front crank seal replace

[clownmidget]

Scott,
PM me with an email and I can send you the pdf specs of George's puller. It makes life a lot easier believe me.
Mike R.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Man am I glad I live over 2000 miles from you, brudda. You're gonna be busting some knuckles and I know I'd have to be looking over your shoulder - heh. Talk to Jeff - I think he bought some monster tool for the motor coach that generates the kind of torque he needs to work on its diesel drivetrain. I think the lugnuts are over 300 ft-lbs and the tire/wheel weighs around 350lbs as an example. Won't be changing those on the side of the road, eh?

DougM

 

[scottm]

You're gonna be busting some knuckles and I know I'd have to be looking over your shoulder - heh.DougM

That's the beauty of big wrenches, I can put a four-foot cheater on the inch-drive breaker, minimal effort. I've busted too many knuckles trying to do too much with small wrenches. I wonder if I can use a torque wrench with Jeff's multiplier? I've seen them do that on airplanes. I have some time off coming, thought I'd do another couple axles, oh well.

 

[landtoy80]

If you do leave the radiator on, put some thick cardboard or something on it so when the pulley pops off you don't put a hole in it. I have a dent in mine, I got lucky it didn't leak

Good luck finding a torque wrench that goes to 304 ft/lbs.

 

[scottm]

Yeah, those radiator fins can put holes in knuckles pretty quick too!

I watched them change a wheel on a 767, they had a long bar with a square drive sticking out the side at one end, and a square hole through the other end. Put the torque wrench in the square hole, do some math, you have a very big torque wrench. I think the math goes one foot extra, double the torque, two feet triples, four feet quadruples, sound right? I could make one at work fairly easily, just have to buy a bar of 0-6, have the square holes cut in it, weld in a square drive piece, get the whole thing hardened, could get a bit pricey. I'll look into it.

 

[Gumby]

I have one of those bars. It's how I torqued mine. Mine is 1' long and doubles the torque, although I would guess it depends on the length of the first torque wrench as well.

 

[Rookie2]

I think the math goes one foot extra, double the torque, two feet triples, four feet quadruples, sound right?

Yes..., if the original length is one foot.

Torque is simply a measure of the force applied, times the moment arm (distance from the centerline of the socket to point where the perpendicular force is applied). So if the distance from the centerline of the socket to the center of your hand is 1 foot and you are applying 20 pounds of force (perpendicular to the wrench arm), that's a torque of 20 ft-lbs (20 lbs x 1ft). If the distance is 2ft (20 lbs x 2ft) the torque is 40 ft-lbs and so on.

You can also use this to crudly check the calibration on your torque wrench. Place your torque wrench on one of your wheel lugs, with the wrench arm running parallel to the ground. Tie a weight off to the handle, and the torque should read the weight used x the distance from the tie off point to the centerline of the socket.


Rookie2

 

[scottm]

Yes..., if the original length is one foot.

It shouldn't matter, 20ft-lb is 20ft-lb. A 4-foot wrench with 5-lb is the same as 1-ft with 20-lb. The torque at the drive is calibrated to equate to pounds at one foot, so adding a foot doubles it.

 

[Scamper]

That whole length argument would be true if you were using a breaker bar or a beam-stlye wrench, but with a torque wrench that clicks once it reaches the specified torque, the length of the wrench will only affect how much effort you have to apply to reach the torque. The mechanism inside the wrench knows from squat what length the wrench is, and simply clicks when it senses the amount of force you dialed in.

 

[Gumby]

Yes, but wouldn't that put that much more force on the fastener at the end of the doubler bar? The clicker type doesn't know it's length is doubled. The force on the head at the halfway point should be half of it's actual torque at the end of the bar...


I think

 

[Rookie2]

It shouldn't matter, 20ft-lb is 20ft-lb. A 4-foot wrench with 5-lb is the same as 1-ft with 20-lb. The torque at the drive is calibrated to equate to pounds at one foot, so adding a foot doubles it.

The original statement was.."add a foot doubles the torque..." . That's only true if your starting point was 1 foot from the socket. If your starting point was 6" and you add a foot and applied the same force, you would triple the torque. If the starting point is 2 ft and you add a foot, (with the same applied force) the torque would be 1.5 times the original torque. So again, the only time the original statement holds true (add one foot double, another triple...) is if the starting moment arm was one foot away. Torque = force x distance.

Your right about the clicking wrench. It doesn't know how much force or at what distance it is applied. It just clicks when the specified torque is reached. But depending on how far down the handle your hand is will determine how much force you have to apply to reach the specified torque. You can make it easy, or you can make it hard, just depends on where you want to stick you hand


Rookie2

 

[Scamper]

Gumby:

If what you've been describing is a setup where the head of the 1-foot long torque wrench is positioned in the middle of the 2-foot long thingy, then that would indeed be different (and I wouldn't know how to calculate the forces there since the "bending" at the midpoint changes the torque at the end I think).

I thought you were just putting a longer arm on the torque wrench, in which case the length only makes it easier on the user, but doesn't affect the torque range of the wrench.

 

[scottm]

I've never seen a foot-long torque wrench, maybe the inch-pound wrench at the shop is close.

The torque reading we're talking about is force in a circular direction around the drive point, it happens to be in "foot-pounds", and it doesn't matter how long the handle is. It's equivalent to pounds force on a moment arm at exactly one foot from the pivot. If we move the pivot point one more foot down the moment arm from that original pivot point, we're now talking the same pounds at equivalent to two feet. That doubles the torque.

That still doesn't solve my problem of not having such a tool, luckily I've epoxied the garage floor, so the dripping is tolerable for now.

 

[landtoy80]

I have seen torque wrenches that go to 250ft/lbs.
If you put some strong locktite on and go past the 250 mark you should be ok.
Someone posted putting locktite on the bolt, Christo maybe???

I bet there are not many Toy. service departments that have the 300+ torque wrench, I could be wrong. Call your Toyota service department and ask them if they can torque your bolt to 304 ft/bls and see what they say.

I cut a notch in the bottom my fan shroud so I could turn the motor with a socket wrench.
If you cut the shroud or leave it off, you could get the bolt tight enough to drive it to a semi repair shop and have them check and torque it for you.
Or I could steal the big torque wrench from work and stop and check your torque for you (for a small fee )

 

[scottm]

AAAAAAAAH, you should be holding a chainsaw!

If I tighten it with a big wrench then take it to Tulip City Repair for torqueing, will I have to grab the fan off to get access there?

 

[landtoy80]

will I have to grab the fan off to get access there?

Don't know. I can get my socket wrench on the bolt fron under and turn it, I didn't try it with the BIG Torque Wrench.
If it did fit from down under, you may have to put it on a hoist.
If you have a 3/4 socket set ( got mine from the old Country General now its TSC) for about $40. Try it, if not its not tooooo hard to remove the fan