Fun with Electric FAN's (1 Viewer)

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Jul 26, 2013
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After much thought, reading, chatting with others in the Copper State Cruisers here in Phoenix I decided to make the jump from a fan clutch on my 1996 FJ80 to a dual custom electric. Though I understand the pros and cons around the two options, I felt electric was the best choice for me.
I have put into my design, research, install and test at least 200 Hours. Why so much time into this project -- I tried to be as thorough as I could be. This project all started when I noticed my radiator was seeping at the bottom. After researching many replacements I decided to go with the Spectra Premium. Though this post is not about that product I choose it for 2 Reasons – Moderate Price, Tanks are made from very good quality DuPont Plastics. As I was removing my Radiator Shroud and fan clutch I noted that my new Blue Fan clutch (less than 100 Hours used) was seeping CST fluid. This was the point I decided to move to an electric fan setup.

I started to look into what others were doing. I read many reviews around electric fans and my first approach was to look into dual / single electric fans made for different vehicles. I looked into several different products, one was a very close match however it wasn’t perfect fit (More Info Here) and I quickly moved on to a custom build as I couldn’t find any fair priced products that offered – High Output, Fit the FJ80 Radiator, and were sealed. You might ask why didn’t I go with SPAL Dual Fan setup? Simple answer only one of the two fans are sealed. They do not offer a dual fan with shroud and both sealed. How about Flex-a-lite – Price seem to be the biggest factor here. The best thing that came from this research was the idea of using dual fans in series for low temp, and parallel. With this in hand I started working on my product selection.

Here are the products I choose…
Spectra Radiator - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7TTTY/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fans and Controller –
2 x SPALhttp://www.amazon.com/SPAL-Paddle-Blade-Performance-Puller/dp/B008U8Q7JM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1385182829&sr=1-1&keywords=spal+30102038

SPAL Fans (30102038)
12in High Performance Puller Fan
Straight Blade
For use w/ 30Amp Fuse @ 13V
Airflow (CFM) : 1640
Size : 13.03in x 13.03in x 3.76in

2 x Spal FR-PT Jumper Harness
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JVPHR6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Harris Performance Controls << This allowed me MANY options to control my fans. In fact it allowed me to run my fans in series (Low Speed) or parallel (High)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HPC-Electronic-Radiator-Fan-Controller-Control-Module-with-Sensor-102001-/321210038541?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

Fan Shroud –
Custom made 28.5” x 16.75” on 1/8” Aluminum, mounted on 1” Aluminum Angle.
This was specially made to fit the Spectra Radiator and allowed for the Edge trim. It also doesn’t touch the radiator. Note – I made sure the fan placement didn’t interfere with the old fan pully by doing a dry fit. I have a buddy who works for a very well know sign shop here in Arizona, he made this for me.


Custom Tools –
GM8908 LCD Digital Wind Speed Temperature Measure Gauge Anemometer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VAVTHU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

High Precision G.T. Power RC Watt Meter and Power Analyzer 130 Amps
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C596UIA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relays and Electrical –
http://www.sherco-auto.com/relays.htm << Not a great website, but they came through quickly
3 x FR5084 40/60 amp Waterproof Relay
3 x BU340 Fuse Holder ATC with Snap on << Would not buy again Snap Cap breaks
3 x RH2-14 Interconnection Relay Socket 14 AWG 12" Long Leads << Had to rewire to 10 Gauge

Crimp Tools and Dies –
Ratcheting Crimping Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html

Klein Tools VDV205-036 Die Set << This fit the $9 Harbor Freight Crimp tool
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788IUJU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TERMINAL FEMALE DISCONNECT << Paired with the Crimp tools and Dies the end result was VERY professional. I used these to rewire the Relay and Fuse harness to 10 Gauge.
http://datasheets.globalspec.com/ds/983/Newarkelement14/91F9C86A-1D8F-44DE-96B6-E611A8ADF390

Current Status – I have installed this setup into my 96 TLC and have started to tweak the controller and work on the overall mounting of the components. This write up just covers some of the reasons why and the product I choose. In posts to come I’ll get into some more of the details.

