Front axle/diff/driveshaft grinding (1 Viewer)

[rowdyrabbit]

Stopped at an intersection tonight, and when I went to take off, had a horrible grinding noise and it was barely moving. Pulled over in a lot and had had my pops pull me back to his house not far away. When I put it in gear, it grinds. Forward and reverse. Neutral and park, no sound. It is a constant grind in gear when idling. I put transfer case in neutral to pull it, and no noise then.

No indication of problems at all recently. I have noticed a smell like grease on the tailpipe, but it is always subject to smell like grease and oil. I don't drive it that often anymore. Kicker is, I've been driving it since Friday when my F250 went down with a high pressure oil leak. And now this one.

Rebuilt front axle a little over a year ago. Only trouble with that and since is popping birfs. I swapped them when I rebuilt, but they had apparently been swapped before.

I didn't have time to check it out tonight, as I had to get the kiddos home and in bed. What would be the first things to check? I'm hoping it's something I can pull the axle to drive until I get the pickup back going.

Thank in advance for the help. I'm going back to my searching now.

 

[-Spike-]

Search drive flanges, relatively cheap fix.

 

[rowdyrabbit]

Check them by jacking it up and spinning the wheel?

The sound sounded like it was coming more from the middle or underneath, but I didn't have any time to look at it tonight.

It's a 93, by the way. Forgot that in the first post.

 

[ppc]

Or by locking the center diff by shifting into low or pressing the CDL switch if you have one then try shifting into gear. If no grinding then it confirms the bad drive flanges.

 

[Malleus]

I had this problem with my first 80 (a triple locked '94). It was the transmission. I hope that's not your problem.

 

[bloc]

93 could have the thinner drive flanges.

Any attempt to jack up and spin one tire or use CDL doesn’t isolate the problem to the flanges.. only way to do that is pop off the dust cover of each one on the front hub and see what’s going on.

All of the drive flange talk is moot (usually) if you have the later model thick flanges.. there are pics posted online to compare if you aren’t sure what you have.

 

[rowdyrabbit]

Put it in low range and it still makes the same noise. It’s possible that my CDL did not engage, though. The light doesn’t come on, but it very well may be burned out. I do not have a CDL switch.

It’s a low rumble grind. Doesn’t make the sound like gears jamming. It sounds more like it’s coming from the driveshaft or differential. Somewhere low and in the center as opposed to out near the wheels.

I can’t see anything obvious underneath. I’ll have help in a bit to put it in gear while I watch. I’ll also pop the dust covers off then.

What are the main things to look for and check?

Thanks

 

[landtank]

If it's the drive flanges and the early style I have 2 brand new ones listed in the for sale section. Just an fyi

 

[rowdyrabbit]

When holding the brakes and putting it in gear the front driveshaft tries to spin. It’s jumpy, but it spins. Popping dust covers off now.

 

[bloc]

Did all 93s get the viscous coupler?

If either driveshaft spins while stationary it’s not the tcase or transmission. Very unlikely to have the rear shaft spinning while stationary fwiw.. that half of the system is very stout.

If the front shaft spins it could be the diff, an inner axle shaft, a birf, an outer shaft, or a drive flange. The early model thinner drive flanges are well known to strip out, and the shuddering could be communicating back up the driveline to other parts with slack making the sound come from that area. Maybe.

Like I said popping the dust covers would be one of the first things I do. Not invasive, doesn’t even need to jack vehicle up and remove a wheel.

It is entirely possible that it’s something different. As said, if shafts are spinning while the grinding is happening you know to look downstream of the transmission and tcase

 

[rowdyrabbit]

I popped the covers off. Left is greasy and looks normal. Teeth could be worn. Right side is completely dry with powdered rust in the dust cap. It looks more worn than the left.

So I’m understanding right, hold the brake and put it in gear. The center should spin independently of the wheel if the drive flanges are chewed up? Or not necessarily?

 

[rowdyrabbit]

Right side spins, left does not.

Do both sides need to be replaced at the same time? I know ideally birfs should be replaced, too, since they are clicking. But, with two trucks down right now, that just ain’t happening.

Also, what would cause that side to be dry and rusty?

 

[bloc]

Yes do both. Be warned getting the cone washers loose to remove the old drive flange can be a challenge.. don’t destroy either the stud or the cone washer.

You won’t know how bad the birf is until you get the flange off.. since it is harder steel it could be fine but for now I’d just have flanges on hand and start tearing it apart.

No clue why one would be dry but that most likely contributed to the wear.

 

[rowdyrabbit]

I’ve had it all apart before, so I remember what I need to do. I was able to find the flanges local, so I’ll be able to get them on in the morning.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

[BILT4ME]

If the drive plate is worn, so is the splined axle shaft. Make sure you inspect it well.

Yes, it should all be well-lubed inside there on reassembly.

 

[cruzer971]

If you need to use the vehicle, could you pull the front drive shaft and lock the center diff? Just use it as a rear wheel drive for now. That is assuming it is just the drive flange!

 

[tacosupreme]

If you need to use the vehicle, could you pull the front drive shaft and lock the center diff? Just use it as a rear wheel drive for now. That is assuming it is just the drive flange!

Yes, but he doesn't have a CDL switch.

 

[FJP971]

Yes, but he doesn't have a CDL switch.

Easy fix. He can unplug his hazard switch and use it for the CDL.

 

[-Spike-]

Easy fix. He can unplug his hazard switch and use it for the CDL.

Doesn't sound like the CDL is functional. If it was, just put it in low range, get it to lock, and then pull the locker fuse, shift back to high.

 

[FJP971]

Doesn't sound like the CDL is functional. If it was, just put it in low range, get it to lock, and then pull the locker fuse, shift back to high.

I forgot about that option. Just referring to his comment about not having a CDL switch.