FZJ-8-my wallet (1 Viewer)

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Loaners! I like loaners, specially since most charlotte dealers have banned me from their loaner fleet.
 
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In my forensic review of my records I've uncovered the Maintenance Schedule of what should have been done. I figured I'd upload it in case anyone else would like to refer back to it.
 

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  • 1997 Land Cruiser Maintenance Schedule.pdf
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Here is the very incomplete list I've put together so far. I can't find records of the wires, plugs, & etc. Looks like I'll go ahead and re-do them. I was happy to see the trans flush at 130K

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if you sign up on toyota owners it will also check records from dealers for you



Yeah looks like its time to baseline it all and have good piece of mind
 
if you sign up on toyota owners it will also check records from dealers for you



Yeah looks like its time to baseline it all and have good piece of mind

Toyota Owners? What is this?
 
So I purchased the new cap, wires and plugs from the Toyota Dealer. The new OEM wires look exactly like the wires I have. This confirms to me that I did change out the wires with OEM goodies, sometime around 2-3 yrs ago. I do recollect doing it I just wasn't sure whether I actually ponied-up the $150+ back then or not and I wasn't exactly sure what date it was. But based upon my driving frequency of about 6500/yr. that should only be about 12-18000 miles ago at the most. That seems like a short life for OEM wires. I remember replacing the plugs at the same time as the wires. I know the cap and rotor button are relatively new as well but they are a cheap ones from NAPA or Advance. My plan is to put the new plugs / cap on but hold off on the wires for now. I rather not waste the $150 on wires that are probably still perfectly fine. What's your thoughts?

Nevertheless, I thought I would put on my big-boy mechanic pants and try some other possibilities that I've been researching on the forum...

I have been noticing many of the symptoms associated with a clogged charcoal canister, so I cracked that open, lubricated the valves, and air seems to flow a little freer now. Visually the canister and charcoal looked pretty good. There is a slight gas smell to the charcoal but that is to be expected right? I suppose I'll go ahead swap out the charcoal anyway. I also removed the EGR valve to clean. I'll post some pictures. It's dirty inside but it's not the diasaster I was expecting. Maybe I just don't know what I'm looking for. Nevertheless I'll start cleaning it up.
 
Unless there is chafing on the wires I would expect your old wires are good (and good for another 100k miles at that).

Question .... what does it do during wide open throttle?
 
Agree. Add oem cap and rotor, shoot add the dizzy oring while you are there if you have a leak.

Hold off on plug wires. Ah, so when you said red boots i think most of us were thinkimg at the dizzy end or top of plug but you are correct the bottom of plug tube is red. Also if ever in question the date of OEM wires is stamped right on them.

Someone will buy here likely if you dont need. I pulled my 1995 wires in 2009 with over 250k miles and they were fine still.
 
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Question .... what does it do during wide open throttle?

Hesitate. :). It's sporadic. It seems like I notice it more at mid-throttle but that could be cause I'm going easy on it.

Agree. Add oem cap and rotor, shoot add the dizzy oring while you are there if you have a leak.

Someone will buy here likely if you dont need. I pulled my 1995 wires in 2009 with over 250k miles and they were fine still.

I did the distributor o-ring approx 1-2 yrs ago (...again with my vague timeframes and no concrete date but I definitely did it). So we are good there, but I've wondered whether I actually got the timing / teeth correct when I put it back. I would really like to get that checked out at some point.

I've kept the new wires in the sealed package so I should be able to return them.

Now, off I go to find activated charcoal!
 
So just to answer a few questions that are undoubtedly weighing upon everyone's mind...

Was it hot today working in the blistering heat all afternoon? Yes, rumour has it that NC has recently moved closer to the Sun then the planet Mercury.

Did I also get soaked by the late afternoon thunder shower? Yes, yes I did.

Did I perform my standard ritual of hurting myself in some way? Yes, I managed to significantly smash my finger. Can u tell from the pic which finger it was?

Did I follow the direction of my wife (who is in nursing school) and go get it x-rayed? No, of course not. I'd rather have it heal back crooked than let her be right about something.

Did I swap out the cheap cap for OEM cap, plugs, do the charcoal canister rebuild, inspect the wires, inspect/clean the EGR valve, and replace some crusty lines? Yes

And most importantly is it still hesitating and is the CEL light still on? No, for the moment it's not doing either. So something I did today worked. I'm posting some pics. The cylinder 6 wire looks stickier then I expected and the cylinder 5 plug has some crud on it. Feel free to offer any thoughts. Thanks!

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More pics

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Congrats.

The plugs have good color so I wouldn't put my "finger" on that being your culprit. :lol:

There is a list of things that could have been the fix .....
Having pulled wires and putting them back means something a wire was once grounding on (perhaps #4) is no longer getting ground.
The cap/rotor button can certainly cause a miss. Any moisture in the old one? Any small cracks?
Replacing lines ..... were any of those vacuum lines?

I would not worry about a little "gunk" on the wire boots. Soaked means time for some seals.

Now just time to enjoy the ride!

Rice
 
"Did I follow the direction of my wife (who is in nursing school) and go get it x-rayed? No, of course not. I'd rather have it heal back crooked than let her be right about something. "


So true. Thanks for the laugh!!!
 
The cap I removed looked pretty good. No moisture in there and the posts had very very minor scale buildup. The lines I replaced were the two coming off the top of the charcoal canister. I also replaced the approx 4" length of line (that is the same circumference size) directly on top of the engine.

I had intentions of doing everything systematically so that I could diagnose exactly which variable changed / fixed it. But between parts runs and other distractions, before I knew it I had tore into everything all at once.

Hypothetically, if it wasn't related to spark what's your thoughts on it being either the charcoal canister or EGR valve? The CC was the only thing that I feel like I made any material changes to. I cleaned the inside of the EGR valve as best I could but I really don't know how much I accomplished there. Whereas in the previous months I had noticed a strong gas smell at startup, a major vacuum when I removed the gas cap, notably more power when it's cold, and sluggishness when it's hot. This is what got me thinking about the CC as a culprit. I wonder if that "#4" code was just the system trying to slap a name on something it couldn't accurately identify. I'm interested in your thoughts. Then again, maybe I'm over thinking it...

P.s. Rice, Jason, and everyone, thanks for weighing in. This forum really is pretty awesome. I don't think any other vehicle has a resource this extensive. I hope to meet some of you guys soon.
 
Head gasket and PHH.

Yeah, I need to add PHH to the list. Should I do that when doing the fuel filter? -Aren't they both pretty much in the same ridiculous spot?
 
No tech, but unless you had 5 fingers + thumb (6 total) and now you have 4 + thumb, I don't see a problem.o_O
 

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