12x1.5
- They are the perfect length
- They have conical seats that act like cone washers
- They use a large Allen-head so no worries that a regular socket won't recess into the steering arm holes if it was a regular hex-head bolt
- They are wheel studs so they're designed for use in shear strength applications
I'm pretty sure they won't stay tight very well unless you have time to put some sort of glue on the threads and let dry, but as a trail repair, just get out and re-tighten as often as possible til you can get home. Plus you could probably pick these up at any auto-parts store which are everywhere and usually open decently late.
I'm now planning to take 8 of these and drill some tiny holes in the heads so that I can secure them with safety wire. I think I'm going to replace all the studs with them and test them out on the 60 for a while to see if they hold up.