Fuel Pump R&R: Tips, Tricks, Advice

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Went to start the LX 450 after a dr's appointment. It cranked and caught as usual. Then the motor quit after about 10 seconds and could not be restarted. Ran through the
checklist by Romer in the FAQ. Seemed to be power back there, bug found t...
No fuel from the return line off the fuel regulator

Did not hear fuel pump running when power applied to Terminal #3 of fuel pump relay plug. All fuses are good.

To get to the fuel pump, the scond row seats how to come out, then the carpet to gain access to a hatch that acesses the hatch above the fuel tan . I plan on getting thE filter plus the soc tubing filte rthin gv, associated tyubing and the fuel hatch gasket. Is there Anything else?

I searched the forum and there's not much sprecifically desling with the fuel pump in the tank.







 
You can also apply power directly to the pump connector at the top of the tank isolating it completely.

Replacing the pump and sock is very straight forward.
 
I remember doing mine with almost a full tank, and thinking it would be easier to pull & reinstall with less fuel in the tank. ( open can of gas Kind of creepy also)
 
Once you get past the carpet, remove three JIS plus (looks like philips head) screws, remove oval hatch, clean out dirt/dust, unplug the electrical connection, slide off the return hose (simple squeeze hose clamp slip fit), unbolt the high pressure fuel banjo (17mm) - fuel may come out, remove and discard sealing washers, remove the JIS plus screws around the perimeter, then carefully remove the pump and level sender (have to rotate it on the way out).

Unclip the electrical fitting and the two hose clamps. The pump, rubber hose, clamps, filter, clip, and rubbery isolator come off easily.

You can (should) also replace the banjo bolt, two sealing washers, rubber flange seal, and any mounting bolts that may be buggered up (say from a prior owner using a phillips screwdriver instead of JIS plus driver).

Assembly is the reverse of removal.

Not a difficult job other than the gas fumes.

My dealer gave me the wrong isolator rubber - part was superseded - so I reused the good shape original.
 
Pull the fuel pump fuse.
Start and run the truck until it dies. This will reduce the fuel pressure in the high pressure hose so it doesn't spray all over when you crack it loose.

Follow what @CharlieS said above.

You may have to install a spacer under the fuel pump, depending on what brand you are replacing it with. New other brand pumps are shorter and narrower.
 
Pull the fuel pump fuse.
Start and run the truck until it dies. This will reduce the fuel pressure in the high pressure hose so it doesn't spray all over when you crack it loose.

Follow what @CharlieS said above.

You may have to install a spacer under the fuel pump, depending on what brand you are replacing it with. New other brand pumps are shorter and narrower.
Thanks for posting this. I did that when I replaced mine, but forgot to mention it!
 
Thanks everyone for the useful advice! Got my order in and going out to remove the sleeper/drawer conversion this afternoon so I have ready access once the parts arrive.
 
I'm running the V8 4Runner pump (Denso made in Japan) after a tip from a friend. It requires splicing a supplied pigtail, but works great, comes with the hose and new spring clamps.
 
I'm running the V8 4Runner pump (Denso made in Japan) after a tip from a friend. It requires splicing a supplied pigtail, but works great, comes with the hose and new spring clamps.
Sounds like a viable option. I went with all OEM because the cost from partsouq wasn't ridiculous. With the sleeper conversion in there I don't to want to replace this until it has another 300,000 miles on it. I would certainly avoid the plethora of ~$30 pumps out there on ebay.
 
Partsouq.com and DHL are a great team if you needs parts fast and cheap. Ordered Sunday morning and arrived about 2pm today in the Midwest. Gonna put it together tonight and then it hopefully starts...
 
Pump was definitely dead,measured an open circuit instead of within the proper range of low resistance when tested per FSM at the connectyor atop the tank. This was confirmed by it being absolutely dry above the low tank level when pulled. After the post-replacement no start, I added several gallons to the tank to be certain the red low tank light should not have been on. The resistance at the connector on top was also a proper 2.0 ohms, within the FSM range of good. I found no blown fuses when I originally went through the checklist, but will revisit that along with the rest of the list to make certain nothing was overlooked or changed since I forst went over things. Will post up some pics that will be useful for otghers replacing their fuel pumps later.
 
Worked the Illini-Ohio State baseball game to day (10-5, Illini), then a big storm post game and the truck is outside, so limited time, but started rechecking my work. The fusible links alkl had continuity. Found I'd stuck the 15 amp EFI fuse under the hood had been stuck back into a spare fuse hole next to the proper location. Moved it into the right spot, then hooked the coil back up. Was really hoping for a start, but still no joy. Gotta test the coil again now that the fuse is right. Will continue after daylight comes.
 
Pump was definitely dead,measured an open circuit instead of within the proper range of low resistance when tested per FSM at the connectyor atop the tank. This was confirmed by it being absolutely dry above the low tank level when pulled. After the post-replacement no start..
You get it running yet?
 
I'm late to the party but this is what I did to the carpet on top of the fuel pump access. Simple half moon cut so that I can simply flap it over for access, not that I have a habit of playing wit the fuel pump!! Also, the green wire runs up/over the sharp edge of the pump bracketrie thing that needs to be taken care of so that the insulation doesn't cut through and blow your EFI fuse in the middle of nowhere.


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You get it running yet?
Yes, rechecking things led me back to the fuel pump! I had the connector atop the tank fully seated, but it was intermittent. It did work for several hours and about 15 miles running errands, etc. This was rather frustrating, but gotta remember it\s a nearly 30 year old truck. I burnished the contacts then applied the special juice I use for good contact on my model railroad, CRC 26-2. So far, so good. Definitely did not enjoy futzing around atop a full tank of gas this timne. I'll update with a pic set laytyter on.
 
Yeah, definitely. I'd swapped in a new one. I'll have more to say when I get the pic set posted.
Pics had captions but they seem to have been lost in posting and will elaborate further when I’m home from the game.
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