Front brake pad install question (searched) (1 Viewer)

[Hosehumper]

I know they can be changed without removing the caliper, but how easily do the pistons compress to make room for the new pads, and what did you use to compress them? Mine seem to be difficult to push in and I'm afraid to put too much pressure for fear of damaging the rotor (and yes, I removed the master cylinder cap and removed some fluid). Thanks.

 

[elmariachi]

I know they can be changed without removing the caliper, but how easily do the pistons compress to make room for the new pads, and what did you use to compress them? Mine seem to be difficult to push in and I'm afraid to put too much pressure for fear of damaging the rotor (and yes, I removed the master cylinder cap and removed some fluid). Thanks.

Its hard to describe, but you can use a medium sized screwdriver and leverage against the edge of the pad backing to pry them away from the rotor. Be careful to work the pad and not the rotor. Once you get its started you can pry the pads back on both sides enough to get something bigger in there. I have a piece of rubber coated strap steel that used to be the handle on a bearing puller. I just work that slowly in between the pad surface and the rotor and that pushes the pistons back enough to slide the old ones out and new ones in without hurting the rotor. I always bleed my brakes, but that's optional with some guys I guess.

Jim

 

[OGBeno]

It's a real tight squeeze (especially with the 100 series pads, if those are what you're using), but I used a solid metal ruler that I had sitting around that squeezed right in to hold the pistons back and I just wiggled the things in. They were literally resting ontop of the rotors when the pistons went back to their normal compression. But after breaking them in, they worked fine (even better than the stock 80 OEM pads).

Good luck.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[Junk]

Prybar. But if you are having that much issue compressing them, then you may want to remove them and inspect them. Were the pads worn evenly on both sides?

 

[Hosehumper]

The pads were worn evenly. In fact, they were practically new. I felt the need to replace them (80 series pads)because after having the front axles serviced, I discovered the pads were extremely saturated with gear oil...yuck.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

You must remove the lid from the master cylinder or crack the bleeder valve on the caliper so that the fluid has somewhere to go. Technically it's ideal to crack the bleeder valve so that the fluid isn't forced backwards through the ABS pump which I've read on here is a bad thing, but I just pop the top on the MC and haven't had any problems yet...

I used a BIG flatheaded screwdriver and a smaller screwdriver. I slide the small screwdriver in from the side of the caliper and let it rest against the rotor. Then I pry against that with the big screwdriver. I found that if I just pryed against the rotor it was difficult to push they pistons in because they would get the slightest bit cocked and resist. By using the second screwdriver I can pull on both screwdrivers at the same time and keep the force on the piston perfectly parallel to it's path of motion. I have a feeling this isn't making any sense and I have no idea how I would take a picture of such a thing... LOL Oh well, it's really not that hard, just pry on it with something and do your best not to pry on one side of the piston or the other...

Ary

 

[ogsuv]

The caliper comes off so easy, I never really thought to not remove it.

With the caliper off, a cheap C clamp compresses the piston with ease.

 

[T Y L E R]

I just grabbed the biggest set of pliers that Poser had in the shop , and squeezed the hell out of them . Pushed in easily ... 4.6 seconds effort


TY

 

[NorCalDoug]

I use a small section of 3/4" x 3" board and a large C clamp or two. Tyler's plier method would work too. I used to use the handle of my BFH, but it was getting marred by the rotor.