front brake rotor replacement abort mission help! (1 Viewer)

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ogsuv

ogsuv

Joined
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Location
Madison,WI
Ok, So I decided to take on the rotor replacement project (they are obviously warped). I had about 2 hours in the afternoon and figured it would be a piece of cake (according to most of the posts here) well after an hour and a half I decided to abort and try again another day.....

here are my questions....any help would be appreciated..99 LC 120k

1)What clips, seals, etc.... should I order and replace as I am doing this?

2)Do I unbolt the whole caliper? or just the bolts to take the front half off, since it is a 2 piece design?

3)I never did get the hub off, I loosened all the front bolts, and attempted to whack it with a brass drift so cone washers pop out and release cover? is this not right? is there a sweet spot to whack it?

I did a birf repack on my 95 LC over a year ago, but kind of forgot some of the tricks, although I do have all the tools suggested to do it. Most of the posts I read said it was a piece of cake, only one seemed to be more realistic, saying 6 hours the first time and 3.5 the second. Keep in mind I will be repeating step #6 often.

thank you,

Scott:beer:
 
ogsuv said:
Ok, So I decided to take on the rotor replacement project (they are obviously warped). I had about 2 hours in the afternoon and figured it would be a piece of cake (according to most of the posts here) well after an hour and a half I decided to abort and try again another day.....

here are my questions....any help would be appreciated..99 LC 120k

1)What clips, seals, etc.... should I order and replace as I am doing this?

2)Do I unbolt the whole caliper? or just the bolts to take the front half off, since it is a 2 piece design?

3)I never did get the hub off, I loosened all the front bolts, and attempted to whack it with a brass drift so cone washers pop out and release cover? is this not right? is there a sweet spot to whack it?

I did a birf repack on my 95 LC over a year ago, but kind of forgot some of the tricks, although I do have all the tools suggested to do it. Most of the posts I read said it was a piece of cake, only one seemed to be more realistic, saying 6 hours the first time and 3.5 the second. Keep in mind I will be repeating step #6 often.

thank you,

Scott:beer:
Click to expand...



Do you have the FSM? If not PM me with your e-mail address & I'll send the scanned pages...it should help. FYI: I am about 1-month from doing mine...
 
I have been trying to upload the Adobe file on that for 15 minutes, send an email and I'll send it to you directly!

Scott
 
I'm there too. I've been staring at my new rotors on the shelf for over 6 months now, and have been hesitant to jump in, the chilton manual I have is not real detailed, could you post the pdf, or also email them to me?

thanks, Mike
 
Its fairly easy ...

Once you get the wheel off- you need to take the calipers off - 17mm on the back side. You will need 14mm to take the hub off - a brass drift works well - loosen the nuts but don't take it off - so the cone washers stays put when you whack it. I usually back the nut off until it is flush with the bolt - that is where I whack it (more surface area). Once you get all the cone washers off - you will need to remove the c-clip that is holding the hub. Pull that off then you will have access to the that big bolt that holds the bearings in place and the star washer. Once you get all that stuff off - you will need an impact wrench to pop off the the bolts that holds the rotor and hub together.

This is a good time to check bearings - repack or replace - put everything back together - when you get to the cone washers again, I put anti-seize compound on them to make it a little easier to take off next time - there will be a next time - when you have to service your CV's or if you ever put a locker on - all that stuff has to come back off :grinpimp:


The FSM will help a lot especially on tightening the bearings back up. :crybaby:
 
YIKES!

You have to take the hub off to replace a rotor? Ouch. I just replaced out rotors on our Yukon and was done in about 30 minutes.
 
swport@msn.com I'll take any kind of pages, etc... you have, I would definitely appreciate it.

Anybody have a parts list to have on hand prior to the start of this? I probably can't live without my truck for more than a weekend.

Would you guys think the bearings would need replacing or just repacking after 120k or is it a case by case deal.

Yeah, I wish it was a little easier, but no way I am paying a dealership to do something I know I can do myself.

thanks for all the input and help guys.
 
Ditto, thanks for the post. Good to have clear instructions how they bolt together.

As aggressive as it seems, I have tried the fast break-in method on other cars & it works great. The pads & rotors last longer with less wear and are less likely to warp. They also run cooler and are less likely to squeal.
 
ogsuv said:
swport@msn.com I'll take any kind of pages, etc... you have, I would definitely appreciate it.

Anybody have a parts list to have on hand prior to the start of this? I probably can't live without my truck for more than a weekend.

Would you guys think the bearings would need replacing or just repacking after 120k or is it a case by case deal.

Yeah, I wish it was a little easier, but no way I am paying a dealership to do something I know I can do myself.

thanks for all the input and help guys.
Click to expand...

I'd call Cruiserdan for all the parts. Geniune Toyota is really the only way to go for axle seals, and Dan will know what you need and give you a good price in the process.

If you are just re-packing wheel bearings and maybe changing the rotors, it should take no more than one afternoon. Maybe 5 hours if you've never done anything like this before.

I'll be doing this on the LX for the first time this weekend, but have done it on my 80 two or three times. From the hub out, they are pretty much the same.

With that in mind, you can look at all the "birfield" tech articles in the mud tech section to see some pictures and get an idea of what the job entails.
 
donco said:
Ditto, thanks for the post. Good to have clear instructions how they bolt together.

As aggressive as it seems, I have tried the fast break-in method on other cars & it works great. The pads & rotors last longer with less wear and are less likely to warp. They also run cooler and are less likely to squeal.
Click to expand...

No problem.
 
dude. you are the man.

awesome pics and instructions.

I see now, I was definitely whacking in the wrong place.

I should have time for a lot more #6's now.

Scott:)
 
One thing...make sure each 17mm bolt (that holds the caliper on) has a plate washer. Mine was missing all four. A friend of mine w/ a '01 who's never had his bearings serviced took a snapshot of the back side of his calipers, also missing all washers. The FSM clearly shows the washers. They were special order everywhere local, but CDan saved the day and only had 4 in stock on a Friday afternoon going into a holiday weekend, so I had them shipped overnight to finish my brake job.

If you don't have one, get snap rings pliers (the ones from Sears w/ the red handles and knurled flat faces). They make removing the C-clips a snap! Off the top of my head, you will need these tools:

-17mm deep socket
-12mm socket
-Flat head screwdriver
-heavy hammer
-thick brass drift (at least 1/2")
-54mm socket SST
-spring scale
-14mm socket
-snap ring pliers
-torque wrenches
-bearing packer (not required, but nice)
-MP grease

Parts: drive flange gaskets (2), lock washers (2). If you do the inner bearings, inner oil seals (2). PS: I don't think you have to torque the 12mm bolt that attaches the brake hose to the A-arm bracket to the 25 ft-lbs or so. One of my bolts snapped, so I had to drill out the bolt and replaced both sides w/ new 8x1.25 bolts. Unfortunately, I could only get ones w/ 13mm heads.
 
I appreciate your quick response.

I have all the tools you mention especially a pair of snap ring pliers. Made changing the brakes on my FJ a snap. Except for the spring scale. It boggles my mind. I understand it has to do with bearing preload.

Can you tell me a little more? If I just push some more grease into the bearing assuming it's visible do I still need to worry about the scale? Can I skip the bearing all together and just get to where I can remove and replace the rotor with a new one?
 
bump
 
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