fusibile link replacement (1 Viewer)

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workingdog

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So, after having been stranded by a blown fusible link, I was determined to replace them. The criteria I had for replacement was 2) that I be able to visually determine if the link was blown or not, and 2) that the link be readily replaceable with something fairly generic and easy to carry. Both those issues really cost me time and effort on the trail.

I know there are a lot people on here that swear by OEM fusible links. But, to me, they are 20 year old technology not in use any more. I was sure there had to be a better option.

I went with Maxi fuses. Waytek sells all the parts necessary.

Waytek | 12V Electrical Components Distributor

They can be got in a variety amperages, they are easy to carry, and it's usually possible to tell if the are blown. If your not sure, it's easy to just replace it and see. They are slow blowing like the fusible link.

The other option that I've seen on Mud that I considered were the LittelFuse MIDI bolt down fuses. Waytek has a system of holders and fuses. They are also slow blowing.

Waytek | 12V Electrical Components Distributor

I liked this option except you can't tell when their blown, you need a continuity tester.


I still have some cleaning up to do, electrical tape and plastic wire protector to put in. Below the fuses you can see a Bussman resettable breaker I'm using to feed the Ham and Subwoofer which both want dedicated power. I love the Bussman's and have another on the ECU power feed. One push, the break is open, and the car is dead. I would have used them, except I could not find information on if they are slow blow or not.

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Good idea but you're only half way there! Don't stop yet! Those electrical connections are open to the environment as the hood isn't sealed. Rain drips down along the insides along with any salt air (if you're near the beach). The contacts will corrode in no time. That collection of fuses is small. Mount a small waterproof case (fuse box) in that area and mount the electrical stuff in there. Pelican has a nice small one.
 
Okay, I'll look into that.
 
I just carry a spare oem fusible link. I’ve not had any problems. Daily driven for 25,000 miles with the ac always going and two small amplifiers.
 
OSS - did you have a pelican in mind? I can't find one small enough. Can't be more than 5.5" tall.
 
Fusible links do not instantly blow like fuses. If you’re blowing fusible links there is something very seriously wrong. I’ve rewired my power distribution from my battery utilising fusible links and fuse holders . The oem fusible link plug system was wrought with high resistance issues . That was discarded very soon after getting my LC 15 years ago.
 
To be clear, the MAXI fuses I used were slow blow fuses, like the fusible links.
 
To be clear, the MAXI fuses I used were slow blow fuses, like the fusible links.
Slow blow fuses and fusible links are quite different . Measurement from fast blow to slow blow fuse is measured in milliseconds. This is important for some sensitive devices that will be destroyed from an over current condition. Fusiblelinks will take a few seconds to open in a over current situation. Your setup should work just fine but I would carry a few spare fuses just in case. I’ve also incorporated some resettable circuit breakers 100 amp for my isolation circuit to the starting battery. I looked at the large fuses and the cost and availability of replacing them on the road . If it works for you
 
OSS - did you have a pelican in mind? I can't find one small enough. Can't be more than 5.5" tall.

A Pelican 1150 fits in that spot like a charm. Thru-bolt it through the fender with foam spacer below it to keep it off the factory wiring harness.

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Okay, I couldn't lay mine flat, so I had to find a non Pelican box. But this is what I came up with. I hate to admit it took me all day to get this installed, and I'm still not done. There's still one more Bussman breaker I want to move to a Maxi fuse in this box - that's what the 4th fuse holder is for. But I'm done for the day.

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