Front knuckle rebuild

[7StringerFJ60]

So this may end up being a rather slow process and i wasnt initially intending this thread to document my project, but this is great and you all are awesome, so why not?

Ok, so here is the mess im starting with..
PASSENGER SIDE


DRIVER SIDE

 

[tat2matt]

Turn the truck over it will be WAY easier.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Awesome, Ill definitely be contacting you soon either through the vendor site or by email. A couple things:
1) Upon removal of the axle, how would i know if i need to separate the birf from the rest of the axle? Id rather not if i do not have to...but then again it may be the best time to clean and repack the joint with grease? Any thoughts there?
2) Does your standard kit come with the inner axle seals? I'm totally spewing out grease diluted with axle oil from the wipers and know i need to replace those. (I'll throw up some pics here in a sec.)

1. Most go into it knowing they need to, i.e. they have 'clicky' birfs or perhaps they are swapping to chromoly shafts on their stock inner axles. Another possiblity is those doing a disc brake swap in which they put the fine-spline birf on their old inner axles. Beyond that, it isn't required to separate them to perform a clean rebuild, it's never a bad idea but it isn't required. You can do a good job cleaning and packning them without putting the inner axle.

2. You bet. All of our kits feature a Japanese made stock inner axle seal. We do offer the Marlin Crawler HD inner axle seals for those interested along with the Longfield Lifetime Wipers, backing plate eliminators, and TG HD Rock Rings as well. You can see why building a one-size fits-all kit isn't as easy as one would hope... too many options

 

[7StringerFJ60]

ha! yeah, i have no clue why theyre upside down, the pics are rightside up everywhere else

 

[7StringerFJ60]

1. Most go into it knowing they need to, i.e. they have 'clicky' birfs or perhaps they are swapping to chromoly shafts on their stock inner axles. Another possiblity is those doing a disc brake swap in which they put the fine-spline birf on their old inner axles. Beyond that, it isn't required to separate them to perform a clean rebuild, it's never a bad idea but it isn't required. You can do a good job cleaning and packning them without putting the inner axle.

2. You bet. All of our kits feature a Japanese made stock inner axle seal. We do offer the Marlin Crawler HD inner axle seals for those interested along with the Longfield Lifetime Wipers, backing plate eliminators, and TG HD Rock Rings as well. You can see why building a one-size fits-all kit isn't as easy as one would hope... too many options

1. Ah great to know. Will i still need a new C-Clip if im not messing around with the birf?

2. Great to know because the only thing im really certain on at this point is that i will absolutely need those inner seals due to the oil-diluted grease seeping out of the knuckles.

 

[Spike Strip]

You only need the C clips if you separate the birf from the axle. Clip is destroyed in the process. You don't need to separate them to clean and lube the birf joint. Just pack it well using the palm of your hand to force grease in there.

 

[7StringerFJ60]

You only need the C clips if you separate the birf from the axle. Clip is destroyed in the process. You don't need to separate them to clean and lube the birf joint. Just pack it well using the palm of your hand to force grease in there.

Wonderful; (probably a dumb question), but if the grease has been diluted with gear oil should I take it all apart and thoroughly clean it and pack it with fresh grease?..or does this even matter?

 

[Spike Strip]

Of course.

You're gonna have to take it all apart anyway to replace the inner seal (again, get the Marlin HD ones), and the point is to clean everything thoroughly, replace the MOLY grease, and I would do the gear oil, too, if it hasn't been done in a while. Or at least top it off when you're done.

Oh, btw - VERY IMPORTANT! ... When you take stuff apart make sure you carefully remove and keep TOGETHER the shims that are on the top and bottom of the knuckle (trunnion bearing caps). Put each set into a separate bag and label them FLT, FLB, (front left top, bottom, etc) and put them back in EXACTLY as you found them. If the knuckles have never been apart before, this will get them back just like new.

There are some vids on youtube - it would behoove you to watch a couple of those first so you know what to expect. It's not hard, just a little confusing the first time out. Wheel bearing races come out easy enough with a good brass drift. You did buy one, didn't you?

Good luck. Bon Chance. Buena suerte

 

[FJ60Seth]

I suggest you separate the axle from the birf. It's much easier to clean and inspect disassembled and you'll know how the reassemble it.

