P0401 appears to likely have been a prior issue. I did have a rusted passageway going from VSV to EGR valve and this may have been part of the issue. P0401 is gone at so far - replaced a ton of stuff but feel better knowing is new. I bought a mityvac to use for testing along with a vacuum pressure gauge and Innova multimeter. This was awesome and made testing EGR components, etc easy. Would recommend these things, got all from Amazon. I used the testing recommendations noted previously in the "vsv the easy way" post about checking the VSV (did this for fuel and egr vsv's). FSM was very helpful.
For the fuel injector issues - I believe this may have occured after having cleaned. I went to a reputable local cleaner who specializes in high end sports cars here in town - he has a 1400RWHp Viper and a Shelby Cobra, AWESOME. Not sure but I believe the issue arose after the cleaning. Oh well. The fuel pressure testing really was beneficial but I did not know the initial norms. My findings currently show fuel pressures coming off the rear of the fuel filter being 32 running, 40-42 with vacuum unhooked on FPR, and 54-56 when fuel return line on FPR clamped. Pressures drop very slowly with all new injectors and drop from 32 or so to 28-30 after 21 minutes. Previously they would drop to low 20's after 21 min. Then after sitting for 1-1.5 hrs my fuel pressures now drop to 20-25 or so where previously they would drop to around 5-10. So big difference here. If i knew these normal's i would have suspected fuel injector sooner. The information I found online made me believe that fuel pressure should stay above 21 for 5 min after car shut off - but my findings are much higher than this. I have found that the pump raises pressure very quickly so a pressure at 0 when starting is not the issue, My issue was that the small leak (2-3drops/min - fsm states should be <1 drop/min) was causing a drop in fuel pressure, flooding of a cylinder, and the hard start issue. Therefore if someone has future concerns for a leaking injector - if it is a small leak you may not note if remove spark plugs and smell for fuel - only may note if doing fuel pressure testing. My definitive test was to have them again flow tested at injector service place and leak down test done noting leak.
Tips I have learned from doing this work. If you remove the throttle body but don't have to clean it - just unbolt and set to side - those cables will drive you crazy. I hate doing the TPS adjustment. The intake can be removed fairly quickly by 1)getting all the bolts on front of intake (near radiator in front of brace) from top of truck, getting front bolt on back half of intake from above, getting next rearward bolt from directly below under truck, and getting last 2 bolts on back/inside of intake from rear of wheel-well opening using a wobble socket. This made this much easier than my first try and I have done this atleast 4 times now. The brace bolt is hard to get back in - had a 200 lb guy pulling down intake to get to thread back in. I wrapped the wiring with heat tape from Amazon as well.
All in all I am glad I did this job. Love being able to work on the Landcruiser on my own and learning - however wish it hadn't taken so long to fix. Wife got a little frustrated with it for sure, however she loves riding it now - we take 30 min-1hr joyrides on weekends around town. No i need to get the ARB, OME 2.5 heavies, and Slee rear dual swing out, and 33's. Still trying to decide on which 33's. BFG A/T, M/T or Duratrac's etc.
Thanks for all your help. Especially Elhombre, Beno, Summitcruisers. Helped alot when I wanted to take the cruiser out and burn it to the ground at times.
