- Thread starter
- #41
I totally overlooked the length factor of the drift
Thanks so much for the heads up on that!
Front knuckle rebuild
- Thread starter 7StringerFJ60
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I totally overlooked the length factor of the drift
Thanks so much for the heads up on that!
Brake fluid
Apologies in advance for the wall of text.
.
1. I don't know why Toyota did the front brakes the way they did, but just take the brake line apart at connection above the axle, and then fully remove the caliper and shield. It's going to suck, brake fluid is going to run everywhere, and there ain't crap you can do about it except maybe attach one of those cheap brake-line bleeder kits to it to collect the fluid. I tried various plugs to no avail (couldn't find an actual plug). I may try and bypass the stupid shield fitting and just install a stainless flex line on reassembly on my next go-round. Not sure how to make this better.
Just to let you know that there is something you can do from that brake fluid dripping when you disconnect the brake line and caliper,it is a simple and proven trick i learned from an old school mechanic.this would work regardless if you have disconnected front or rear brake lines,what you need to do is just push the brake pedal 1.5 inches to 2 inches from it's resting position and find a rod that you can hold it in place and thats it you can leave it like that till your done and make sure to bleed your brakes after you reinstall everything.i hope this helps.
bagochips76
SILVER Star
I'm in Bozeman and in the middle of the knuckle rebuild on my 60. If your interested in taking a look at one disassembled or need some help, I'm happy to lend a hand.
I literally just finished a knuckle rebuild I started today, wish I could have taken some pics for you. But If you need some help just ask, I have the fsm too. Once you rebuild a couple times its easy after
2. You bet. All of our kits feature a Japanese made stock inner axle seal. We do offer the Marlin Crawler HD inner axle seals for those interested along with the Longfield Lifetime Wipers, backing plate eliminators, and TG HD Rock Rings as well. You can see why building a one-size fits-all kit isn't as easy as one would hope... too many options
I REALLY wish I had known that before I ordered my knuckle kit from you guys. I ended up getting the Marlin oil seals and the Longfield wiper seals separately. One-stop shopping would've been handy
7stringer, believe it or not, Home Depot sells some good brass punches on their website for a decent price. I just ordered a 3/8" and a 1/2" that were $9 and $14 respectively.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Link? I have looked on both HD and Lowes and was never able to find brass drifts for sale, best I have done is a "set" from NAPA for $70.
- Thread starter
- #47
thanks Spook50, and yeah, can you provide a link? That would be helpful bc i cannot find them either.
...hope to get started on this project soon HA! I lost my clutch on my DD and had other setbacks that making the front knuckle rebuild take longer than I wanted Soon enough though!
...hope to get started on this project soon HA! I lost my clutch on my DD and had other setbacks that making the front knuckle rebuild take longer than I wanted
Soon enough though!
- Thread starter
- #49
Wonderful! Thank you
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Will 7" be long enough to get the races out?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID !!
LOL... was so waiting for that...
Should be plenty. the ones I used at the base auto shop years ago were way short and still did okay.
I bought this set 'cuz all the various sizes come in handy (and it's USA-made):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-Drift...050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565ba947b2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-Drift...050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565ba947b2
You don't have to do this because you can just take some wire and hang the caliper from the frame. I did not detach a brake line during my knuckle rebuild until I decided to go with the 4runner calipers.
I am also a noob, but I made a list of the tools, materials, and online resources I used for my soup to nuts rebuild. You can see it here if you are interested:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7748121&postcount=52
Hope that helps.
Kurt was a big help to me too, by the way. BTW NAPA has sales all the time, I got two drifts there for like $30 if memory serves.
Go on ebay and search "brass rod"... I bought a 3/8" and 1/2" diameter rods 12" in length for like 15 shipped.
Or just go down to a steel supply store and grab a 3 foot long 1/2" rod for $16 and have custom drifts for life.
Of course.
You're gonna have to take it all apart anyway to replace the inner seal (again, get the Marlin HD ones), and the point is to clean everything thoroughly, replace the MOLY grease, and I would do the gear oil, too, if it hasn't been done in a while. Or at least top it off when you're done.
Oh, btw - VERY IMPORTANT! ... When you take stuff apart make sure you carefully remove and keep TOGETHER the shims that are on the top and bottom of the knuckle (trunnion bearing caps). Put each set into a separate bag and label them FLT, FLB, (front left top, bottom, etc) and put them back in EXACTLY as you found them. If the knuckles have never been apart before, this will get them back just like new.
There are some vids on youtube - it would behoove you to watch a couple of those first so you know what to expect. It's not hard, just a little confusing the first time out. Wheel bearing races come out easy enough with a good brass drift. You did buy one, didn't you?
Good luck. Bon Chance. Buena suerte
Hello Spike, unfortunately I took mine apart (1985 FJ60) without marking the shims and their locations. I know there is a total of three shims and I believe two were in the bottom and one on the top. Now I have new shims available with the kit but I am not sure how to proceed. I have replaced the races and packed new bearings. Could you please give me some advice. I would greatly appreciate it.
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Just did mine this weekend, my advice ...Be gentle. A 10" drift works well . Brass/ bronze is good but mild steel is soft enough not to be an issue . This is what I use for most bearing installs if I do not have the proper hyd. setup or bearing drivers. I buy my axle kits from Marlin Crawler. Everything is there. If you have messed up your shims... you need to set up the brg preload and knuckle to axle housing alignment. see Toyota service tools $$$$$ . I have one and it is fairly simple to use. See FSM. misaligned knuckles lead to leaky axle seals and worn birf shaft seal surfaces. I would check in your area with members of the forum to see if there is an knuckle alignment tool to borrow or rent.
