Front Rotor Removal (2 Viewers)

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CruiserPaul2000

CruiserPaul2000

Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Threads
5
Messages
18
Location
Buffalo, NY
REPLACING FRONT ROTORS & HAVING TROUBLE GETTING OLD ONES OFF. REMOVED DUST COVER & CLIP, REMOVED 6 BOLTS ON HUB, BUT NOTHING IS COMING OFF. HAVE 105,000 MILES & NEVER HAD ROTORS OFF.

COULD USE SOME ADVICE !!! WIFE WANTS HER TRUCK BACK.
MY 4RUNNER IS TOO SMALL FOR HER!!!:mad:

CONFUSED CRUISER!!!!:confused:

HELP
 
Remove and support the caliper if you haven't already. Then you will need a 54mm socket (or 2-1/8" works also) to remove the hub lock nuts (2) so that the entire hub can be removed...then you will have access to the bolts that retain the rotor to the hub flange. Then you'll need to support the rotor and with a soft (brass or shot filled heavy mallet) hammer pound the hub from the rotor.

This would be a good time to clean the bearings, bearing cavities (inner hub) and races and regrease. You might end up needing a gasket that sits underneath the outer flange.
 
I assume you got the 6 cone washers off after removing the 6 hub nuts? If not, thread the nuts on the bolts a little (so the washers don't go flying off), use a brass bar (like 3/4" diameter or larger; 3/8-1/2" will bend) and BFH or brass hammer and pound the bolt studs until the cone washers pop loose. After this (and removing the brake caliper, axle clip, and outer axle nuts/lock washer/inner axle nut), the entire hub/rotor unit should lift off in one piece. Lay the wheel upside down and you can put the rotor/hub in the wheel and use it as a work surface when removing the rotors/torquing the rotor bolts on. You may as well repack the inner bearings, as this should be done at 30K mi intervals anyways (plus the dealer will charge an arm and a leg to do it!). I found that using a stack of scrap hardwood flooring works great in pounding in the soft metal oil seal.
 
Great link jahmaka.

Good article on Brake fluids too

Stoptech article on Brake fluid

the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort.​

Makes me question my decision to go with DOT 4 fluid. :frown: I probably should have gone with a Toyota DOT3 for assured compatibility especially given the expense of a new master.

Bleeding ABS systems (also from Stoptech) I recommended for anyone trying to "flush" their brake fluid. The 100's system seems likely to have a seperate ABS reservoir given the FSMs instructions on brake bleeding and the use of the Toyota Hand-held tester.
 
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NMuzj100 said:
Great link jahmaka.

Good article on Brake fluids too

Stoptech article on Brake fluid

the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort.​

Makes me question my decision to go with DOT 4 fluid. :frown: I probably should have gone with a Toyota DOT3 for assured compatibility especially given the expense of a new master.

Bleeding ABS systems I also recommened for anyone trying to "flush" their brake fluid. The 100's system seems likely to have a seperate ABS reservoir given the FSMs instructions on brake bleeding and the use of the Toyota Hand-held tester.
Click to expand...


Great information about the ABS portion of our systems!!! Always wondered why the FSM bleed process was different from other vehicles I have owned!

Thanks!
 
hey guys!!

Thanks for the feedback & links! (esp the one for big rotor upgrade- pictures help a ton for me- thanks to Jahmaka) All have been very heplful in understanding how these rotors need to be removed! I'll be in the garage Sat am to put it to use! I'll give a full report on my progress!!

thanks,
Paul :grinpimp:

ps - have u guys turned rotors or typically replace ( 105K???)
-- never turned - hit metal this time cuz I did't jump on it when the sqeelers went off. dummy. -- grooved the rotors on inside.
I noticed they wore way faster on inside than outside. i'm assuming its because pads were hangin up on pins that were crapped up. inspected caliper - pistons not hangin up.

Also I just purchased stock 18in rims off 2005 LC. Would u guys reccomend 285-60-18 or 275-60-18 ? any suggestion 4 rubber?
90% road/ 10% off (until I take it over) Right now its the family truckster w/ snowy buffalo winters! Was thinking of Bridgestone Dueler Revo or Alenza?
I have Revos on my 4Runner & like them alot! Any feedback??

Thanks again!!! appreciate any comments!!!!

I was checkin out the pic galleries- some awesome rides . love all the mods u guys have done-- very impressive!!!!!!
 
CruiserPaul2000 said:
hey guys!!