 

[Pighead]

I am looking at buying a complete kit from MAF

Well, that's just wrong. Am relieved to see that others are steering you in the right direction. MAF/SOR should only be your last resort after exhausting the usual suspects already mentioned (Gorge and Kurt, just to mention them again). In an effort to add something new, you'll need more paper towels & rags then already mentioned.
It may be easier to thoroughly clean a birf when disassembled, but that is offset by the PIA in removing and reinstalling on the inner shaft. You can do an adequate job without removing from the inner shaft, IMHO. Do what you feel is best.

 

[mig79]

Well, that's just wrong. Am relieved to see that others are steering you in the right direction. MAF/SOR should only be your last resort after exhausting the usual suspects already mentioned (Gorge and Kurt, just to mention them again).

Great info for a newb like me. This thread has been great as I will be doingothe same thing in the near future.

 

[7StringerFJ60]

Well, that's just wrong. Am relieved to see that others are steering you in the right direction. MAF/SOR should only be your last resort after exhausting the usual suspects already mentioned (Gorge and Kurt, just to mention them again). In an effort to add something new, you'll need more paper towels & rags then already mentioned.
It may be easier to thoroughly clean a birf when disassembled, but that is offset by the PIA in removing and reinstalling on the inner shaft. You can do an adequate job without removing from the inner shaft, IMHO. Do what you feel is best.

Yeah im glad ive been steered in the right direction too. Ive been talking with Kurt about this and he has been completely awesome. His prices are way way better than MAF too. Ive had a couple early 80's toyota 4x4 trucks in the past, but I have only been an FJ owner for a couple of months now.. I guess MAF was the only thing i was familiar with. Ill be ordering parts from Kurt here very soon

Since the clips are relatively cheap i may buy them and have them around just in case when i pull the axle shaft out and i see something suspect i will be that much more prepared to take care of it.

Great info for a newb like me. This thread has been great as I will be doingothe same thing in the near future.

Cool, I'll try to keep this thread updated as i tackle this project. Even if i look like a r-tard at times (definitely will), there will be plenty of guys here with tons of experience to correct me and its my hopes that this thread can be an extremely valuable resource for everyone. Good luck!

 

[mig79]

Well at this point there are three new LC owners in my group of friends, totalling 7 land cruisers. So we will be doing this at least three times.

 

[mongoose2231]

i will be doing this too. i just started on mine yesterday. i have the locking hubs off, i dismantled them to clean and re-grease but i didn't have the 2-1/8" or 54mm socket for the axle nut. so i just bought that and i'll be getting to it again tomorrow. i also removed and will be replacing the steering stabilizer and all the tie rods. then the front end will be perfect.

 

[Pighead]

Stop calling it an FJ.

but I have only been an FJ owner for a couple of months now..

 

[7StringerFJ60]

There are some vids on youtube - it would behoove you to watch a couple of those first so you know what to expect. It's not hard, just a little confusing the first time out. Wheel bearing races come out easy enough with a good brass drift. You did buy one, didn't you?

Good luck. Bon Chance. Buena suerte

..I have not purchased a brass punch, but its on my list

 

[7StringerFJ60]

i will be doing this too. i just started on mine yesterday. i have the locking hubs off, i dismantled them to clean and re-grease but i didn't have the 2-1/8" or 54mm socket for the axle nut. so i just bought that and i'll be getting to it again tomorrow. i also removed and will be replacing the steering stabilizer and all the tie rods. then the front end will be perfect.

Yeah, i too have to acquire a few tools before i can tackle this project. Thanks for bringing up the tie rods, etc. I really havent put much thought into them in this endeavor.

Stop calling it an FJ.

..umm.. fj60...60..LC... Better? ..wasnt aware of that particular mortal sin.

 

[BluewaltFJ60]

Ditto on keeping the shims in order and labeled. It has been a couple of years since I did mine, the FSM says something about two different types of grease, one type in the knuckle and one in the bearing (I think, my memory isa no good), Marlin inner seals, and a fancy fish scale for testing the bearing load.

 

[TobyB]

Turn the truck over it will be WAY easier.

Oh, I dunno. It's the ground in the sky that was giving me trouble...

hee

t

<hic>

 

[SPANNERSPINNER]

When buying your breass drift (i used an old brass bolt) make sure it is long. You need to be able to insert it through the top of the birfield housing to drive out the bearing race on the bottom (and vice-versa for the top).

--Allen (mobile)