Full Choke

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Threads
15
Messages
37
'71 FJ40 needs full choke, even when warm.
Momentum of plowing into snow banks sometimes pushes choke in a little, then she stalls.
Have good vacuum, have good compression.
The fuel soleniod makes a good solid 'click' when I jump wire it to the battery.

Is there a way to adjust carb if it's running lean?

Derf62
 
you have symptoms of a vacuum leak.....
 
Did you do the water test for vacuum leaks and checked the PCV?
 
Water test for vacuum leak?? Never heard of it but would like to try.

How do you go about it?

Derf62 (and 40)
 
It's been discussed many times here. Fill a spray bottle with water and spray around your vacuum lines, carb and manifold ports, etc. If your RPM drops, that's because water got sucked in.

I would start with a visual check of your vac hoses.
 
Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. I had the same problem when I installed my weber carb. I desmogged my 1.5F, and couldn't get it to idle. When I pulled out the choke, it ran fine. I took that stupid carb off three times and ruined a gasket set in the process. I was so pissed off I had to walk away for a day or two. Then I got a can of brake cleaner and started spraying around the base. Sure enough, the adapter plate that came w/my Weber didn't fit quite right. About ten seconds w/a file and it was fixed. I put my weber back on, and voila!! Runs great.
 
I just finished putting my 79 back together after having the intake and exhaust manifold machined. It idles at 500rpm. Try taking a proprane torch and move it around your intake and vacumm lines the idle will change when propane is sucked into the leak. It is less flammable than carb cleaner and also less messy than wd40. A standard propane torch will work as long as you dont light it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom