jim land
SILVER Star
I like the "vintage look" valve cover
Builds Fugly's Yota (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FuglyYota
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- #82
Motor ready to go in tomorrow. Trans and cases already in.
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- #83
Clutch and flywheel on, and in.
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- #84
Put the headers on for fit up, started parking some accessories. Hooked up the clutch slave cylinder, cycled the pedal and clutch came out. Once. Did it again and clutch slave blew 
Fun. Need to remember what it is, clutch setup is a bastardization of parts. Pretty sure the master is late 70’s cruiser, and slave is a Nissan 280z 
. I’ve replaced it once, and it worked for a while, so time to try again.
Fun. Need to remember what it is, clutch setup is a bastardization of parts. Pretty sure the master is late 70’s cruiser, and slave is a Nissan 280z . I’ve replaced it once, and it worked for a while, so time to try again.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Are those AA motor mounts?
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- #86
Best I can tell is that it was an old Downey Off Road V8 swap kit. Similar to the aa mount setup.
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- #87
No pics, but lots of little progress in the past few weeks. Clutch master and slave seem in be in synch after replacing the slave. New brake lines mostly installed, new calipers in front are on and Dad came over today and put new wheel cylinders in the rear drums. While he was back there we also pulled the bottom 2 leafs out of the FJ60 packs. Rear was too high up after the engine went back in and stiff as an oxcart. Much better now. I also got all new transfer case front and rear output flanges, plus a new rear pinion flange. Everything is now 66 x 66 mm pattern which matches the driveshafts I have from an FJ60. So they bolt up to either end but both are too long. No problem, I cut them up and have a nice piece of 2.5” ID schedule 40 galvanized pipe that will be the new body and fits nicely into the sections that are left. For the rear, that will be a trail spare and make due until I order a real 1/4” wall shaft. For the front, I’m hoping it’s good enough to be what gets used. It won’t balance past 20-25 mph, but whatever.
Dad and I also moved the engine over 1 mount hole to the drivers side, once I put the fenders and front clip on it was clear everything was off. I also put the hole and fittings for the EFI fuel return in the tank, the Holly Sniper kit I’ve had for 18 months now in the basement (!!!!!) came with all of that.
The new distributor comes this week, and that’s the last thing needed to finish the engine off, get the EFI on and hopefully get it running in September. So much little stuff to still do though, and before it gets wheeled I still need to make a trans/transfer case skid plate and rock sliders. The list never ends.......
Dad and I also moved the engine over 1 mount hole to the drivers side, once I put the fenders and front clip on it was clear everything was off. I also put the hole and fittings for the EFI fuel return in the tank, the Holly Sniper kit I’ve had for 18 months now in the basement (!!!!!) came with all of that.
The new distributor comes this week, and that’s the last thing needed to finish the engine off, get the EFI on and hopefully get it running in September. So much little stuff to still do though, and before it gets wheeled I still need to make a trans/transfer case skid plate and rock sliders. The list never ends.......
- Thread starter
- #88
Driveshafts cut, prepped, ready to tack up and fit in place.
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- Jul 22, 2012
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I see you are also a connoisseur of galvanized fence post driveshafts. A man of taste
How do you cut a driveshaft, get it welded up straight and balanced without all the balancing tools? Or do you just not care since this rig will only be moving slow?
If you have access to a large lathe, it's not that hard to balance it out as long as it was welded straight. Oxy torch and patience.
"Access to a large lathe" would be part of the balancing tools I'm referring to
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 484
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- 14,261
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
Shop-balanced driveshafts are overrated
A large lathe is not a balancing tool. The larger the lathe, the more tendency it will have to absorb the imbalance in the part chucked up. Straight parts and square cuts on a lathe? Absolutely. Balancing for a high speed driveshaft? Not so much.
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- #95
Balanced? Ha, you’re funny.
Mostly I don’t care. It’s nearly impossible to rotate the rear shaft on anything I have in the garage and see runout and try to get it straight. That one is an eyeball job at best. For the front, theres a trick. I tacked the shaft together, mounted it under the rig, unlocked front hubs, put transfer case in 2wd. Boom, you can spin the front shaft with very little resistance and get a decent idea of wobble and runout. I then took a hard rubber mallet massaged until things were as straight as I could see. It’s not great, but not bad either. The front will only be engaged going below 25 mph, so it should be fine for what i‘m expecting of it. The rear is effectively a trail spare/around the block shaft until I have a real shop make a balanced shaft.
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- #96
That some good stuff there. I work in construction, so I can get scraps of whatever. I can’t remmber if that was fence material, or galvanized process piping from an infrastructure job. Either way, it’s at least schedule 40, and I've used it before with good results.
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- #97
Interior cleaning up, need shift boots to cover the holes for three transfer case shifters
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- #98
It ran this afternoon for the first time in over 20 months. Wiring and such are not cleaned up or final routed, brakes still not working, lots of little stuff to do, but it ran. Holly sniper EFI fired on the first crank, surprised me how fast it caught. Ran for 30 minutes to break in the cam per Comp’s instructions varying between 2000-2500 RPM, had 50psi of oil pressure whole time and temp was 190 most of time, never got above 200. I have a few little oil leaks, one at the breather, one at the oil filter adapter, maybe one at the rear of the pan. Will deal with that in AM. Drained oil and have a bit of metal in it, but only in the filter and it’s very fine. May be from machining process, may be from cam break in. Will adjust valves tomorrow and run for another 30 minutes, then change oil and filter again and see whats up. Hopefully nothings eating itself, find out more tomorrow.
EFI seems to function as instruction say it should. Exhaust is back to sidepipes with glassspacks, it sounds rowdy. Gonna have to tweak it a little to do rock sliders, but first goal is running & driving.
EFI seems to function as instruction say it should. Exhaust is back to sidepipes with glassspacks, it sounds rowdy. Gonna have to tweak it a little to do rock sliders, but first goal is running & driving.
What headers are those?
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- #100
Old school fender well units that go outside the frame. Probably Downey or AA units from a few years ago when the P.O. Did the engine swap.