Can someone please tell me how to remove the wheel bearing race?
Front wheel bearing race
- Thread starter mcalvarez73
- Start date
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You will hav to remove the hub out of the spindle and then push it out.
- Thread starter
- #3
The hub has been removed. Is there a special tool to remove the races?
use a brass punch and hammer. if you have an aluminum rod that will work as well, you want something that is softer than the hub so you don't damage it when you hammer out the race
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Brass drift and hammer from inside out.
I used a punch with dull edges. Tap in a circular motion, two light hits at a time.
Is the bearing shot?
Is the bearing shot?
FYI, a steel drift can damage the new race when you drive it in. Use only brass or aluminum for installing races.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Search youtube for 100 front end, one of the one time vendors here did a really good video on a full front end rebuild.
The way to drive a new race in if you do not have a soft drift, is to take a cut off tool and cut a slot in the old race. Set the old race on the new one and tapping the old race, drive the new one in.
Just been here for how to remove the race. But I have another question. I saw some video, the guy just put on one axle nut and pull the rotor with knuckle very quick and hard, then he can remove the seal and the bearing, so~is this a safe/right way to do?
Sure, you can get the seal and bearing out that way no problem so long as you pull straight out. Probably about as likely to mar something doing that as going ham with a seal puller.
Thanks. So the race will stop getting in somewhere by itself ( is there an edge inside the hub to stop it?) or I need to watch how deep it goes?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
There are internal lips to the hub that the race should sink against (one for each race). Once there, you can TRY pounding it in further ... let us know how that goes!
I think we're talking about two separate things. You can pulling the hub off with the seal in place and it will pop the seal out because it pulls against the bearing. The races will only come out if coaxed with a punch or a drift or something like that to work them out.
There is no way to install the races by smashing the bearing in there without a very high likelihood you damage the bearings in the process. I would just go with tapping them in until they are firmly seated on all sides. You can feel when the race is set.
Sorry for the confusion. yes, I talked about "install new race" (its second question from me,sorry ), your answer about pull out the old "seal and bearing" is very clear to me. My question was "we taping when it stops by itself" or we need to watch how deep it goes, I believe your answer is "it should/set by itself, something will stop it at some point". Let me know if my understanding was wrong.
When you're hitting the race in, it won't "click" or "snap" into place. That being said, while you are tapping on it (going around and tapping on opposing sides) you will feel it bottom out when the race hits the surface it rests again in the back of the hub. Tap all the way around making sure its seated properly and then its good to go.
Yes, you understand it perfectly. There IS a 'stop' built into the hub and you can turn a (Clean) hub over and look to see when either race has seated against the shoulder. Here is a picture looking down into the hub from the 'inner' race side. You can see the 'cut outs' spaced 90° apart (four of them) that let you use a punch to remove the old race. But this also lets you visually check if the new one in fully seated.
Then by turning the hub over and looking in from the other direction you can see the opposite race and its position. You'll also 'feel' a new race bottom out and each time you strike whatever seating tool you are using (drift punch) it will rebound sharply and sound different.
I will use an old race to 'start' the new one squarely in the bore....but then I immediately go to a SOFT drift punch to avoid damaging any surfaces. You'll have to 'dress' the end of the punch once or twice since it will deform a bit driving in the harder race.
Thank you so much for the details! Do you have some tricks to remove the race? Just brass drifft tapping around?
Particularly the bigger race, seems hard to reach~
Just use a long punch. Each race is removed (tapped out) from the opposite side it goes in. Once the race starts moving, it will tap out pretty easily. Just keep moving the punch from one side to the other (punch one spot, move directly across from that, etc).
So basically strike it at the four Cardinal Points (North, then South, then East, then West) if that makes sense. Or 90° increments will work too. Same thing installing the new one. You want to get the new one started 'square' in the bore, then just tap all around the circumference of it. It will go in slowly.
Some folks cut a slot in the old race (so it doesn't get stuck in the bore) and then place it upon the new race and drive it in that way. But you have hard steel upon hard steel and 'chance' damaging something.
Thanks man, the longest punch I have just 7 inch, hope it could manage this～
