Front wheel bearing race

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Yes, you understand it perfectly. There IS a 'stop' built into the hub and you can turn a (Clean) hub over and look to see when either race has seated against the shoulder. Here is a picture looking down into the hub from the 'inner' race side. You can see the 'cut outs' spaced 90° apart (four of them) that let you use a punch to remove the old race. But this also lets you visually check if the new one in fully seated.

Then by turning the hub over and looking in from the other direction you can see the opposite race and its position. You'll also 'feel' a new race bottom out and each time you strike whatever seating tool you are using (drift punch) it will rebound sharply and sound different.

I will use an old race to 'start' the new one squarely in the bore....but then I immediately go to a SOFT drift punch to avoid damaging any surfaces. You'll have to 'dress' the end of the punch once or twice since it will deform a bit driving in the harder race.

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Oh Dude, I just realized you paint the hub? So you painted the whole hub (I mean include the side around ) or only the surface which will touch the rim showed in your pictures?
 
Oh Dude, I just realized you paint the hub? So you painted the whole hub (I mean include the side around ) or only the surface which will touch the rim showed in your pictures?

Everything except the internal surfaces. But this is NOT necessary.

I just refuse to put dirty parts back on my vehicle and wanted some degree of rust prevention (which isn't really an issue) where I live, but just in case.

And aesthetically, I find it more pleasing.



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need help here. The outer bearing race came out ok with the drift + hammer method. The inner race is stuck badly. Not moving at all. Been tapping for hours intermittently. No luck. Dont have a welding machine. Any advice?
 

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