FRP Top tag replacement (1 Viewer)

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I realize that this is a SUPER-niche issue, but on the off chance anyone ever has this problem again...

I lost one of my "FRP Top" nameplates from the B pillar on my BJ73. There is an ugly hole and bolt hidden behind there, so it looks like s*** with the plate missing.

However these parts can't be purchased from Toyota (separately from the top itself, anyway) and my classifieds search hasn't born fruit in over a year.

SO.

I made a 3D model of the tag, which you can have 3D printed or machined. Its a fairly good match.

(Needs paint obv.)

3D file is online here should you need it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yu28mvw1h01vlmw/FRPTOP.stl?dl=0

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Very cool!

How will you apply it? Double sided tape?
 
Well done. I would think 3M emblem tape would work just fine. I had some turbo emblems made up using the same process. They tend to curl a bit on the edges after time so I would make sure the tape goes right to the edges.
 
At a 3-d printer workshop some college kids showed how they got great finish results by suspending the plastic parts over fuming acetone for a SHORT amount of time. Looked like factory chess pieces (their project.)

Are these thick enough to accept locating dowels?
 
Well done. I would think 3M emblem tape would work just fine. I had some turbo emblems made up using the same process. They tend to curl a bit on the edges after time so I would make sure the tape goes right to the edges.

Great idea, thanks.

At a 3-d printer workshop some college kids showed how they got great finish results by suspending the plastic parts over fuming acetone for a SHORT amount of time. Looked like factory chess pieces (their project.)

Are these thick enough to accept locating dowels?

The only problem with the acetone smoothing is that it attacks sharp corners preferentially. So it's good for smooth/rounded objects, but can obliterate details (like my lettering) on polygonal objects.

I think in this case I'll just use Bondo and elbow grease to smooth things out.

Only 4.5mm thick. The OEM pieces used snap-in dowels but this won't be strong enough. The tape cruiserdan mentioned is probably a winner.
 
"The only problem with the acetone smoothing is that it attacks sharp corners preferentially. So it's good for smooth/rounded objects, but can obliterate details (like my lettering) on polygonal objects."

Ummmm, you obviously know far more about it than I do. Maybe more than I ever will.
You did a great job with the 3D model.
 
You sell me the badges?
 
If it's merely a matter of unbolting the badge, if anyone else needs, hit me up.

The plate actualy is mounted to the top with 2 pins that click inside......most of the time when you try to remove it those 2 pins snap off.

I should have a few of these around in my shop and for sure in my next container.

Joe
 
Hmmm.....me be sawzall out the pillar?

Be the easiest way to make the decision on whether the hardtop will remain. Ha.


I have 2 already cut FRP tops on the way and one complete in about same condition as yours,perfect ones are hard to get so better think twice before you cut yours ;)
 
One my BJ74 there are 3 pins on each badge plate. Each plastic pin has a rusted spring clip or collar on it. The rusty collar is what caused some of the pins to break off. They also tore up the mounting holes in the top when removed.
 
Hmmmm......so the top is valuable, then?

Even with two layers of textured paint from at he discount rack at Lowes?

Not really valuable but it will be hard to find a better one.
 
Joe ,
I'll take a pair of FRP top tags ,
Thanks

Marvin
 

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