Thanks for the feedback & links! (esp the one for big rotor upgrade- pictures help a ton for me- thanks to Jahmaka) All have been very heplful in understanding how these rotors need to be removed! I'll be in the garage Sat am to put it to use! I'll give a full report on my progress!!

thanks,
Paul :grinpimp:

ps - have u guys turned rotors or typically replace ( 105K???)
-- never turned - hit metal this time cuz I did't jump on it when the sqeelers went off. dummy. -- grooved the rotors on inside.
I noticed they wore way faster on inside than outside. i'm assuming its because pads were hangin up on pins that were crapped up. inspected caliper - pistons not hangin up.

Also I just purchased stock 18in rims off 2005 LC. Would u guys reccomend 285-60-18 or 275-60-18 ? any suggestion 4 rubber?
90% road/ 10% off (until I take it over) Right now its the family truckster w/ snowy buffalo winters! Was thinking of Bridgestone Dueler Revo or Alenza?
I have Revos on my 4Runner & like them alot! Any feedback??

Thanks again!!! appreciate any comments!!!!

I was checkin out the pic galleries- some awesome rides . love all the mods u guys have done-- very impressive!!!!!!
Click to expand...



I have personally had issues when turning rotors...now I just replace them. I installed ART rotors recently to increase the brake effectivness, modulation, etc. because of the increased weight of my rig. Too bad you aren't closer as I have the four rotors off my '99 you could have...which are still in fairly good shape.

Also since you are in NY you will probably need to replace the front brake pad guide pins...which on my NY '99 were completely rust frozen. FYI: You need to get these from Toyota.
 
i did purchase 4 new guide pins just for that reason! The guys at Toyota said to put never seize on the pins. I was gonna use white lithiam grease.
I may just replace rotors since they are scored- may have to take off too much , then they may get too hot. thanks for the offer on the rotors spessomon!

Paul
 
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I cud use an espresso bout now.

P
 
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CruiserPaul2000 said:
i did purchase 4 new guide pins just for that reason! The guys at Toyota said to put never seize on the pins. I was gonna use white lithiam grease.
I may just replace rotors since they are scored- may have to take off too much , then they may get too hot. thanks for the offer on the rotors espessmon!

Paul
Click to expand...


I used brake grease (it's high temp)...you can buy it in little single pacs at Kragen Auto out here in the West...to lube the anti-squeel plates as well as the pins.
 
CruiserPaul2000 said:
GREAT LINK!!!
Is this exerpt from a FSM? need to get a FSM- anyone know the best place to get one?

gotta love the detail!!!!!

thanks again jahmaka
Click to expand...


CDan or SINCITY100 for best deal AFAIK.
 
My thought on the front is to machine it then measure it. Just had a rear disc machined when I let the pads get metal to metal. Even after machining it was well over minimum spec and only cost $11 to get it machined.

Mininum spec for front disc thickness is 30mm (Standard 32mm). They took approximately 1mm off my machined rear disc so that would work out to around 3% of the total thickness of a front. Not too likely to result in performance problems or lead to warping.


My research trying to find the optimal brake fluid led me to this ATE SL.6

bfluid2006_mit-tabelle_en.null
 
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Thanks SNMuzj100!
Think I should flush the brake system? any tips? pump & refill????

Are you happy with Revos? Thinking of getting them with my upraded 18 in rims off a 2005 LC as i said in earlier post. Might look good w/ OWL out????
Going to 275/65/18.
 
CruiserPaul2000 said:
Thanks SNMuzj100!
Think I should flush the brake system? any tips? pump & refill????

Are you happy with Revos? Thinking of getting them with my upraded 18 in rims off a 2005 LC as i said in earlier post. Might look good w/ OWL out????
Going to 275/65/18.
Click to expand...


If you are not familiar with Speedbleeders..they are worth the $ for one person brake system bleed down.
 
HEY GUYS!

Succesfully removed front rotors & hubs thanks to everyone who gave me feedback!!! very much appreciated!!!!!

Now I need to clean up hub, repack bearings & re- assemble- need new gasket for flanges.

Anyone have torque specs for re-assembly?

thanks!
 
Wheel lug nuts: 76ft lb
Caliper mounting bolts (2): 90 ft lb
Disc to hub (5): 54 ft lb
Preload for bearing adjusting nut: 43 ft lb (initial); final: 38-57 in lb)
Outer lock nut: 47 ft lb
Cone washer lock nuts (6): 24 ft lb
 
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