front output flange - interference issues (1 Viewer)

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Jun 12, 2004
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in building up my fj40, i have installed a 350 v8 with a th350 auto transmission. i used the downey 'short' adapter to connect the transfer case to the transmission. in doing so, the front output of the transfer case interferes with the transmission oil pan.

i got the smaller output flange, and with some persuasion (denting) of the oil pan, got it to fit (barely). however, with my 4" SUA lift, the smaller flange does not have enough 'angle' to work (i dont know how to describe other than the joint binds up before the driveshaft can drop far enough down to reach the axle).

my stock toyota flange has more than enough angle to work, but is way too big to fit (even with major changes to the oil pan, it would still hit the transmission case).

is there a specific part (spicer or otherwise) that i can get that is both a) small enough to clear and b) has enough working angle to work properly. what are my other options (two-piece driveshaft, etc)?

what have other people with the 'short' adapter and a lift done to solve this problem?
 
I used the kit from AA and this is the angle I got, and it should level out a little when I put the weight of the body on it..
P1010008 - MUD.jpg
 
i think the AA kit is about 5" long or so. the kit i used was only 1" long, so my output flange is forward about 4 more inches, putting it right in the pan.

but regarding just the angle, moving the transfer case back (with the longer adapter) should have lessened the angle, but i am not sure how much. i guess it was enough though if it is working for you =)
 
mattcrandle said:
i think the AA kit is about 5" long or so. the kit i used was only 1" long, so my output flange is forward about 4 more inches, putting it right in the pan.

but regarding just the angle, moving the transfer case back (with the longer adapter) should have lessened the angle, but i am not sure how much. i guess it was enough though if it is working for you =)

The AA kit I meant was the smaller output flange and smaller diamater ujoint kit that AA makes. But your right I do have the long adapter from AA also. It must have still had clearance issues before though, since teh stock pan was bent to hell.
 
The AA kit will not work. Downey makes and sells their own front output for $200. Since the AA adaptor is so thick it puts the flange behind the transmission.

I have the same set up as you, and just resolved this issue myself. Ended up just cutting the pan enough for the stock flange to work, then slowly re-welded it. You will need to find a low profile bolt for the corner of the tranny pan where the front output is.

If I had the cash, I would buy the Downey adaptor. It took a lot of work to get it to fit just right. If you want a photo of what I did let me know.

Good luck Albee
 
a photo would be great, actually. i have the downey kit (both the short adapter AND the smaller flange), but it still doesnt work quite right. i have the clearence i need now, but the small flange doesnt have enough working angle.

i thought of modifying the pan like you did, but i am afraid that the stock flange is still too big and it will hit the actual transmission case as well. post up your picture and it will help me see how it all fits.

thanks!
 
here is my current setup - with the smaller flange and yoke, and some pan modification, it fits now. however, the smaller flange/yoke has a limited working angle and it binds up at an angle that is not enough for me to even connect the driveline to the front axle.

is there such a flange that is small enough to fit AND has enough working angle to work for me?

flange1.jpg


flange2.jpg


flange3.jpg
 
my64fj40 said:
That looks like the same flange I got..

I don't think there is a smaller one, and I don't think a different flange would fix the problem.


Did you install longer shackles??
Or have you changed the mounts on your engine??


i agree it is the same flange.

i changed the mounts on the engine in the sense that i put in a v8 to replace the F engine, but it sits at about the same height as before.

i do have longer shackles, and combined with the lift, it is just too much i guess. the frustrating thing is that my rear driveshaft is pretty short, so the angle is even greater, and the stock flange works just fine back there.

the only reason i was hoping for a different flange was for more angle (not to make it even smaller, as it fits as-is).

so what i was hoping for was a flange/yoke that was the size of the one i had, but with the working angle of the stock toyota setup. does it exist? if not, what alternatives do i have?
 
mattcrandle said:
i agree it is the same flange.

i changed the mounts on the engine in the sense that i put in a v8 to replace the F engine, but it sits at about the same height as before.

i do have longer shackles, and combined with the lift, it is just too much i guess. the frustrating thing is that my rear driveshaft is pretty short, so the angle is even greater, and the stock flange works just fine back there.

the only reason i was hoping for a different flange was for more angle (not to make it even smaller, as it fits as-is).

so what i was hoping for was a flange/yoke that was the size of the one i had, but with the working angle of the stock toyota setup. does it exist? if not, what alternatives do i have?

Did you install shims when you put the longer shackles on??
 
You ever lpan on replacing that pan gasket or the tranny filter?

I would send the AA adapter back and get the longer downey one (or whichever adapter actually works.

You are setting yourself up for headaches for the rest of the time you own that rig..
 
Mace said:
You ever lpan on replacing that pan gasket or the tranny filter?

I would send the AA adapter back and get the longer downey one (or whichever adapter actually works.

You are setting yourself up for headaches for the rest of the time you own that rig..

That is the downey adaptor. Even with it you need to cut the flange off the pan and dent it a little. That is why I just cut the pan. To take the pan off mine you need to remove drive shaft first. Then it comes off w/o removing the output flange.
tran.jpg
 
Mace said:
You ever lpan on replacing that pan gasket or the tranny filter?

I would send the AA adapter back and get the longer downey one (or whichever adapter actually works.

You are setting yourself up for headaches for the rest of the time you own that rig..

i can remove the transmission pan when the driveshaft is removed (no need to remove the output flange) - it is a little more work, but not too bad.

albee said:
That is the downey adaptor. Even with it you need to cut the flange off the pan and dent it a little. That is why I just cut the pan. To take the pan off mine you need to remove drive shaft first. Then it comes off w/o removing the output flange.


i already cut the lip off the pan and dented it in a bit. i have enough clearence now, so that half of the problem is solved. however, my bigger problem is that the smaller flange/yoke does not have enough angle to reach the front axle before it binds up.

my64fj40 said:
Did you install shims when you put the longer shackles on??

yes, i installed shims when i put on the longer shackles. it doesnt seem that the front pinion is at the wrong angle, just too far vertically away, if that makes any sense.
 
downey has two smaller u-joint options .one for SOA extreme angle flange /joint

i saw that one in their catalog, but i need a lesson in u-joint angles i guess. just because the slip yoke has a greater angle, the flat yoke is still limiting the angle. i guess i dont know how 31 degrees + 20 degrees = 26 degrees. i would think it would still be 20 degrees. anybody care to school me on this?
 
I have the same Downey adapter and same problem. The po installed a smaller flange and modified the pan. My rig did not come with a driveshaft so I am still working on a yoke and shaft. With this setup I am a little concerned that as this joint is now the weak link in the shaft what happens to the trans case if the joint goes bang.
 
I have the same Downey adapter and same problem. The po installed a smaller flange and modified the pan. My rig did not come with a driveshaft so I am still working on a yoke and shaft. With this setup I am a little concerned that as this joint is now the weak link in the shaft what happens to the trans case if the joint goes bang.




I would be far more concerned about the front output shaft of the stock Land Cruiser transfer case...


The only way you will get that to fail is if you bind up the driveline on a full droop...and even then, you will likely twist off the front output shaft in the tcase before you damage that joint.....



:beer:
 
Good to know about the output shaft. Can anybody recomend a good source for a driveshaft with the smaller Nissan yoke setup, other than taking my chances with a local driveline shop?
 

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