I did have a chance to measure the airflow. I took these measurements from just about every part of the AC Radiator. From the front of the Radiator I am measuring ~1200-1600 Ft/m. per fan when on high. When on Low I’m seeing ~800-1100 Ft/m. They were drawing so much airflow that my shirt was actually drawn towards the radiator. I still need to measure the AMP draw but I designed around 40 AMPs per fan.

That’s what I have for now thanks for reading!

PIC's Include -
Relay Setup -- NOTE in this pic it states STOCK relay Harness, this means this is the way it came from Beuler. This is not a Toyota Stock part.
Molding
FAN Control
FAN Layout

12/5/2013 Update --
Added these two Switches to my design for On/Off and Low/High fan speed
Cole Hersee 5832701 SWITCH ROCKER SPST SINGLE & DUAL DEPENDENT WEATHER RESISTANT ROCKER SWITCH

12/08/2013 Update --
My TLC has an upgraded alternator to be able to support this FAN install.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H3AWD8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relay.jpg


Molding.jpg


Molding 2.jpg


HPC.jpg


layout.jpg
 
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More PICS --

Pre Cut Fit
2 x Shroud Measurements
2 x Completed Mount

Dry Fit.jpg


28 Half.jpg


16 3_4.jpg


done 2.jpg


done one.jpg
 
I really like the shroud. Any idea of an approximate cost for the whole set up?

Thank you... My friend really worked hard to come up with it. He really didn't charge me much for it either.

For the fan setup with shroud and not the other items (tools, etc) I would guess about $350ish...

If you hit the links above it should lead you to pricing on all the products.... I hope this helps...

Thanks... Matt..
 
hows it performing?
 
hows it performing?

I just finished up the switches this week and have done some testing (~5 hours of driving). So far it is performing exactly as designed. Granted Arizona has been unseasonable cold these past weeks so I haven't been able to test in warm conditions yet.

The controller allows the engine to warm up to ~180F, once it hits 180F the fans come on in low mode. Once the temp rises to 190F the fans turn on to high, until it hits 180F then back to low. I like this setting as it allows the engine to come up to a normal operating temp before turning on. This would be ideal for those in cold environments who need to warm up their engine.

The two switches I installed do the following.
Switch 1 - This allows me to power down the FAN system anytime I want to. A use case could be a water crossing

Switch 2 - This allows me to run the FAN System in High mode. A use case would be stuck at a street light and my AC needs a boost.

Here are a few pics of the final install, wiring, and the switches...

IMG_20131123_111506_552.jpg


IMG_20131123_111536_637.jpg


IMG_20131204_213147_537.jpg


IMG_20131204_213245_757.jpg
 
cool, I sent dimensions and photos of your build to a local metal fabrication/ Air condition shop- estimated cost with all edges welded $200.00 and with 2 holes cut included. I am getting ready to start gathering together the parts you listed. any chance you could post a wiring diagram?
 
On the Shroud measurements, mine are VERY specific the Spectra Radiator that I just installed. In fact the Spectra has an engine facing flange that my shroud rests on. Unless you have the exact radiator I have I would highly recommend you measure the radiator in your vehicle and plan out where how to mount it.
If you plan to install the edge molding you'll want to make sure you take its size into account for your overall measurements.

The wiring diagram is posted on the HPC site. The design I went with is on Page 7 - Dual Fan Configuration – Two Speed Control. Only changes I made were -- I wired the HPC controller RED wire and relay Post 86 to a Switch 1 and the HPC controller BLUE wire (Fan - Low/HI) to Switch 2.

Here is the main page for the controller -- http://hpcontrols.ca/?item=102001
Here is the PDF that shows all the different ways you can wire it...
http://hpcontrols.ca/media/files/HPC Radiator Fan Controller 102001.pdf
 
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I attached an updated PIC around the details in my system

Here is a description of those changes...

