Fusible Link replaced, no CEL still difficult to start, delayed crank

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Dragos80

Dragos80

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I replaced the Fusible link a few days ago due to having a hard time starting the engine. There was a 4-5 second delay between turning the ignition key and the actual engine crank.

Once it cranks there is no struggle as in discharged battery.
No Check Engine Light.

Now with the new fusible link there is no difference especially in the morning after sitting there inside the garage overnight.
It may be a shorter delay otherwise than with the old fusible link.

Any idea what may be going on?
Thanks.
 
Is the CEL on when you turn on the ignition before cranking the engine?
 
jonheld said:
Delayed starter engagement points to the starter solenoid or starter logic.
The starter circuit has nothing to do with the ECU or EFI system.
Click to expand...
That makes sense.
It's just that everything I read so far prior to replacing my fusible link, pointed to the fusible link.
 
Dragos80 said:
I replaced the Fusible link a few days ago due to having a hard time starting the engine. There was a 4-5 second delay between turning the ignition key and the actual engine crank.

Once it cranks there is no struggle as in discharged battery.
No Check Engine Light.

Now with the new fusible link there is no difference especially in the morning after sitting there inside the garage overnight.
It may be a shorter delay otherwise than with the old fusible link.

Any idea what may be going on?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Most common thing is a lack of amps to activate the starter solenoid from the old wiring.

Many people add a relay or a secondary starter solenoid.

SUMMIT CRUISERS

Thread '94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?'

Just wondering if anyone has experienced and solved this issue.
This morning I tried to start my son's 94 and I turned the key several times and no click but the instrument panel lit up with each swing of the key. I tried with the shifter in Neutral and still no crank. I then held the key in the forward/crank position for about 5 seconds then it cranked over and started right up. I have noticed this before but usually the cranking is delayed for a second or two at most. It also performs perfectly after truck is warm and has been running.

Truck facts:
94 with 280k, starter contact...
  • Like
 
JoeCova said:
Most common thing is a lack of amps to activate the starter solenoid from the old wiring.

Many people add a relay or a secondary starter solenoid.

SUMMIT CRUISERS

Thread '94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?'

Just wondering if anyone has experienced and solved this issue.
This morning I tried to start my son's 94 and I turned the key several times and no click but the instrument panel lit up with each swing of the key. I tried with the shifter in Neutral and still no crank. I then held the key in the forward/crank position for about 5 seconds then it cranked over and started right up. I have noticed this before but usually the cranking is delayed for a second or two at most. It also performs perfectly after truck is warm and has been running.

Truck facts:
94 with 280k, starter contact...
  • Like
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll do some reading.
 
Dragos80 said:
I read that entire thread. Interesting stuff. It looks like even a simple relay can do the trick.
Click to expand...
IMO, the starter solenoid is the low hanging fruit. There are 100s of threads regarding this.
Remove the starter, inspect/replace the solenoid contacts/plunger, clean out the bore of the solenoid and add some lightweight grease.

I would try to address the most likely issue as opposed to adding a band aid.
 
Dragos80 said:
I read that entire thread. Interesting stuff. It looks like even a simple relay can do the trick.
Click to expand...

Yup a relay will work totally fine as well if the issue is low current to the starter solenoid.
 
Can this wire be a 8 gauge one?

I believe the OP in the other thread said he only use 12 gauge wire on everything?
The guy in the video said 1/0 wire.
 
Dragos80 said:
Can this wire be a 8 gauge one?

I believe the OP in the other thread said he only use 12 gauge wire on everything?
The guy in the video said 1/0 wire.
Click to expand...

The ignition wire and relay wires dont need to be very big, the 1/0 wire you are likely referring to is the starter cable. I believe factory is a 4 guage which runs from the battery to the starter directly. The relay is just used to trip the starter solenoid.

Somewhere in that thread like page 6 or 7 I mention a testing cable. Try the testing cable next time when the engine wont crank so confirm the issue, once confirmed can look into a relay/solenoid.
 
Last edited:
JoeCova said:
The ignition wire and relay wires dont need to be very big, the 1/0 wire you are likely referring to is the starter cable. I believe factory is a 4 guage which runs from the battery to the starter directly. The relay is just used to trip the starter solenoid.

Somewhere in that thread like page 6 or 7 I mention a testing cable. Try the testing cable next time when the engine wont crank so confirm the issue, once confirmed can look into a relay/solenoid.
Click to expand...
So all this trick does is send more juice to the OEM starter solenoid.
In that video o page one the guy was talking about thick wires disconnected from the the thick post on the OEM solenoid and re-routed to the the Ford solenoid. Kinda got me confused.

Also reading that thread I found a link to another thread about the switch part of the key assembly which could be a cause of a drop in voltage to the starter solenoid.
 
JoeCova said:
The ignition wire and relay wires dont need to be very big, the 1/0 wire you are likely referring to is the starter cable. I believe factory is a 4 guage which runs from the battery to the starter directly. The relay is just used to trip the starter solenoid.

Somewhere in that thread like page 6 or 7 I mention a testing cable. Try the testing cable next time when the engine wont crank so confirm the issue, once confirmed can look into a relay/solenoid.
Click to expand...
I found it on Amazon too.

I might get the kit from aliexpress, but it takes a few weeks to receive it, so I will get the Amazon wire for now.


This is the one you posted.




1764526925814.webp
 
Dragos80 said:
Did I get this right from your picture?

View attachment 4039845
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with the Ford Solenoid but sounds right

This is mine:

Toyota Ignition wire -> Female connector to S post (front left).
Ground wire from T-post to body (front right)
New Battery + wire on right post
New starter wire to starter solenoid (NOT the main starter cable, that runs from the battery direct)

Elchin wiring.webp
 
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