Front plate screws staked - Need advice!

[CUSailor]

Chasing the front end leak I figured I would go all out and replace all the gaskets instead of just the timing cover and crank seal. I got to the front plate screws and they look like a mess. How do I approach this? Do I use a Dremel to remove the area it looks like it was staked previously? Do I cut a new slot entirely? I'm at a point I feel like if I screw up (no pun intended) it's going to get ready bad to fix. Should I button her up best I can and take to a professional?

 

[1969FJ]

Perhaps an impact driver ?

 

[Tank5]

I have never done it before but maybe drill the stake with a drill bit just big enough to remove the deformation. Don't go deeper than you have to.

 

[CUSailor]

I have an electric impact driver but it kept slipping from where it had previously been slightly stripped. I stopped out of fear of stripping it more. Will drilling the stake out cause leaking?

 

[1969FJ]

Looks like your electric one is messing up the slot in the screw. You will have more control with a manual one. You may get away with overcoming the stake by manually impacting .

 

[CUSailor]

Looks like your electric one is messing up the slot in the screw. You will have more control with a manual one. You may get away with overcoming the stake by manually impacting .

Thanks for the tip. Going to go out and pick one up

 

[spotcruiser]

Just grind the stake a bit and it'll come out.

 

[hooter]

your flathead looks a bit too small.

i took an old chisel and ground the tip flat so it would exactly fit in the groove. get the slot filled out so it doesn't slip. they will budge

 

[Steamer]

Mine were horribly tight. I got the 1/2" drive flat blades from Grainger.
While holding the breaker bar and cheater in place, I used a 2 x 4 and a 4/4 block and levered from behind the bumper where I could lean in on it with my chest creating enormous force holding it in. It took a while to set it all up for max leverage but it was worth it. While forcing it inward I levered down on the cheater and it broke loose with a crack so loud I thought I snapped it off but it had just broken loose.

 

[73FJ40]

If you look at the threaded holes elsewhere in the plate, you'll see it's fairly thick. I think the Dremel would be fine.

I believe I used a chisel, with the point ground down to be the width of the screw slot. I then slid the chisel in the slot towards the stake, and hammered the chisel to 'unstake' the screw. The metal is regular steel, fairly soft as evidenced by the stake.

 

[spotcruiser]

Replace them with the Torx version.

 

[Pin_Head]

You are not using the proper size screwdriver because you can see that it only partially fills the slot. Use the screwdriver and a hammer to push the staked part back and then use the correct size screwdriver.

 

[1Rower]

Chasing the front end leak I figured I would go all out and replace all the gaskets instead of just the timing cover and crank seal. I got to the front plate screws and they look like a mess. How do I approach this? Do I use a Dremel to remove the area it looks like it was staked previously? Do I cut a new slot entirely? I'm at a point I feel like if I screw up (no pun intended) it's going to get ready bad to fix. Should I button her up best I can and take to a professional?

View attachment 1955526

View attachment 1955527

a little clover on the tip would help keep it from slipping.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Translating for muggles: clover = clover brand valve grinding paste.

Like everyone sez, get the right driver bit, use a dremel disc to open up the stake, remove with handheld hammer operated impact screwdriver, throw flatheads in trash, replace w/ updated torx screws, get the timing plate gasket w/ silicon bead from Toy dealer.

 

[4x4veteran]

The kind of impact driver you need is the one that you hold in place with one hand and tap with a hammer.
That way you are exerting pressure on the slot as the screw is being turned.

 

[CUSailor]

This is all great information. I had already bought the torx screws knowing that I would need to replace them. I actually have 3 extra (bought used from SOR thinking Toyota dealer wouldn't come through, lo and behold they did). My landlord came out and had a fit, threatened to have it towed if it wasn't back together by Friday. I was trying to do this undercover on my day off but I had to button it all back up and I guess he'll just have to deal with some oil stains in his garage now. I did get a new gasket put on the timing cover and sealed up the bottom A bolts though so who knows maybe that'll solve everything. I think next time I go to tackle this I'll be sure to have some sort of heat on hand, a good chisel, manual impact hammer and a bit more patience. On a side note.....anyone know if a lifter will fit out through the oil drain hole...asking for a friend....

If anyone wants those 3 extra used torx screws let me know and I'll drop them in the mail.

 

[hooter]

On a side note.....anyone know if a lifter will fit out through the oil drain hole...

Uhmmmm. No I don’t knowz. but I do know it will fit out of a dropped oil pan.

Please tell us the story of a lifter needing to come out of a oil drain hole.

hOOter

 

[CUSailor]

So the furthest back lifter came all the way out except for the last mm as I could figure (I could see both oil holes). I couldn't get it to budge for the life of me and figured that hey, it's far enough out that it should clear the camshaft. Which it did, no snag whatsoever. The snag came later when I accidentally hit it reaching back to clean away some of the old gasket from the side plate and heard a clunk and realized it decided right then and there it wanted to go back inside the engine.

In my defense, it was a long day and I was an idiot.

Guess I'll be replacing a oil pan gasket overnight as well that the landlord won't know about....at least that should be fairly clean. May try to save it, it's attached only in the 4 corners with FIPG and was replaced a couple months ago. will have another on hand just in case I suppose.

 

[hooter]

bummer

my guess is the camshaft was out at this point?

yes drop the pan

 

[CUSailor]

dropped the pan, lucky the cork gasket is still in very good shape (installed it about 6 months ago) put it back and we'll see if it holds the oil like it did before. Thanks for everyone's help!