Switch 1 -
Added a inline 7.5 AMP Fuse, chances are you could go less, but this is the smallest I had
Switch 1 is connected to all Relays Post 86 and the red wire for the HPC Controller
Purpose is to have manual control over the FAN system power.

Switch 2 -
When the HPC Controller Blue wire goes to ground it enables high fan mode. I am using Switch 2 to control this.

FAN Fuse - All have been updated to 40AMPS, this was a recommendation by SPAL

I hope this helps... Enjoy!

Fan Wire Diagram.jpg
 
That looks really good. Mechanical fans are great for max cooling power, but it's so nice to be able to shut down electric ones for water crossings.
 
Thanks Doug...

One thing not mentioned in this post is I over bought everything... Like extra relays, fuses, and I even bought an extra HPC Controller. I just wanted to be sure if I did have a break down while out in the sticks I had the parts to fix it.

I think that is the biggest advantage that mechanical fans bring... simplicity....
And for electric is being able to run the fans on high when you want to = AC that works.... there's nothing worse than being stuck in traffic and its 110F in Phoenix and that fan clutch doesn't cut it.

I don't want to side track this post too much but those are some of my thoughts around going electric.

Thanks!
 
I'd be interested in hearing how the system performs once it is indeed 110 degrees out there :cheers:
 
Thank you! I appreciate the updated diagram. Texas summers can be brutal too at the stop light and in rush hour traffic. Just installed a new radiator not too long ago. the original fan shroud was extremely brittle on removal and I have always wanted to swap over to electric fans for reasons like water crossing and long long waits in traffic. the fans will be the big cost items- looked at the manufacture website- those fans are discontinued- but, there appears to be plenty of them availlable on the shelf.
 
On the Shroud measurements, mine are VERY specific the Spectra Radiator that I just installed. In fact the Spectra has an engine facing flange that my shroud rests on. Unless you have the exact radiator I have I would highly recommend you measure the radiator in your vehicle and plan out where how to mount it.
If you plan to install the edge molding you'll want to make sure you take its size into account for your overall measurements.

The wiring diagram is posted on the HPC site. The design I went with is on Page 7 - Dual Fan Configuration – Two Speed Control. Only changes I made were -- I wired the HPC controller RED wire and relay Post 86 to a Switch 1 and the HPC controller BLUE wire (Fan - Low/HI) to Switch 2.

Here is the main page for the controller -- http://hpcontrols.ca/?item=102001
Here is the PDF that shows all the different ways you can wire it...
http://hpcontrols.ca/media/files/HPC Radiator Fan Controller 102001.pdf

I will be taking my old radiator to the metal shop for precise measurements- its identical to my new one with the only exception of a wider bottom tank.- but, shouldnt be an issue with the design- as the fin and frame area are identical.
 
Hey Thad - you are welcome and I'm glad to hear you making the right shroud for your radiator. Good luck with it and post up some pics when you git r' done ;)

I'll be doing some AMP draw measurements over the weeks to come and will post up the results.

Thanks!
 
Just curious what about the Taurus fan?


I've seen some application of the Taurus fan, I didn't like how it mounted and I wasn't sure if the fan was sealed or not.

For some folk it is a very good choice, for me I liked the idea of dual fans and great control over those fans.

I hope this helps... Thanks for the question...
 
I've seen some application of the Taurus fan, I didn't like how it mounted and I wasn't sure if the fan was sealed or not.

For some folk it is a very good choice, for me I liked the idea of dual fans and great control over those fans.

I hope this helps... Thanks for the question...
That does help. I was curious because I always hear about them
 
Switch 1 - This allows me to power down the FAN system anytime I want to. A use case could be a water crossing

Very cool, but what reminds you to turn it back on?
 
Very cool, but what reminds you to turn it back on?

I've thought about that too. I had manual control in my old Pathfinder so you really need to pay attention. At some point I plan to look into integrating a digital temp meter, perhaps with some sort of alarm. Its an enhancement I've been thinking of but it needs development.

Thanks for the thought and I'm totally open to suggestions around this topic.
 

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