Front driveshaft help (1 Viewer)

[Norcalfj]

Am having a little bit of trouble and was hoping someone could help me out. First I thought that all of the 60s flanges on the axles and xfer case are the same. I got a front dc drive shaft from an 84 and the flanges on the shaft are smaller than what is on my axle and xfer case. Is this normal? Or is it the wrong shaft? Thank you

 

[bdynamic]

Ha, I just did the same thing. I thing georg at valley hybrids said to get the tc output for the 84 to mount to. I am taking both mine to a driveshaft shop tomorrow. I need a little more travel due to my 4" sr that I just installed. I think you could have the flanges on the tc side swapped with the correct size and use the original axle input by swapping on the two shafts if you still have the original.

 

[KWalkerM]

There are 2 bolt patterns for flanges. I had this issue when I got a limited slip install on a different third, called georg up and he said to drill out the new bolt pattern on the flange, that allows you to run both flange patterns in a pinch. I beat my truck to hell offroad and havent had an issue with it at all

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Two patterns, pre 85 and post 85. DC driveshafts from 60s all have the small pattern.

 

[bdynamic]

Did you take it to a machine shop and have it drilled?

 

[The Machinist]

Did you take it to a machine shop and have it drilled?

Knowing him, I'd say no.

Just lay the new one over the old one and trace the new hole locations, then just tap a center punch in the center of each new hole location and start drilling! Adding a little oil will help extend the life of your cutter. (btw, remember that drills only cut on the tip, those flutes are for clearing the chips away, not for milling a slot! ...always bothers me when I see people forcing the side of a drill into a part... )


If I had to do this I'd probably end up clamping it to some old junk wood, (or maybe even the trashcan...), in the backyard and proceed to haphazardly destroy my drill bits with a handheld electric drill, ...Taking it to work with me would be too convenient...

...I don't have a drill-press... If you do, this project will be a breeze.

 

[Dynosoar]

The u-joint is the same. So you could also swap the old driveshaft flange for the new one. Remember the diffs have crush sleeves and you can't just pull the diff flange off and then torque it back on. If you do the preload on the bearing will be all messed up. And its a botch to drill them whole they are on the truck.

Dyno

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The u-joint is the same. So you could also swap the old driveshaft flange for the new one. Remember the diffs have crush sleeves and you can't just pull the diff flange off and then torque it back on. If you do the preload on the bearing will be all messed up. And its a botch to drill them whole they are on the truck.

Dyno

The problem with that is that the DC end does not share the u-joint, so if you're installing it on a late style transfer case, you'll still have to drill out the transfer case end.

I did do this for my DC shaft though so I only had to drill the transfer case flange, not the diff.

 

[Dynosoar]

True, but there is no crush sleeve on the tcase side so you could just pull the flange off the case a to make it easy to redrill,

Dyno

 

[KWalkerM]

Did you take it to a machine shop and have it drilled?

nope. Machinist was correct haha


I drilled it with the third member in place and the short flange on clamped in place where I wanted the holes. it was a pretty easy deal with a cordless drill it just took a while since I only had one drill bit and didn't slowly go up in size. aint nobody got time for that!

 

[driveshafterw]

dline

pm me wi9th the mesurements bolt hole patern vertical horizontal and like you would mesure a tv and uloint sise and ill send you the flanges for the cost of shipping i run a driveline shop and ive got parts to spare