Fuel Tank hose/Evap line???

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Joined
May 26, 2013
Threads
30
Messages
831
Location
Bolingbroke, Georgia
Big Question:

Where does this hose connect to? It apparently is connected to the steel line that goes to the evap system/charcoal cannister under the hood. However, when we tookt the fuel tank out, i was not there and do not see where it could connect. The memory on the hose makes it want to connect to the plastic evap chamber thing that has four lines going to the fuel tank. However, there is not a connection there.

Anyone know where it goes?

vent tube on fuel tank.webp
 
what year rig? The 77 has the vapor seperator can right where your pic shows...the line going to the charcoal can under the hood plumbs to the vapor seperator thru a check valve at the top of the seperator can. then there would be 4 lines going to the fuel tank leaving the bottom of the seperator. at the charcoal can, there will be the line from the vapor can, a line going to the VSV(which feeds back into the intake tract while the engine is running under certain conditions) and a third line which just enters the drivers body mount channel and is open ended to serve as a vent. HTH
 
That explains alot. Apparently, the check valve is broken. It has a flared flat surface on one side now with no way to connect to a hose. I will post photo tomorrow. Can you still get the check valves?

Tomorrow may be the day to re-install my fuel tank with all new hoses, and the filler neck supplied by the Delancy. The connection to the evap condenser or whatever u call it can wait since it is in an accessible spot. Thanks for the help.

Check out the photos of Delancy's hinges I rebuilt at https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...ety/764086-hinge-rebuild-service-maybe-5.html and let me know what you think. I need to know from an expert if it is done correctly. Thanks.
 
Ok, it seems the issue is resolved about what it is. Now, I need to know how to bypass the checkvalve or find a cheap replacement. Beno quoted my $47 (MUD price) for a new one. I had to pop a nitro after that! Anyone have a suitable replacement idea?
 
Thanks for the offer. I have two already! What about the check valve? Would you be interested in just sending it?

My check valve cracked and would fill the cabin with gas vapors :vomit:
I just replaced it with a double-sided brass nipple. I didn't see much peril to it, when the tank gets cold and contracts, it will just pull air back through the charcoal can...
 
Pablo, why not just connect the hose directly to the evap device? Eliminate the check valve altogether....

Anyone think this is a bad idea?
 
I think I can do better than that! I have debated the necessity of the check valve. If vapor goes to the front, it will end up in the intake. If it goes the other way, well, it will just return to the fuel tank. There is no opening for it to leak from. But really...I don't know.
 
Pablo, why not just connect the hose directly to the evap device? Eliminate the check valve altogether....

I think there was a bit of hose on the evap device already, and I did not want to risk breaking the plastic.
 
Check Valve

Here is the infamous check valve. Why not pull this off of the evap/fuel separator assembly and just connect the charcoal can line directly to the evap assembly?

I see no way to connect a hose to this. Thoughts?

Check Valve.webp
 
if it's just a check valve, why not just use another check valve? toyota must've thought it was needed, but i don't see why it has to be that way. disclaimer : i do not at all claim to understand any of the b.s. emissions or re circulatory crap on these rigs.
 
Toyota wants $50 MUD price for the valve! I can put 20 in my pocket. I researched for other fuel line vapor check valves. Delco one is also $50. Why can't it be deleted?
 
it is most likely for warmer climates where fuel is going to vaporize quickly. the check valve adds some pressurization to the canister thus lowering the boiling point of the fuel allowing more to condense back into liquid and back into the tank, FWIU and also serves to prevent liquid fuel from getting to the charcoal canister. I think the 60 series has these valves as well...yep, sor lists them for 40/55 and for 60s both seem to be the same- 50 bucks special order new or 25 used...
 
From past personal experience, it's probably there as much to deal with altitude and related fuel vapor pressure issues as anything. I know the fuel system in my 76 Pig struggled in Colorado.

I assume the check valve lets atmosphere into the tank when it goes to vacuum? Or does it lets excess pressure out? That could be the reason for the cost, you don't want something to turn your fuel system into a flamethrower I suppose...

So my guess is it was a fix in 77 for problems like I had with my 76. Stay out of Colorado and probably not too big an issue if you just plug it?
 
From past personal experience, it's probably there as much to deal with altitude and related fuel vapor pressure issues as anything. I know the fuel system in my 76 Pig struggled in Colorado.

I assume the check valve lets atmosphere into the tank when it goes to vacuum? Or does it lets excess pressure out? That could be the reason for the cost, you don't want something to turn your fuel system into a flamethrower I suppose...

So my guess is it was a fix in 77 for problems like I had with my 76. Stay out of Colorado and probably not too big an issue if you just plug it?

my understanding of how the system worked was there was some resistance both directions, but also to allow for differential pressures, and aid in fuel recovery. I bought one from SOR a few years back...I'll bet that any toyota in the eras compatible(75-87 at least) would have one...might hit a pick and pull...look in the sail panels and trunks;)
 
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