Front Brake Line/Caliper torque Spec Qs (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ewillis

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 11, 2013
Threads
164
Messages
2,772
Location
Dante's Inferno, CA
This project took waaaaay longer than anticipated, but they do look purdy!
1906049
Anyone know the torque spec for these caliper bolts?
1906051
Also...I can't get the damn brake line off. Is there a trick? Trying to turn this bolt, but it's friggin tight and starting to strip. Any tips?
1906060
 
Main bolts to hub is 90ftlbs, I use a flare wrench on brake lines, can spay your fav liquid wrench on it let soak for few, or tighten just hair and then try to loosen
 
Main bolts to hub is 90ftlbs, I use a flare wrench on brake lines, can spay your fav liquid wrench on it let soak for few, or tighten just hair and then try to loosen
Got the main bolts to 90#, it's the other bolts I can't find the specs for. Flare wrench? Do they sell these at Harbor Freight?
Edit: I see they do sell flare wrench sets at HF...off to the store!
 
There is no torque specification for them because Toyota does not provide parts/service support.

They do not recommend splitting the caliper halves as it is very difficult to reseal them correctly.
 
Got the main bolts to 90#, it's the other bolts I can't find the specs for. Flare wrench? Do they sell these at Harbor Freight?
Edit: I see they do sell flare wrench sets at HF...off to the store!
Yo flock of seagulls, you should never need to torque those caliper assembly bolts. Did you remove them? Based on their size, I would torque them to 40lb/ft and call it good.
 
Yo flock of seagulls, you should never need to torque those caliper assembly bolts. Did you remove them? Based on their size, I would torque them to 40lb/ft and call it good.
Thanks Ponchy! They were removed to cerakote the calipers. I just snugged em up pretty good.
 
you may also want to use some heat on the brake fitting to help loosen it. personally I wouldn't go with the harbor freight line wrenches, id spent the extra money and get something name brand
 
Thanks all! HF flare wrench and some liquid wrench got it done! Now for step 6! 🍺
 
Critical connections should not have any debris, including paint, so wheel, caliper, etc, mounting surfaces should have the paint removed, be clean and naked.
 
Ok...fluid leaking out of HP fitting. Is 22 ft lbs correct? I did install new copper washers, but had to remove and reinstall...does this mean I need to install new ones again?
1911974
 
Ok...fluid leaking out of HP fitting. Is 22 ft lbs correct? I did install new copper washers, but had to remove and reinstall...does this mean I need to install new ones again? View attachment 1911974


YES!!! All compression fittings washers or olives are one time use only!

Btw what rotors are those? Black nickel placed?
 
YES!!! All compression fittings washers or olives are one time use only!

Btw what rotors are those? Black nickel placed?
I just torqued it to 30...gave it a few test drives...seams to be holding. EBC rotors
 
Ok...fluid leaking out of HP fitting. Is 22 ft lbs correct? I did install new copper washers, but had to remove and reinstall...does this mean I need to install new ones again?

ive found that sometimes the replacement crush washers with aftermarket washers are too hard to seal and generally suck, there pretty much flat washers with a skim of copper on them. id stick to the factory crush washers as they are softer and seal better.
 
ive found that sometimes the replacement crush washers with aftermarket washers are too hard to seal and generally suck, there pretty much flat washers with a skim of copper on them. id stick to the factory crush washers as they are softer and seal better.
All OEM lines, crush washers and banjo bolt. 22 ft lbs just didn't hold on either side. Upped to 30 ft# and seems good there.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom